Dpate

Is AMT the only one that does that model? It’s trash, and was hoping there was another company out there that happened to do one?

I might prep a scrap body etc and try it again see how it does without doing a heavy coat. Just got to….dig it out the trash.

It was the perfect match clear of there’s acrylic lacquer. I paid $18 for it, but I’m not blaming the product but myself. The last cost was just way too heavy I think. I guess it’s best to just do light coat after light coat 10 mins in between until it finally turns to gloss. I’m just scared to use it again, and prob would never use it over decals as it’s too hot. I’ll just stick with 2k something I’m good at, and just have someone watch my son for bout a hour while I use it. I probably should have heated the can up though as it was spitting a little hear and there, and wasn’t a fine mist. I just suck at rattle cans lol.

It was scalefinishes, but it wasn’t the paint that was the issue. It’s my own my fault though I didn’t know that dupli color was that hot. I couldn’t fix the damage it did so I had to order a body off eBay. I guess I should have kept doing light coats building it up, but I’m sticking with 2K. There is a new 2k that James selling at scalefinishes called honey clear (Like 2K without most of the harmful Chemicals) that I wanna try. Haven’t ordered it yet as I need some custom paint done, but he hasn’t answered my email in almost two weeks. I guess he still backed up with orders after the emergency situation he had to deal with.

What I accomplished today was destroying my paint job using dupli color clear. Did about 4 coats each one light to medium with 10 mins between coats. I than decided to do a heavy coat at the end, and it made dark patches in the color, and made small scratches on the hood, and the trunk, and some on each side of the body. It’s hard to explain, but looks like someone took a blade to it. I guess I went too heavy as I suck with rattle cans. So $20 down the drain cause the can going in the trash, and $10 bottle of stripper wasted, and now hours of work tryna fix all the issues it created. My gut told me not to get it as I do 2K with no issues, but I was willing to try something different cause of my son.

There’s all different types of methods to sanding in small areas etc. Here is a example in the pic. Some areas though aren’t worth trying to polish etc cause you’ll never really notice or see it, and you’re asking for burn through.

It’s the 65 impala Foose version. The glass is all separate on this one. One of the other issues with the kit was the lower radiator hose doesn’t reach where it’s suppose too. Luckily you won’t even be able to see it once everything is in. Even the upper hose is different in the kit than what the instructions show - which they show installing it wrong also. Even the air conditioner line one end suppose to fit in a hole in the radiator wall, but the hole doesn’t exist so it just hangs under the battery lol.

Very clean man ??. Not sure if it’s how the pic took, but looks like you could polish it some more or is that the look you’re going for?

No it’s spazstix. It’s been awhile since I’ve chromed anything so I think I went a tiny tiny bit heavy.

Got some chrome done today.

When I went back today they still had a lot left, and still had few others along with the caddie surfing shark. I was really hoping the body would be better, but I’m probably just gonna sand down the molding on both sides all the way around when ever I decide to get around to building it.

Picked up another one of these at Ollie’s. It’s no better than the first one with the left side being the worst. I’ll come up with an idea for the van, but least got more rims and dope tires. I outlined the issue i been talking about. That side molding it’s literally non existent on the door lol.

Ah okay I can get that at Walmarts. Thanks brotha

What kind of tacky glue? I always test fit everything just with no glue. In this case it wasn’t a fit issue, but an angle issue lol. But now all that’s left is the steering wheel to get installed, and the shifter, and with that the interior will be 100% done. Once I’m done with this car for my friend I got another one lined up and with a plan. Just got to dig it out the stash.

True, and based on how the instructions are I doubt I’m the only one that’s made this mistake lol. It’s hard to explain how it’s suppose to be positioned - it’s a feel thing while making sure it’s angled properly. It’s just bad engineering, but this is why I prefer all in one dashboards instead of multiple parts. But it does make detailing a lot easier depending on the kit.

What’s the quality? How’s the details? Plan on getting one of these myself.

Thanks, and lol no dremel needed thankfully. I ended up getting it solved, but the top of the dashboard is a weird one. It can look right in two different ways, and that’s what was messing me up. Sits nice in low now, and lines up with the firewall, and looks like it’s suppose to in the front still.

True, it’s just dealing with an old age molded kit is just testing my patience. Even though it’s decent for its age it has its moments.

You’re right as that was money wasted. I did do the test with it using CA glue, and epoxy. The epoxy did nothing, as I could still pull it up if I wanted. The CA glue did better, but I could still pull it up with little force. I think best will be adding CA along the edges along with kicker so if it ever did come up down the road decades later it would be in the middle. Maybe even making the surface rough, and lay down CA nice n smooth, and then the carpet along with burnishing it down really good should do the job. As my test was done on a smooth surface, and gorilla glue might do better than the CA glue I’m using.

All is good I figured out what I was doing wrong because I’ am an idiot. It’s just the way the underside is made I thought it was suppose to sit up more, but it actually lays down a bit. I be glad when I’m done with this car.

So everything going just fine, and decided to do a test fit of the whole interior to the body. This is where the issue comes in. The top of the dash board seems too long no matter how good I fit it, and it sits underneath the cowl causing it to raise up. What in the world do I do to solve this issue so it’ll fit properly with it on? Because with it off it fits perfectly fine.

Looks good man you’d almost think it was BMF at first glance. I prefer BMF though, and I got this marker just for touching up kit chrome if it’s to be used. Really good match on the kit chrome.

I still have to test it with CA glue might even test with epoxy. Do it right so nothing oozes out, and it’ll never lift lol. I just could never get the embossing powder to work, and always had clumps etc no matter how smooth I laid down the glue. I had about $30 in ranger embossing powder I threw away lol.

If you had some scribe tape that would help. Basic tape would be too thin, but would help from scratches if you slip. Curve tape from Tamiya might work too as it’s little thicker than regular tape, and can do corners good. AKs curve tape has a little thickness to it, and works great around curves. If you have to just piece up the tape around the curve making sure the curve still showing. I’ve done that with scribe tape, and worked good.