Dpate

I don't really have one as of yet, but i know a lot of folks the 1970 dodge charger R/T by revell will be a holy grail.

Yeah that clear coat will dull the finish. Spaz Stix for airbrush will give you much much better results than the can version. Do you still got your molotow markers? You can always open them and pour out the paint into something like a 10ml bottle like tamiya a new one. I spray all my normal chrome paints over alclad gloss black base, but if you want the best shine you'd need 2K clear over base coat. Duralumen Chrome

You could also get this is you want the best durable and bang for your buck. Sells off etsy.

As it being a ink and bout the same as super chrome from AK you can spray it over anything and it'll chrome up lol.

Green stuff world has two versions of there chrome one for airbrush & one for paint brush. AK's super chrome is better than molotow in my opinion, and it can be brushed or airbrushed as well, but I'm not a fan of it so i just use it for detail work. Alclad chrome isn't that sensitive to where you can't buff it or touch it lol. Alclad, Kustom service, green stuff world, AK super chrome, spazstix, AK Xtreme chrome, gia notes silver plate, etc etc the list can go on, and on, and on. All chrome paint is sensitive, and isn't the most durable, and can not be clear coated or else you'll lose the shine. The most durable though that I've used is Kustom service, and Spazstix, and you spray pretty much all of them the same 12-15PSI nice mist coats. If you go chrome chasing, and test them all, and spray them properly you'll realize there all bout the same just one might be a tad brighter than the other.

Looks alright. There's just too many better options out there to warrant giving this a try. Alclad still #1 though lol.

The only thing bought from out of town was the Lego's. Everything else was most of my orders that came in. Sadly one bottle of gravity colors was busted, and got all over the other bottles, and ruined the labels so i had to clean them all up, and put new labels on. I'm hoping they send me a replacement. EDIT: So contacted them with pics, and they said they're going to ship out a new bottle tomorrow

Well hopefully I'm still alive by than still got a couple decades left in me lol.

I was mainly speaking out loud for anyone that does see this post so they don't get old stock. I should of been more specific so that's my fault lol.

I would only recommend buying straight from the OEM. Other places like modelroundup etc might have old stock, and you might get old product instead of the new and improved.

That's going to be one sweeeeeeet truck.

Those are just burnishing tools. I have a set by AK, but that pink one looks nice as the left end looks to be the smallest I've seen. Never thought about using one for gluing though, and don't feel bad about shaky hands. I'm 33 and have a shaky hand when using a brush etc lol.

Sweet! It is a little pricey for 500mL compared to the other stuff, but it'll last a very very long time especially if you only use it for just removing the varnish. I use a bristle brush iwata wash brush for airbrushes to clean off the varnish after it's done sitting, and a old tooth brush will work the same as well. It's like a snake shedding its skin off lol, and i tested it on a crappy atlantis chrome part that was horrible and thick. So taking that off makes it just as good as the other stuff ahem winner winner chicken dinner.

The Oden-Kan SC-02 I posted earlier works perfect at removing the under layer varnish. It does take little bit more time, but removes it no problem.

Usually don't get lego from walmart, but they broke street date of March 1st so i snatched it up

I'm shocked if ferrari doesn't come after them lol. That is nice and good skill, but there's no way i would drive a fiber glass made vehicle on the road let alone buy it.

I got a ton that will eventually be coming in from plaza japan, gravity colors, hiroboy, ebay, and that's not including when i go out with my friend this week to check out my main spots lol. Spent about a good $1000 on kits, paints, photo etch parts, etc will post once everything is in.

No i doubt the lye is removing the varnish. Some other chemical in those products that contain lye is probably removing it, but it's not the lye. Think most of those products contain like 5% lye, and that's what removes the chrome, but not the varnish. Isn't much more proof needed when 100% lye can't remove it lol. I use to use superclean when i first started, and it would remove both chrome and varnish because of lye and other stuff that's in it. I quit using it though because when it failed to remove the varnish it would stain it purple. Maybe lye being mixed with other chemicals helps remove the varnish? Not sure, but when i tested it i left parts in 100% lye for days, and it didn't touch the varnish at all just made it cleaner lol. That paint remover product i showed earlier only has like 4-5 chemicals in it, and if i remember correctly one of them is acetone, but not like the acetone you get out of lowes etc. Stuff bout smells like nail polish remover, but stronger. Crazy thing is it will NOT remove chrome though simply cause it doesn't contain lye in it, but it will remove varnish and any kind of paint like no ones business. There is another product i got that i haven't tried yet, and it's this stuff in the picture. I'll eventually be testing it out on removing varnish from chrome parts.

lol Don't use any kind of plastic use PET, and shouldn't have an issue. Don't use full chrome tree's just the parts itself. If it seems like it's losing it's power i.e chrome taking awhile to come off just make fresh batch of water & lye. I also mentioned in previous post lye will not remove the yellow coating at all as I've tested that's why i do a 2 stage process. i only use the lye to remove chrome that's it.

This stuff right? If so yes that will work 100% removing the chrome better and faster than all other products and it's cheaper. You'll know when it loses it strength when it's slow at removing the chrome. That's when you just make fresh new water or just add little more lye to water already made. Remember to add it to the water not the other way around. This prevents a dust cloud - just take a plastic spoon or measuring spoon and scoop some up and sprinkle it in the water. You can slowly mix it or let dissolve on its own if you want. Add chrome and watch it vanish like magic lol. New kits chrome vanishes in seconds, and older kits can take 30secs to a min. That's better than hours or days of waiting lol. My routine is basically after the chrome is off i use tweezers to grab the parts give a good swish around and put on shop towel or whatever and give them a good wash and scrub. This stuff will not remove the varnish though I've tried by leaving parts in for days, and doesn't touch the varnish. Might need scalecoat for that or try 91%-99% alchohol. That other product i listed is hard to get cause it's all ways out of stock for some reason but man does it work, and the only down side to it is the smell. It's strong even stronger than lacquer thinner, but it doesn't hurt plastic at all unless it's left for days. The max is 13 hours with that stuff, but I've never had to leave anything that long.

The BEST product to use to remove chrome is 100% lye, and its cheap, and no more dangerous than other products folks use. Basically get a little container, warm water, spoon, and slowly add the lye to the water. The water will be cloudy for bout a min, and than it turns clear, and than you add your chrome parts, and than watch the chrome vanish in a mater of seconds depending on the brand. The longest I've ever had to wait was about 2 mins, and that was on a old 1989 tamiya kit. The reason these other products work good like oven cleaner, and superclean is because of the lye in it. The product in the picture is not only amazing at stripping paint etc, but it'll take off the varnish that was under the chrome off in mins. Dries it up, and makes it stringy, and easily brushed off the part. I would only use scalecoat for removing paint, and use cheap lye for chrome.

Yeah i originally got it to hold small parts like rims etc, but forgot i had it. Once i found it and seen how wide it opens i was like yep this will work.

Model color isn't an airbrush paint even though it can be thinned down for airbrush it's best for brush painting. If you didn't thin it before airbrushing? That's why you were having issues with it spraying. If you have a handle on enamel and lacquer why are you trying to airbrush model color? If 4000 grit cut/gouged into the paint than it wasn't either dry prop or it's just too soft of a paint to sand as it's pure water based acrylic paint. A dehydrator will help everything, but if i was you i would pick your favorite between the two enamel or lacquer and use one of those two to paint bodies etc, and use model color etc for detail painting small parts etc .

I'm kind of embarrassed, but i forgot i had my clamp stand by dspiae. It actually turned out to work really good.

Thanks I'll check it out.