Dpate

I just use my air brush with PSI up to 35 to air dry parts, after a good dawn bath. Works every time if you got an airbrush setup.

I know a modeler that lays napkins down in his and spray it down with water.

Good kits. The international is off the new tooling. They sell for $60+ , but I’m guessing you don’t like trucks, and trailers?

Grab the US mail, and all the internationals, and trailers u can.

AMT 64 Dodge 330 AMT 62 Bel air Without being more specific that’s what I could find on scalemates.

He builds like that in the videos because he gets so many kits from sponsors. He does quick builds to show how the finished model looks. Lot of modelers do paint parts on sprues, and then cut them off and touch up. It just boils down to preference, and what works for you. There’s loads of different methods of painting parts too like you’ve seen in the pics here. Alligator clips, blue tack, pop sickle sticks with double sided tape or tack etc etc. There is no right or wrong way - just one way you get a better finish, and the other way no so much.

I’ve used the scotch delicate surface tape before on walls, and it’s good stuff even better than the blue painters tape. It is similar to Tamiya as Tamiya is a washi tape too. I always order my Tamiya tape from plaza Japan though when I do big orders. Tamiya tape there is like .89cent up to $2. I have enough Tamiya tape to last like 2 years lol.

Think I paid bout $18 for mine off eBay the time I got it

Tamiya tape of all sizes all day. Also like was previously said never spray wet right onto the edges. That’s just asking for bleed through.

Liquid cement is thin cause it’s not made to use like regular CA glue even though folks use it that way. Sounds like you’re wanting medium CA? That’s in the middle of thin, and thick.

No that’s an actual clear coat . From my understanding Alclads clear base isn’t a clear coat, but more a primer coat just clear.

I’m going out of town again tomorrow so I’m gonna swing by the local hobby lobby’s. They haven’t cut down their sections, but haven’t had anything new last time I went. I avoid Michaels cause it’s one little 4 foot section with nothing new. Then there’s over priced hobby town, and two super overpriced mom n pop shops. There’s one I usually avoid cause they watch you like you’re going to steal their kits.

Idea of what? Filtering won’t affect anything besides catching stuff you don’t want getting in your brush, and onto your model. I think you’re over thinking it a little bit lol.

Never had issues with it using metallics. I’m not sure what micron it is, but it’s probably closer to 190 that most use with the paper filters.

Yeah they’re little pricey for what they are, but worth the money.

This is the liquid mask I always use when needed, but it’s too pricey for big jobs.

Tank holds air

Yeah I filter my paint, but not every single time. Usually if it has crustys on the rim or been while since using it, and can’t get a perfect mix etc. I use to use the 90 micron filters the white paper ones with blue filter good for large mix, but mainly use the one in the pic by AK. Fits in brush cup, and can just pour paint straight into it enough to fill the cup. Easy to clean, and works great.

Id try foil first, but if you’re gonna mask it? Id recommend starting with Tamiya 1mm tape for the edges n corners, and then mask off the rest with a bigger size. If you take your time you’re looking at bout 30+ mins. 1mm along the grill molding where the black line is, and then 6mm or so overlapping the 1mm a little.

So not a clear coat, but still a gloss like gloss black base 305? Hmm seems like it could have its uses. Thanks.

I know Alclad has there klear coats, but never seen clear base. Apparently it’s a honey clear base, but what exactly is its purpose? Is it just another clear coat?

https://www.waveformlighting.com/high-cri-led This link explains everything CRI.

My Walmart recently got the same display.

The model air will be more metallic than the metal color. It’s like how Mr hobby came out with there super metallic 2 version that’s better than there older version. Much finer pigment, much better realistic finish. Just like Tamiyas X-XF line up of metallics the flakes are bigger, and not as fine as there LP line up. I replaced all my X-XF metallics with there LP versions there that much better. But I would do what NOBLNG said , and test it on a spoon or scrap piece, and than compare it next to your model.

I own both, but can’t make a comparison right now. I will say though their metal color is the better version. I’m sure you’re asking because of price difference no? Their metal line up is there new version with finer pigments.