Dpate

This beauty came in today. Sadly could only find 2 of the 4 detail up sets.

Good stuff. Burbank house of hobbies are great to order from.

I only use lacquer on car bodies and just about 98% on everything else except I'll use enamel for tiny details. I'm sure it'll be the same for enamel, but let it sit few mins and than remove pulling back on itself at an angle.

Could of been the plastic. I have heard of tamiya changing up there formula, but i never had any trouble the times I've used it. My #1 go to primer though is Mr.Surfacer 1200 & 1500 & Mr leveling thinner that's the ultimate combo no reason to use any other primer least for me. I'm more a airbrush guy though, always decant the cans if i get tamiya etc.

I'm gonna go on a limb and say you sprayed it completely wrong or bad can. Tamiya likes to go on wet cause it self levels, but you build up too that. Light coats and than the last coat wet coat. Should self level and dry super smooth and than hit with 3K grit paper for even smoother finish.

Last kit i purchased of there's at full price was buyers remorse. They instantly went into the MPC category as in will never buy ANY model with those names on it.

I love gravity colors, but never tried there chrome because of so many other good brands. Have you even used chrome paint before? If you have what have you used so far? From your original post it sounds like you are just asking for trim detail, and i would stick with BMF for that.

I use BMF for trims and such (with heavy buffing ) and usually for scrips I'll use PE. Painting trim and such with chrome metal paint can work just you better make sure your tape job is perfect or....well...you know what happens lol. Best chrome though is subjective at this scale, but the best chrome is whatever one you use first until you try a different one lol. You can use multiple different types of chrome metal paint on different builds or test different brands until you find one that looks the part to your eyes. Also instead of painting side view and rear view mirrors if the kit didn't come with any metal transfer's than just use BMF or hasagawa mirror finish to look like mirrors. But more to your question - BMF the new improved good stuff is better and easier to do for trims etc. There is a slight learning curve, and you'll waste a bit until you get it right, but once you get it you'll love it. Scalpel blades are better for cutting BMF too, because there thinner and sharper. Xacto blades work fine too, but if you wanna up your game use Scalpel blades with a xacto blade handle.

Spaz stix and Kustom service durability is great and gives better results to my eye. But with all metal paints the parts should never really be touched once on the model regardless of durability. A lot of "chromes" end up looking like polished aluminium.

Dang everybody already getting there's. I preordered from 3000toys.com and they still waiting on products ?

Highly recommend the Procon PS 290 .5 with fan pattern nozzle and 15ML cup. currently $100 on amazon. If you wanna see more about it check out spraygunner.com If you decide to get it and want a grip Iwata grip works perfect.

Donkey do what Donkey is

Hard pass for me. Looks like a nice car a Karen would drive too food lion for some early shopping.

That's a sign telling you to stop using them on expensive model kits. Use them on outside plastic furniture what there meant for lol

Nice! My charger still on pre-order no one has gotten them yet. Ouch on that canadian dollar though.

Wow what a steal man

Seen this at Walmart.

Almost all automotive paints towards the hobby will be airbrush ready paints. Gravity colors(spain), Scalefinishes, MCW, MRP, SMS, Splash paints, zero paints, and theres loads more. Now for metal colors you got Alclad, AK, Green stuff world, and even the others i named makes metal colors. If you want the BEST airbrushed primer that would be Mr.surfacer along with either Mr leveling thinner or even rapid thinner as well.

Hmmm would be tough because you have to burnish it down. Test on a small section of BMF. Spray it, apply it to a test part, and start burnishing it down and see what happens.

That's a good idea, but the frame part is actually too skinny for that compared to the right side that was properly molded. I've seen folks builds on hobbylinc and seems they have the issue with there's too. Sucks too cause i only paid $20 for the kit at hobby lobby when my friend wanted to go, and the seller on ebay selling the cab for $17 with similar issue sigh.

I know. I'm saying i assumed HE didn't prime because of what the can said. Probably thought you could get away without using primer.

So I'm going to try and explain this the best i can, and hope someone has a solution on top of my solutions I've came up with. So on the cab the left windows bracing is very weak, and bendy, and not as strong and sturdy as the right window bracing. I've found these pictures on Ebay of someone selling the cab for the kit, but seems his has similar issues but not as bad as mine. So the first solution i came up with that i haven't tried yet was putting a popsicle stick behind the window bracing and tape it down form the back and front so it's straight, and than hit it with heat little at a time cooling off each time. It would still be skinny, and not robust as the right side's window bracing. So the other solution i figured might work would be using a plastic square bar 1mm or 1.5mm not sure of the size yet and replace the cab part with it because looks pretty much the same. Here are some pics from online and if anyone has any better suggestions I'm all ears. You can see in the first pic the left bracing has a slight bend to it from the sellers pic, but mines worse than that. The 3rd pic shows how robust the right bracing is, and sorry his pics aren't that good quality. The other pic shows the styrene bars.

Well i was assuming you didn't prime because of the paint you used is a 3 in 1 type. Paint, primer, & sealer.

Yeah I'm sure you can i think it's an acrylic. But the ultra is 2nd gen and can only find regular matt in 3rd gen. EDIT: Found the 3rd gen, but it's on there site can't find it any where else, and says Soluble in water, odorless and non-toxic so def acrylic.