Dpate

There you go. Like i said before i had this issue when i first used zero paints, but it didn't happen to the whole body just a small section. After repainting and waiting 10 mins between coats it didn't happen again. This is from there own instructions and tamiya primer is safe.

It doesn't have capillary action like there thin versions. Yes it still has the same strong bond, just a lot thicker. Think of 5 min epoxy just not as thick as epoxy. Soon as i seen the title of your post this is the first thing that popped in my head. I got my bottle from hobby town for like $5, and online around the same price.

Sweet! Nice too see it fixed itself. One of my favorite big rigs.

I had that effect a little when i used zero paints. It was because i didn't wait long enough between coats. Strip the body best you can, re-sand the body, wash, re prime 3 good coats not too heavy last coat needs to be wet (tamiya likes to go on wet), and repaint with light coats and 5-10 mins between coats. Light coats with zero paint build it up until you achieve results you're after. Zero paints is a lot hotter than most automotive paints so take it slow. 4-5 light coats with least 10 mins between coats should build that maroon color up real nice. You did nothing wrong with your process just got to wait longer between coats, and you don't really have to use the SAME brand for everything. Automotive paints just need little more patience is all, and you'll have a great paint job - also all automotive paints aren't the same meaning some are hotter than others i.e zero paint hotter than say scalefinishes and gravity colors.

This is the slower than there other 2 and doesn't work the same. Brush on both parts and put together with plenty of time to move parts around etc.

I order mine from newtype.com they have everything infini you'll ever need lol

One thing that can help is have your paintbooth running for a bit before you go to wait. That way the air is some what clear of dust etc in the booth area, but dust is the big enemy not so much trash etc. That's why soon as i paint or 2K clear it goes straight into the dehydrator so nothing can get on it, because checking it out after painting is one way to easily get dust specs in your paint or clear coat. If you got a huge paint booth like i got than laying paper towels down and spraying them down with water can help dust settle as well, and having a clean surrounding area helps as well. I've never had a lot of dust in paint or clear just random specs of dust hear and there easy spots to get out no problem.

My condolences!

I have TONS of infini sandpaper from sticks, sponge sticks, and sponge pads. 3M is awesome too, and tamiya sponge pads are nice too but pricey for what you get. Honestly infini, 3M, and micro mesh that's really the 3 brands on sanding material you need.

Bet that cost an arm and a leg?

Came in today. Don’t know what I got myself into with this one lol.

You don't. I have the PS 290 Procon basically same brush even though the iwata is little better far as quality etc. But for fan nozzle you need higher pressure for a even spray pattern, but 20-25 PSI is perfect for it. If he sprays a perfect fan pattern at 35 PSI than that what works for him, but under and over pressure can cause a uneven fan pattern that doesn't have even coverage. You def don't need 35 PSI, but that's for the procon PS 290 19-25 PSI is all you need.

This is what I've been using and it works perfect stripping everything even 2K clear. Also makes short work of the varnish under chrome after the chrome is gone using lye. I'm gonna have to find a similar product because this has been out of stock for awhile now sadly.

I'll take this one too.

I'm a simple man this would do just fine. 69 chevelle restomod either one.

Never seen this at hobby lobby before

Yeah i get mine from hobby town near there RC section

Yeah that underlayer varnish can be tricky to remove on older kits, but not too bad on newer reissued kits. Speaking of mold lines the current kit I'm working on is littered with thick mold lines, excess plastic on the parts, flash on top of the mold lines, flash on top of the flash lol. I've spent 3 days so far just cleaning parts, etc and I'm yet to shoot a coat of primer lol. It's a 2013 kit, but original mold is from 1963 and this kit has had about 12 or so reissues so it's not surprising coming from AMT. The chrome is bad too, and has to be cleaned etc etc too, but it's not a super bad kit fitment is pretty good, but i would NOT recommend it to a beginner at all just because of all the extra cleaning and test fitting and cleaning and test fitting.

Well never said it was easy, but it is easier than most things we do in this hobby. You just have to keep trying until you get that eureka moment, and you don't want to much black showing through - because than it'll look like black chrome. I'm not sure the shelf life of alclad chrome, but I'm sure if it was kept properly it should last a very long time. Once you get the hang of it you'll always know how to spray a chrome paint because there all pretty similar when it comes to spraying, and really ANY metal paint like brass, copper, etc. Maybe you should try and get a new bottle of alclad and see what happens? I love chroming parts, and I'm like you but the opposite lol. I wish they would stop putting chrome on the parts period, and let us do our own chrome, and we know that'll never happen. I would do a test spoon before calling the bottle of alclad bad though.

Sounds like a walmart environment. If that ever happened to me they would lose my business instantly even though there slowly losing it anyways lol.

Yeah i didn't notice the missing part lol smh

Man i was eye balling one of those FLH on ebay it was brand new still wrapped for $50 that's with shipping. Usually what i do with parts that are broke is test fit the part, because if it's a clean break usually dab of tamiya thin cement will save the day if not than yeah what LL3 said. What i mean by clean break is when you put the two parts together, and they fit back together perfectly, and doesn't even look like it was ever broken than BOOM dab of thin cement, light sanding, prime, than winner winner chicken dinner.

They might buy them up as I've seen some mid $30 range on ebay. My friend got me 2 from ollies as well as i don't own any version of the kit. I opened one of mine and checked it out, and very clean kit no flash parts are detailed pretty good etc the decals are lacking though. I'll probably be picking up a PE set for eventually.

Yep reason why my rent went up extra $200 a month. Why? Lets just say there aren't enough curse words in the English language to say why LOL

To add what LL3 said including kustom service chrome which you can get from newtype.com (Stays out of stock though its that good). I only spray alclad, spazstix, and kustom service. AK super chrome is fantastic too but i only use that for brush painting, and molotow is good but without a dehrydrator you'll be waiting forever for it to dry. Spaz stix and kustom service is more durable than alclad, but chrome is a funny thing because you'll use one chrome and think its the best thing ever, and than try another and think the same thing after doing a comparison. It really boils down to trying different chromes and finding one that you like the look of and works for you, and alclad is a great choice if sprayed properly it looks fantastic, but is little less durable than others. Your issue is kind of weird because you said you let it dry for 48 hours which is way more than enough for the black base and alclad chrome to dry. Even though you let it dry that long maybe it didn't dry fully for some reason, and try not to go heavy on the gloss black base from alclad it doesn't take much to get a good gloss from it. Good lighting helps also when spray chrome, and good angles. You can use tamiya LP or TS gloss black as well and some folks even use humbrols gloss black. You can buff alclad because even though it's delicate, its not that delicate to where it comes off that easy like yours did. Sounds like some testing is needed, but you probably buff too hard lol. Good fiber cloth or Q-tip for small parts and light gentle buffs can get you little extra shine, and if some does happen to rub off for some reason you can respray light mist coats.