Dpate

These came in today. With shipping $62 so good deal to me.

So sprayed the revell chrome and it’s very good. 30 mins baking and it’s pretty durable no finger prints etc. the cab came out little hazy cause needed another pass, but I wasn’t trying to waste it, and wasn’t sure how far to push it. The next piece looks how it should cause I did the proper amount of passes. Works good out the can, but probably recommended warming it up. Id recommend decanting it though to save money as mines is off gazing as we speak bubbling like a volcano lol. I’m letting bake more to test durability.

Yeah that’s how I always did Alclad. Buff off the dust, and the shine would come through.

Yeah I could never get there backer to gloss up like Alclads. But this link this guy shows results from over spraying spaz stix to where it looks like frosted silver, and polishing it out. https://www.diecastxchange.com/threads/spaz-stix-chrome-paint-this-stuff-is-amazing.219961/

This is spaz stix on my first build that isn’t even finished. I have done spaz stix much better than this, but those don’t exist anymore. Next time I use it I’ll have better pics. This is of kustom service chrome

Spaz stix aerosol version is trash as is there black base. Spaz stix chrome airbrush version is great. So I’m not sure what to tell you or how to explain.

If you decant into a good jar it’ll last just as long as any other paint. Only thing that would happen is over time solvent could evaporate, so you’d have to add little more. I use Tamiya paint mixing jars 46ML as they’re fantastic.

Revels chrome is acrylic lacquer. I got a can myself, but haven’t tried it yet. From everything I’ve seen of it looks like the real deal, and you have to apply it kinda heavy unlike how you do with Alclad etc. Probably going to decant mine so I don’t waste a ton of it, but closet I’ve seen to it almost as good is spazz Stix chrome(air brush) version.

I would never use painters tape regardless who’s been successful with it. Use it for your house walls if you can’t free hand anything. My main tapes are Tamiya along with their curve tape, and AK has curved tape now that is blue also works great. Did you de tack the tape? I always de tack Tamiya every time I use it.

Actually just ordered one of those new for $36 lol

Can’t help with your question, but I had to comment cause supernatural is my favorite tv show ever. Sam from the show the actor(forget his name) got to keep the car when the show ended.

When I spray 2K I suit up. Lot of PPE, and face mask from 3M can’t smell anything. Good high end paint booth helps too. I keeps that running, and air purifier running cause it has a carbon filter that get rid of odors. I’ve been tempted to try dupli colors clear out, and I’ve heard Mr hobby’s clear is good too.

Man I’ve been running deck wise a Pioneer 80PRS for a very long time. Best single din you can get for around $300 insane tuning capabilities for what it’s worth, and super clean max volume 61 with no clipping. I’ve seen decks that would clip mid way before getting to max volume. I can almost go full tilt with my set up, but clips at 61 so 60 is the max with everything else hooked up. Only con I have for the deck is it doesn’t play .flac files via USB only .wav files. Other than that it’s a single din I always recommend to anyone wanting a top notch single din - unless you got $1200 for its big brother lol.

Got more of the interior done.

Heard n seen good things of the revell chrome so had to try it was $54 cause of shipping. Got the caliper at harbor freight cause they’re very useful in the hobby.

Let it sit in dawn for a few and I bet it’ll get whiter lol

Yeah bobs gold+ can be used on everything with no fog. I generally have about 5 different glues at a time, but one isn’t actually a glue but epoxy 5 min. Good info though for folks that don’t have different types of glue.

Testors dull coat will work too if you don’t have anything else.

Well Enamels will gloss better than other paint will just the way they work, because you don’t have to wait between costs just keep it going until done. The hardener I’m sure could be used in other enamels, and I’ve seen 2K hardener be used in MCW with no issue. You can also thin MCW enamels with Mr hobby’s leveling thinner. He was using MCW hardener, but think he switched to the 2k hardener because it’s cheaper in the long run.

Being an airbrush user what I would have did in that situation would have been as follows. I would have taped around the area making like a big # with only the burn through showing. Than slowly built up coat after coat light n slow, and then blend in with 3K & 5K grit. Sure you can do it with aerosol just good distance, and lightly mist it on building up coat after coat. Just a suggestion for if it happens again. This isn’t my idea, but another user on here showed how to do this with fixing a burn through on clear coat.

Got this door panel done on the 65 Chevy impala foose. If it was better detailed the foiling would have been easier, but it is what it is. The first pic is the look I’m going for.

Make sure your PE is clean. I use lacquer thinner to clean, but dawn n water would work too. Depending on the PE, and where it’s gonna go you really wouldn’t have to worry about using a primer or metal primer that Mr hobby has or Tamiya. But if using primer make sure light thin coats, and then paint. Also make sure to bend etc any part that needs it before priming or painting. Basically if the PE is gonna be somewhere where it’ll never get touched like gas, brake pedal you could skip the primer, and just paint as normal. If you wanna prime the part example gas, brake petal part? Than clean PE, and attach it - let the glue cure, and then prime with whatever preferably mr surfacer, and then paint.

Hasn’t happen to me with the hobby yet, but has happened with gaming. Just didn’t wanna play anything, and everything I tried to play I just got bored. So I took a long hiatus, and when I came back to it - it felt fresh again.

Tamiya makes a great brush for dusting. Works really good with thin hairs that won’t damage even the smallest detail on a model. It’s pricey if you get it in the states, but it’s worth the money though and has large end and small end. I got 2 of them for $10 each from plaza Japan when I did my last big order.

Only enamels I use is Tamiya X & XF line for detail work etc. once you get into the hobby good, wanna use enamels id recommend MCW along with their hardner. I’m strictly auto lacquers for 90% of anything model related. MCW enamels can gloss up really nice, and be sanded, and compounded, and polished up really nice without a separate clear coat.