Dpate

lol Don't use any kind of plastic use PET, and shouldn't have an issue. Don't use full chrome tree's just the parts itself. If it seems like it's losing it's power i.e chrome taking awhile to come off just make fresh batch of water & lye. I also mentioned in previous post lye will not remove the yellow coating at all as I've tested that's why i do a 2 stage process. i only use the lye to remove chrome that's it.

This stuff right? If so yes that will work 100% removing the chrome better and faster than all other products and it's cheaper. You'll know when it loses it strength when it's slow at removing the chrome. That's when you just make fresh new water or just add little more lye to water already made. Remember to add it to the water not the other way around. This prevents a dust cloud - just take a plastic spoon or measuring spoon and scoop some up and sprinkle it in the water. You can slowly mix it or let dissolve on its own if you want. Add chrome and watch it vanish like magic lol. New kits chrome vanishes in seconds, and older kits can take 30secs to a min. That's better than hours or days of waiting lol. My routine is basically after the chrome is off i use tweezers to grab the parts give a good swish around and put on shop towel or whatever and give them a good wash and scrub. This stuff will not remove the varnish though I've tried by leaving parts in for days, and doesn't touch the varnish. Might need scalecoat for that or try 91%-99% alchohol. That other product i listed is hard to get cause it's all ways out of stock for some reason but man does it work, and the only down side to it is the smell. It's strong even stronger than lacquer thinner, but it doesn't hurt plastic at all unless it's left for days. The max is 13 hours with that stuff, but I've never had to leave anything that long.

The BEST product to use to remove chrome is 100% lye, and its cheap, and no more dangerous than other products folks use. Basically get a little container, warm water, spoon, and slowly add the lye to the water. The water will be cloudy for bout a min, and than it turns clear, and than you add your chrome parts, and than watch the chrome vanish in a mater of seconds depending on the brand. The longest I've ever had to wait was about 2 mins, and that was on a old 1989 tamiya kit. The reason these other products work good like oven cleaner, and superclean is because of the lye in it. The product in the picture is not only amazing at stripping paint etc, but it'll take off the varnish that was under the chrome off in mins. Dries it up, and makes it stringy, and easily brushed off the part. I would only use scalecoat for removing paint, and use cheap lye for chrome.

Yeah i originally got it to hold small parts like rims etc, but forgot i had it. Once i found it and seen how wide it opens i was like yep this will work.

Model color isn't an airbrush paint even though it can be thinned down for airbrush it's best for brush painting. If you didn't thin it before airbrushing? That's why you were having issues with it spraying. If you have a handle on enamel and lacquer why are you trying to airbrush model color? If 4000 grit cut/gouged into the paint than it wasn't either dry prop or it's just too soft of a paint to sand as it's pure water based acrylic paint. A dehydrator will help everything, but if i was you i would pick your favorite between the two enamel or lacquer and use one of those two to paint bodies etc, and use model color etc for detail painting small parts etc .

I'm kind of embarrassed, but i forgot i had my clamp stand by dspiae. It actually turned out to work really good.

Thanks I'll check it out.

Yes is there such a thing that exist? I know some kits come with stands n such to keep them up right at a certain point, but i was wondering if there was something else that existed to hold a bike up while working on it?

It'll be awhile before i get back to the hobby room, but this was on the info page of the kit. I'm not sure if it's just lowered option or they give both. • Choice of factory-stock or custom wheels and tires.• Highly detailed 5.3-liter Vortec V-8 engine and rear-drive chassis with custom dropped suspension.

Megahobby order.

Scalecoat is another option.

Yeah i was gonna mention zero paints, but someone beat me to it. That's your best option, but it is gonna be a bit pricey ordering from hiroboy.com that's where i get all my zero paints from. They do require a clear coat though preferably 2K, but any clear would do.

I'm having a friend keep an eye out at ollies for me since its 30 mins from me. I really want 2 dodge rams, 1 corvette, and 1 PT-17

That's an awesome man cave. A hobby room of this caliber needs more tamiya kits though than 1

I know on scalemates the monogram dodge just has 2022 change??? So who knows. There already on ebay, and 1 has no shrink wrap and with the ollie sign still on, and 2 sold for $29. So i doubt it's gonna be too hard for anyone to sell them, and there's another one on there still wrapped with a white paper covering the ollie label going for $40.

My friend checked ollies today for these and didn't see any yet. I hope mine gets all them, but at least the dodge ram.

Nice models, but i love those cabinets.

Did you try wet sanding the outline with 3000 grit pad? 3M 3000 grit trizact is nice to use and try.

Just looks like another generic chrome pin. You're better off getting one of the gundom chrome plate pins or molotow from hobby lobby.

I've never used future, but long as it's cured and tape is de tacked it shouldn't remove the future. You could always do a test on a spoon or test piece. Coat or two of future let it cure, and than tape test. If that passes than test TS-13 on it, and see if that passes. Lot of variables to go on even if someone may say it's okay etc. Something like this is where i would do testing and have patience instead of depending on someone's definite answer of yes or no. You could always use micro set to remove the decals, but you'd have to take your time with that without messing them up since you already have SOL on it.

Yeah there expensive in the states for some weird reason. There cheap on plazajapan and that's where i get a lot of my tools from when i do a big order. Those HiQparts scribers are $16 on there, and I'm gonna get there smaller size ones as well. It's not even just there tools too it's there tape and cotton swabs etc just very expensive in the states. $2 pack of tape is bout $6 in the state, $2 pack of swabs bout $5-$6, and list goes on and on. I only paid bout $20 for mine with the holder which would of cost me bout $40 in the states. I just LOVE japan made products great quality stuff.

wow those distributors look really nice. Gonna check them out.

You bought the wrong tamiya tool, but there are tons of different scribing tools on the market. The one i use is by tamiya, but you'll pay about $25-$30 for it in the states. The one is the pic is a 0.2mm engraving tool for scribing. HiQparts has a few from 0.04mm and up as well.

I know last time i used stynylrez it liked to go on wet and self level like tamiya's primer. I've tried a lot of primers, and always go back to Mr. Surfacer as my main primer. Thinned with Mr. leveling thinner or rapid thinner < if you want a faster drying flat finish 1:1 or 2:1< 2 parts thinner 1 part paint. I always eye ball my mixes though, basically you know it's mixed right when you take your pipette to mix with up the side of the mixing cup, and you see it run down not too fast, and not too opaque can kind of see through it little bit. That's more on the 2:1 ratio side of things the way I'm explaining it, and through a Iwata esclipse .5 20 PSI light coats with a final medium wet coat, and self levels to a beautiful satin finish. There 1500 black is the best black primer I've seen, and it can actually save you from using separate black paint it's that good on its own. Ammo by mig titans hobby matt primer is fantastic too, but it can craze if you aren't careful unless you decant it. But if i had to choose 1 primer and 2 thinners only to use for the rest of my life that would be Mr. Surfacer, Mr. leveling thinner, and Rapid thinner because it has it uses. Here is a pic of all there primers, but it's missing there PINK though.

Surfacer will work best with mr leveling thinner. Thinned and sprayed right it lays down silky smooth with no sanding needed.