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Well I just picked up the new Revell 48' coupe and thought a cut at the trunk and cowl and badda boom badda bing instant non chop by using my old IMC kit. However one slight problem must be 1/25 45 yrs ago was smaller than 1/25 today!! So I guess I will build a chopped Revell kit and a non-chopped IMC

Pretty decent looking. Too bad in my opinion about the round tailights an proposed GM engine though! I guess I am a traditionalist Sorry for the off topic about 1:1. It would be nice to have an all new tooling kit preferably with engine!

Very Cool and I can't drive 55!

Way cool! Awesome build!

Very well done!!

Hi Steve, Are there still a fair amount of JoHan tooling still out there?

Remember on Friday nights the networks would have a show that previewed the new lineup for the new season starting that Sat. AM

Try Dean Sills at Deans Hobby Stop and he is in Michigan! or Bill @ Riders in Grand Rapids MI.

There is always emodelcars!!

At least they said London UK as London Ontario would have been closer!!

I believe it being the Fujimi kit it is a curbside. BTW Excellent build!

I like the Bugs Bunny / Roadunner shows, Batman, Superman, Justice League, X-Men, Avengers, Spiderman 60's and early 80s , Superman and Aquaman of the 60's

I would like to see the Torino and Maverick promos!

Yes it does. Also I got mine yesterday and it is kinda funny that some of the parts from both chopped and stock coupe kits were found in the Buyers Choice kit from several yrs ago.

Here is the basic criteria for IPMS Judging in the Automotive Category. Also remember that any model vying for "out of the Box needs to have the intruction sheet present with model. Automotive Basic Construction 1. Flash, sink marks, mold marks, ejector-pin marks, and similar molding flaws eliminated. 2. Seams filled if not found on the actual vehicle. (This is especially important on the car’s body. Rubberized kit tires usually also have a mold seam that must be removed.) 3. Contour errors corrected. 4. Gaps between body and chassis eliminated as applicable. 5. Detailing removed while accomplishing the above steps restored to a level consistent with the rest of the model. 6. Alignment: A. Where applicable, external items (e.g., mirrors, exhaust pipes) aligned symmetrically. B. Internal items (e.g., seats, some engine/drive components) aligned properly. C. Wheels: All wheels touching the ground and aligned properly when viewed from front or rear of the vehicle. If turned, front wheels should be aligned in the same direction. 7. Windshields and other clear areas: A. Clear and free of crazing caused by adhesives or finishing coats. B. Gaps between windshield, windows, or other clear parts eliminated where applicable. C. All clear areas scratch-, blemish-, and paint-free. Detailing 1. Parts that are thick, over-scale, or coarse should be thinned, modified, or replaced. 2. Exhausts, intakes, vents, and other objects that have openings should be opened. 3. Additional detailing added to the vehicle should be as close to scale as possible. Such items could include door-lock buttons, tire valve stems, dashboard gauge detail, fabric surfaces on interior components, etc. Aftermarket parts (photo-etched, white metal, resin, etc.) should integrate well with the basic model. Photo-etched parts that require forming should be precisely shaped, and any surfaces that require building up to a thicker cross-section should be smooth and uniform. 4. Engine and chassis detailing should be done to a level consistent with detailing on the rest of the model. 5. Working parts, if any (e.g., opening hoods or doors), should match the level of workmanship on the rest of the model. Such parts should operate realistically, and the operating mechanism(s) should be in scale if visible. Painting and finishing 1. The model’s surface, once painted, should show no signs of the construction process (glue, file, or sanding marks; fingerprints; obvious discontinuities between kit plastic and filler materials; etc.). 2. Finish should be even and smooth, unless irregularities in the actual vehicle’s finish are being duplicated. Such irregularities should be documented. A. No brush marks, lint, brush hairs, etc. B. No “orange-peel” or “eggshell” effect; no “powdering” in recessed areas. C. No random differences in sheen of finish caused by misapplication of final clear coats. 3. Paint edges that are supposed to be sharp should be sharp (no ragged edges caused by poor masking). Edges that are supposed to be soft or feathered should be in scale and without overspray. 4. Chrome parts should be correctly represented and should be just as free of surface blemishes and evidences of the construction process as the painted components. 5. Weathering: Although weathering is gaining more acceptance in the automotive ranks, especially with some trucks and certain types of racing cars (such as the Rally types), it is not standard practice. Most auto modelers build what is considered a “show” car or restored car, and because of this, weathering will be the exception rather than the rule. If present, however, weathering should show concern for scale, be in accordance with the conditions in which the real vehicle was operating, and be consistent throughout the model. 6. Decals: A. Decals should be aligned properly. This is especially important for racing subjects. B. Water-slide decals should show no evidence of silvering or bubbling of decal film. Decal film should be eliminated or hidden to make the markings appear painted o

Glad to see your back!!

I like it for the most part but personally the rear quarter windows don't work for me, if I was to build a model of it I would re-work that area but that is my opinion and what makes this hobby great!!

Yeah but those early Minnesota Vikings were beaten out by the Washington Redskins Seriously though I plan on a couple maybe graft the stock roof from an old IMC kit!

Picked mine up at LHS traded pizza from my shop for it The power of pizza!!!!!!

Very cool!!! I wish someone would bring one out with full engine detail!

We should be happy as car modelers are in general more lienient than armor or aircraft builders. As I build those also. I remember a few yrs ago a mfgr came out with a new tooled kit of a Sherman tank which had been cried for for yrs and it got bashed because the rear hull plate angle was a few degrees off. Its just BS that some can't see that a company has invested hundreds of thousands of dollars to tool up something that was lacking in a niche and get beat up for it!! We are lucky to have these companies so give them a break!! If it looks like duck, quacks like a duck call it a duck!!

Heck I thought Luke57 sent this from great hobby room in the sky! He would be proud!

Also the first incarnation of Bigfoot had most all the stock pieces as well.

I don't think most here don't use e-bay just are ranting a little and making light of some of the overboard prices and shipping charges some are wanting for kits like they had a piece of gold. I personally know how much I am willing to spend on a particular kit and if someone else wins so be it. Also there are a lot of good deals out there you just need to search and sometime items are mislabeled and you can score big.

Burt would be proud!!!!