Dpate

I've never known folks to think Tamiya's tape is too tacky. If i need to de-tack it i just put the tape on the palm of my hand. If Tamiya tape pulled up 6 layers of paint than even cheap painters tape would do the same thing. It pulled up because the paint didn't adhere to the aluminum plate at all the tape is not the issue here at all. You used paint on bare plastic, and than smoothed it out like a babies bottom lol. The tape pulled everything up because the paint wasn't imbedded into the aluminum plate just sitting on top of it so ta speak.

Nice!

My judgement on MPC with model cars is rough so no way i would ever consider a plane model by them. Trumperter has one but it's 1/32 scale, and you got tamiya, and i think hobby boss would probably have one. I don't know too much about planes, but eduard has a good selection of P-51 mustangs in 1/48 scale. Here is an example, and i own few bi plane kits from them and they get a A+ from me.

I went to HL couple weeks back with a friend and they had couple new kits they never had before, but nothing to wanna drive a hour trip for. Hobbytown, and two mom and pop shops have took all my business because they sell more than just the run of the mill AMT and Revell kit. Unless there is something very specific i need that the other shops don't have or i can't order it than that soccer mom store is pretty much dead to me lol.

These came in

Novus #1 works good, but it wont turn a AMT clear part into a Tamiya clear part.

Do it after the clear, and than polish it up with a good quality cotton swab i.e tamiya or use a good quality cotton cloth.

I use one of these from ventworks and they've went up in price sadly.

This thread is getting no where fast

My mom just called me earlier said walmart had kits in and i was pretty shocked. She said she picked me one as a late Christmas gift, and she didn't tell me which one so I'll find out once i get to the hobby room.

You’re gonna love that tool. Great for making circles. I got the cheaper one, but these are the best you’re gonna get hobby wise for cutting circles.

Honestly if you're going to brush paint a large area like that you would be better off with model color or even model air like there black brushes good thinned little with water. I wouldn't even use tamiya's enamels to brush painting large area's like that and there perfect for brush painting, but more so detail work and small parts. Depending on your acceptability brush painting large parts like that with any paint or brush highly doubt will not going to give great results. You're better off using spray bombs which will give a better finish than a brush will. But you should prime before you brush paint especially acrylics.

Hey have you checked yours yet? Mine the cab's left window mold brace was weaker than the right side little thinner, and it's warped a little so i got to try and fix it. Hopefully yours is fine.

Here are some pics of a toyota supra i just painted today in zero paints brown gray toyato color. Each coat 10 mins each total of 5 coats.

There fantastic. I got the 36” deluxe. Don’t mind the lop sided bulb I got to adjust the socket part lol.

There you go. Like i said before i had this issue when i first used zero paints, but it didn't happen to the whole body just a small section. After repainting and waiting 10 mins between coats it didn't happen again. This is from there own instructions and tamiya primer is safe.

It doesn't have capillary action like there thin versions. Yes it still has the same strong bond, just a lot thicker. Think of 5 min epoxy just not as thick as epoxy. Soon as i seen the title of your post this is the first thing that popped in my head. I got my bottle from hobby town for like $5, and online around the same price.

Sweet! Nice too see it fixed itself. One of my favorite big rigs.

I had that effect a little when i used zero paints. It was because i didn't wait long enough between coats. Strip the body best you can, re-sand the body, wash, re prime 3 good coats not too heavy last coat needs to be wet (tamiya likes to go on wet), and repaint with light coats and 5-10 mins between coats. Light coats with zero paint build it up until you achieve results you're after. Zero paints is a lot hotter than most automotive paints so take it slow. 4-5 light coats with least 10 mins between coats should build that maroon color up real nice. You did nothing wrong with your process just got to wait longer between coats, and you don't really have to use the SAME brand for everything. Automotive paints just need little more patience is all, and you'll have a great paint job - also all automotive paints aren't the same meaning some are hotter than others i.e zero paint hotter than say scalefinishes and gravity colors.

This is the slower than there other 2 and doesn't work the same. Brush on both parts and put together with plenty of time to move parts around etc.

I order mine from newtype.com they have everything infini you'll ever need lol

One thing that can help is have your paintbooth running for a bit before you go to wait. That way the air is some what clear of dust etc in the booth area, but dust is the big enemy not so much trash etc. That's why soon as i paint or 2K clear it goes straight into the dehydrator so nothing can get on it, because checking it out after painting is one way to easily get dust specs in your paint or clear coat. If you got a huge paint booth like i got than laying paper towels down and spraying them down with water can help dust settle as well, and having a clean surrounding area helps as well. I've never had a lot of dust in paint or clear just random specs of dust hear and there easy spots to get out no problem.

My condolences!

I have TONS of infini sandpaper from sticks, sponge sticks, and sponge pads. 3M is awesome too, and tamiya sponge pads are nice too but pricey for what you get. Honestly infini, 3M, and micro mesh that's really the 3 brands on sanding material you need.