Dpate

I've seen this done before, but if you aren't careful the tape can pull up the BMF as you pull the tape up. Did you do one long strip of BMF? Cause i would of did 5 pieces than 4 cuts for body lines. Good tip though.

Lacquer doesn't cure like enamel does, but it "flashes" where enamel cures created a hard shell. If you use a tamiya stand to hold the body and use dehydrator either use tape to hold the stand to the inside body or be sure the springs aren't tight against the body because I've seen, and heard of bodies expanding because of that. I use a small pvc pipe with tak to hold my bodies for painting and putting inside dehydrator. I do 115 degree's and I've never had any issues with plastic melting etc as styrene has a higher melting point, and takes lacquer less than 30 mins to be ready for whatever. I can sand primer within 30 mins, but a hour doesn't hurt & 2K clear cures in about 4 hours @ 115-120 degrees. If the paint is try to the touch you can put it on the base if you want, and i use auto motive paints for my car bodies, and there ready for clear coat within 30 mins. I'm not sure about enamel, but that depends on what brand you use, but you could always test on a spoon for drying times. Tamiya, scalefinishes, zero paint, etc 115-120 degrees 30 mins and there ready for clear coat, actually could be less i just always go 30 mins. You can go longer, but you wont need a half or full day of drying even at 110 degree's.

Little bit, but Pepsi & tax money lol. The stuff I recently posted that came in before this, and with this stuff it was close to bout a $1,000. Surprisingly though some of that was pricey shipping from plaza Japan, and Hiroboy. The plaza Japan order was about $680 that’s with like $170+ shipping which compared to buying all this out the states you’d spend way more money. Lot of the Tamiya tape was .89cents, and that 1:6 scale bike was like $50 which sales for $100+ everywhere else. The scale hobbyist order wasn’t suppose to happen, but I thought I had the GT Supra - so that’s why I didn’t get it from plaza. That’s why it’s shrink wrapped in plastic - because no kit will come from plaza Japan wrapped but, $22 kit ended up costing $33 + shipping so I just added little more to it to justify the shipping from scale hobbyist. I’m pretty much done buying kits for now besides the new Tamiya super car coming out in April. But life has hit me hard at the same time with me recently getting a eviction notice because of my now ex etc etc. So I got to get all that sorted out, and with my soon to be 4 year old son.

Plaza Japan order, scale hobbyist, hiroboy. Lots of cool stuff Had no idea the 1:6 scale would be that big.

Well you can get good with a airbrush, but mastering it will take a very long time. If you want to "master" a brush you need to master a double action because a single action is just a better version of a spray bomb. If you're wanting true acrylics than Tamiya is a hybrid and mr color is a lacquer, and I'll answer your 3 questions now. 1. Tamiya & Mr color thin with Mr leveling thinner and for acrylics a dedicated acrylic thinner or water. Mr leveling thinner will work on any hybrid or lacquer paint, and probably the best thinner on the market related to the hobby. 2.This depends on needle size and air pressure, but for tamiya and mr color 1:1 or 1:2. 3.Again depends on needle size, but i do know tamiya & mr color works just fine between 15-20 PSI .5 iwata eclispe. You might need higher PSI for the paasche as i only use double action brushes only. If you want the best finish for tamiya and mr color use mr leveling thinner if you're able to get it. I don't really use Tamiya X-XF series anymore I'm moving towards there LP series which is straight lacquer. There much better especially the metallic ones. If you want the acrylic version of Mr.Color check out there aqueous line up as Mr.color is lacquer.

Yes that's the one.

I don't really have one as of yet, but i know a lot of folks the 1970 dodge charger R/T by revell will be a holy grail.

Yeah that clear coat will dull the finish. Spaz Stix for airbrush will give you much much better results than the can version. Do you still got your molotow markers? You can always open them and pour out the paint into something like a 10ml bottle like tamiya a new one. I spray all my normal chrome paints over alclad gloss black base, but if you want the best shine you'd need 2K clear over base coat. Duralumen Chrome

You could also get this is you want the best durable and bang for your buck. Sells off etsy.

As it being a ink and bout the same as super chrome from AK you can spray it over anything and it'll chrome up lol.

Green stuff world has two versions of there chrome one for airbrush & one for paint brush. AK's super chrome is better than molotow in my opinion, and it can be brushed or airbrushed as well, but I'm not a fan of it so i just use it for detail work. Alclad chrome isn't that sensitive to where you can't buff it or touch it lol. Alclad, Kustom service, green stuff world, AK super chrome, spazstix, AK Xtreme chrome, gia notes silver plate, etc etc the list can go on, and on, and on. All chrome paint is sensitive, and isn't the most durable, and can not be clear coated or else you'll lose the shine. The most durable though that I've used is Kustom service, and Spazstix, and you spray pretty much all of them the same 12-15PSI nice mist coats. If you go chrome chasing, and test them all, and spray them properly you'll realize there all bout the same just one might be a tad brighter than the other.

Looks alright. There's just too many better options out there to warrant giving this a try. Alclad still #1 though lol.

The only thing bought from out of town was the Lego's. Everything else was most of my orders that came in. Sadly one bottle of gravity colors was busted, and got all over the other bottles, and ruined the labels so i had to clean them all up, and put new labels on. I'm hoping they send me a replacement. EDIT: So contacted them with pics, and they said they're going to ship out a new bottle tomorrow

Well hopefully I'm still alive by than still got a couple decades left in me lol.

I was mainly speaking out loud for anyone that does see this post so they don't get old stock. I should of been more specific so that's my fault lol.

I would only recommend buying straight from the OEM. Other places like modelroundup etc might have old stock, and you might get old product instead of the new and improved.

That's going to be one sweeeeeeet truck.

Those are just burnishing tools. I have a set by AK, but that pink one looks nice as the left end looks to be the smallest I've seen. Never thought about using one for gluing though, and don't feel bad about shaky hands. I'm 33 and have a shaky hand when using a brush etc lol.

Sweet! It is a little pricey for 500mL compared to the other stuff, but it'll last a very very long time especially if you only use it for just removing the varnish. I use a bristle brush iwata wash brush for airbrushes to clean off the varnish after it's done sitting, and a old tooth brush will work the same as well. It's like a snake shedding its skin off lol, and i tested it on a crappy atlantis chrome part that was horrible and thick. So taking that off makes it just as good as the other stuff ahem winner winner chicken dinner.

The Oden-Kan SC-02 I posted earlier works perfect at removing the under layer varnish. It does take little bit more time, but removes it no problem.

Usually don't get lego from walmart, but they broke street date of March 1st so i snatched it up

I'm shocked if ferrari doesn't come after them lol. That is nice and good skill, but there's no way i would drive a fiber glass made vehicle on the road let alone buy it.

I got a ton that will eventually be coming in from plaza japan, gravity colors, hiroboy, ebay, and that's not including when i go out with my friend this week to check out my main spots lol. Spent about a good $1000 on kits, paints, photo etch parts, etc will post once everything is in.

No i doubt the lye is removing the varnish. Some other chemical in those products that contain lye is probably removing it, but it's not the lye. Think most of those products contain like 5% lye, and that's what removes the chrome, but not the varnish. Isn't much more proof needed when 100% lye can't remove it lol. I use to use superclean when i first started, and it would remove both chrome and varnish because of lye and other stuff that's in it. I quit using it though because when it failed to remove the varnish it would stain it purple. Maybe lye being mixed with other chemicals helps remove the varnish? Not sure, but when i tested it i left parts in 100% lye for days, and it didn't touch the varnish at all just made it cleaner lol. That paint remover product i showed earlier only has like 4-5 chemicals in it, and if i remember correctly one of them is acetone, but not like the acetone you get out of lowes etc. Stuff bout smells like nail polish remover, but stronger. Crazy thing is it will NOT remove chrome though simply cause it doesn't contain lye in it, but it will remove varnish and any kind of paint like no ones business. There is another product i got that i haven't tried yet, and it's this stuff in the picture. I'll eventually be testing it out on removing varnish from chrome parts.