Dpate

Liquid cement is thin cause it’s not made to use like regular CA glue even though folks use it that way. Sounds like you’re wanting medium CA? That’s in the middle of thin, and thick.

No that’s an actual clear coat . From my understanding Alclads clear base isn’t a clear coat, but more a primer coat just clear.

I’m going out of town again tomorrow so I’m gonna swing by the local hobby lobby’s. They haven’t cut down their sections, but haven’t had anything new last time I went. I avoid Michaels cause it’s one little 4 foot section with nothing new. Then there’s over priced hobby town, and two super overpriced mom n pop shops. There’s one I usually avoid cause they watch you like you’re going to steal their kits.

Idea of what? Filtering won’t affect anything besides catching stuff you don’t want getting in your brush, and onto your model. I think you’re over thinking it a little bit lol.

Never had issues with it using metallics. I’m not sure what micron it is, but it’s probably closer to 190 that most use with the paper filters.

Yeah they’re little pricey for what they are, but worth the money.

This is the liquid mask I always use when needed, but it’s too pricey for big jobs.

Tank holds air

Yeah I filter my paint, but not every single time. Usually if it has crustys on the rim or been while since using it, and can’t get a perfect mix etc. I use to use the 90 micron filters the white paper ones with blue filter good for large mix, but mainly use the one in the pic by AK. Fits in brush cup, and can just pour paint straight into it enough to fill the cup. Easy to clean, and works great.

Id try foil first, but if you’re gonna mask it? Id recommend starting with Tamiya 1mm tape for the edges n corners, and then mask off the rest with a bigger size. If you take your time you’re looking at bout 30+ mins. 1mm along the grill molding where the black line is, and then 6mm or so overlapping the 1mm a little.

So not a clear coat, but still a gloss like gloss black base 305? Hmm seems like it could have its uses. Thanks.

I know Alclad has there klear coats, but never seen clear base. Apparently it’s a honey clear base, but what exactly is its purpose? Is it just another clear coat?

https://www.waveformlighting.com/high-cri-led This link explains everything CRI.

My Walmart recently got the same display.

The model air will be more metallic than the metal color. It’s like how Mr hobby came out with there super metallic 2 version that’s better than there older version. Much finer pigment, much better realistic finish. Just like Tamiyas X-XF line up of metallics the flakes are bigger, and not as fine as there LP line up. I replaced all my X-XF metallics with there LP versions there that much better. But I would do what NOBLNG said , and test it on a spoon or scrap piece, and than compare it next to your model.

I own both, but can’t make a comparison right now. I will say though their metal color is the better version. I’m sure you’re asking because of price difference no? Their metal line up is there new version with finer pigments.

PNF 404

Besides some having 2 fans instead of one, and more lighting, and style. That’s bout the only improvement you’ll see on these type of booths all in one booths. I think they all use 3K rpm PC fans or industrial pc fans as exhausts. I own one when I first got in the hobby, but quickly upgraded by building my own using vent works stuff, and than upgraded again to the 36” peace keeper deluxe by pace. It’s the last booth I’ll ever need for what we do.

It’s the typical Chinese booth you can get from Amazon or eBay for round. $99 or so. Different styles, but there bout all the same, and function the same. The one he got is one of the cleaner ones that can fold up.

I would love to see my favorite super sports car done by Tamiya. The one and only Bugatti Chiron.

These are the bulbs I use in my paint booth. They are $30 per bulb, but that’s for the 100w equivalent, and 1600 lumens. 6500k 95cri 80+R9. If you wanna learn about lighting this is the place. Kelvin isn’t the only thing important with lighting. Also lot of bulbs especially at Walmart might claim there 95cri, but they’re not. Like my work bench light I have it claims 95 cri, but it’s not let alone even true 6500K. Think I paid bout $70 for it at the time, but I paid almost that for 2 bulbs lol. One day it won’t just be my paint booth that has good lighting it’ll be the whole hobby room. T8 light fixtures above the work bench etc. https://store.waveformlighting.com/products/centric-daylight-full-spectrum-flicker-free-a21-15w-led-bulb

It’s nice after after a good polish. I just suck with rattle cans, and didn’t bother to decant it to practice with it. There’s a lot of users on here that use it with great results.

1K will work over decals, but you’ll need to do a very light mist coat or two over them. Dupli colors perfect match clear is hot stuff. If I were you I’d test it on a scrap body or something using a decal from the same set you aren’t gonna use. If you aren’t careful with it it’ll mess up more than just a decal. I’m a 2K guy, but wanted to try 1K myself, and messed up whole paint job. I haven’t decanted it yet like I should have done in the first place. Also 1K is soft stuff so don’t press too hard or you’ll leave a print.

lol what’s the needle size? What type of brush u got? Thinning it like I said above will help from not spraying properly. A expensive brush won’t make u a better painter. What kind of compressor you got to where u can’t adjust PSI?

How did your primer lay down? What PSI are you spraying at? You could also try 1:1.5 paint to thinner. Did you clean the plastic good? Did you not test before committing to the kit?