Dpate

I think there primer doesn't exist anymore least around here.

Yeah it's definitely latex. When it's put on properly it's great stuff, and comes off the parts easy with no residue.

Oh okay. Na it’s not metal. Comes with chrome metal handle bar etc, but everything else plastic.

What's metl?

This is the kit i was talking about. Guy wants almost $700 for it lol. There is another one on there for almost $800. I would LOVE to own this kit someday, but I'll never pay that kind of money for it.

Yeah i started in this hobby using a airbrush the iwata eclipse to be exact and now i own 4 air brushes. You really don't have to practice with both size needles, because whatever you can do with a .3 you can do with a .5. Only difference is a .5 can allow thicker paints to go through with less thinning, and is great for certain metallic paints etc. That would be kind of annoying changing the needle packing etc each time lol. You can always adjust the adjuster on the end of the brush too that'll help with trigger control. Scalefinishes paints are easy to paint, but an easier approach would of been Tamiya X-XF line up or there best line up there LP series. There paint's are very forgiving especially thinned with mr leveling thinner - it'll make any rookie look like a pro lol. If you're ever in the market for the best semi-gloss black that'll be Tamiya's LP-5 in my humble opinion.

Last time i used a brush with it i got it out the brush by using back end of xacto blade, and pulling through the hairs, but it will still mess up the brush. Either use disposable brushes that are cheap or disposable micro brushes or silicone brushes < comes off super easy on those.

.3 or .5 wont matter just means more paint flow with a .5, but it's all about the trigger control too and technique. I own that brush and use it daily and upgraded mine to a .5 as well even though it's not needed for regular paint it helps with primer etc. If you're spraying wet that means you're either too close or you're pulling to far back on the trigger. If you're serious about airbrushing especially with a dual action brush a good technique to learn is not treating it like a single action. What i mean is you push down for air, and pull back for paint, and instead of letting go of the trigger you keep it pressed down, and push forwards. You always have the air going never letting off the air. It's a muscle memory and can be tricky to learn at first, but once you get it - it'll be like 2nd nature to you. But again down for air pull back for paint and back forward for air never letting go of the trigger doing that one steady motion as you're painting. Do you have any other paint's to use for airbrushing that you can thin down or already airbrush ready? That way you don't waste expensive paint.

Bondo filler will work too or even sprue goo.

Yeah it’s wild. There’s a Harley Davison kit from Tamiya with all the bells n whistles I want, but it’s cost $500 or more to get it. High prices are mainly from folks seeing others selling a kit at a high price so they list there’s around the same. Also some think cause it’s out of production or super duper ultra rare they have to be worth hundreds n hundreds lol.

Not sure, but man i bought this kit when i first got into the hobby. I've yet to build it lol.

I use a mason jar with those new plastic leak proof caps. I use a pipette to get it out the mason jar fill up the color cup, and than use wash brush to clean color cup, and than dump that, and than pipette more out the jar into the color cup this time back flushing and spraying, and than i dump that do it again with another back flush to see if she's clean if she's clean i dump that do final clean with towel, and on to the next color. Sounds like a lot, but only takes like 2 mins lol. If I'm done for the day I'll do the same thing, but than take needle out and clean all that, and than use 2 denture brushes small and large the small for the inside hole and large for the front. I'll a lot of times take a Q-tip and clean the bottom out too if my wash brush didn't get everything. The large denture brush is great for cleaning the nozzle too on the iwata eclipse, and if i do a DEEP clean that's when i whip out the iwata tool kit.

Brush painting while not the best finish is the easiest method. Best method is using different size tape 1mm etc from tamiya and careful masking and air brush it. Sometimes masking can take 2 hours or more depending on what you're masking and 1 min to remove it LOL. I hate molded in parts too and especially interior tubs.

No wet coats because these are automotive 2 stage paints i.e base coat and than clear coat. I own there primer but haven't used it and it's kind of tricky to use so i heard. Basically light coats of the primer 5 mins apart building it up, it's not the same as Mr surfacer or tamiya etc. You could wait a day on the primer to be safe if you don't have a dehydrator, and depending on temp and humidity in the room. There paints dry super quick, and lacquers don't cure like enamels so after base coat is down after like 20 mins or so you could start clear coating. I'd say about a good 3 inches or so away from the model without being wet and not being to far for it to dry mid air. But distance is really something you'll have to figure out because set ups are different etc etc. You could practice on a spoon or a test body, but .3 or .5 needle 15-20 PSI bout 3 inches away should work good depending on what airbrush you got. But you never wanna do wet coats with automotive paints because there hot paints, and can cause some damage even with a good primer.

I use a iwata washing brush, and back flushing, and spraying multiple times, and than a thin micro fiber towel for cleaning between colors. I use to use a shop towel, but that was causing lint to get inside. Your idea is great for color cups that can be removed.

Depending on what Didspade paint you got determines what base coat you'll have to use either white or black. They should spray and go down the same way as regular scalefinish paints. 15-20PSI 3-4 light -medium coats 5-10mins apart never do wet coats, and they dry so doesn't take long for whatever clear you decide to use.

Just warm up some water on the stove and sit the can in the pot for about a min or two, and dry can off and shake for few mins and off to the races.

Are you using the spray cans or are you decanting it? When i last used tamiya's maroon it was over bare plastic scrap part testing out the color. This color you have to build up until you get the fullness of the maroon by doing light coats few mins between coats. It even looks purplish like that in my tamiya paint jar, but i think this is the only color tamiya actually has that is a automotive color made just for there fairlady z kit. From the picture it looks like you were trying to build up the gloss too fast, and not saying you did it's just the way it looks is all. If you are using the can did you shake it good enough? Warm it up in water for few mins? Hot water bath will give a nicer spray.

This beauty came in today. Sadly could only find 2 of the 4 detail up sets.

Good stuff. Burbank house of hobbies are great to order from.

I only use lacquer on car bodies and just about 98% on everything else except I'll use enamel for tiny details. I'm sure it'll be the same for enamel, but let it sit few mins and than remove pulling back on itself at an angle.

Could of been the plastic. I have heard of tamiya changing up there formula, but i never had any trouble the times I've used it. My #1 go to primer though is Mr.Surfacer 1200 & 1500 & Mr leveling thinner that's the ultimate combo no reason to use any other primer least for me. I'm more a airbrush guy though, always decant the cans if i get tamiya etc.

I'm gonna go on a limb and say you sprayed it completely wrong or bad can. Tamiya likes to go on wet cause it self levels, but you build up too that. Light coats and than the last coat wet coat. Should self level and dry super smooth and than hit with 3K grit paper for even smoother finish.

Last kit i purchased of there's at full price was buyers remorse. They instantly went into the MPC category as in will never buy ANY model with those names on it.

I love gravity colors, but never tried there chrome because of so many other good brands. Have you even used chrome paint before? If you have what have you used so far? From your original post it sounds like you are just asking for trim detail, and i would stick with BMF for that.