Dpate

Well never said it was easy, but it is easier than most things we do in this hobby. You just have to keep trying until you get that eureka moment, and you don't want to much black showing through - because than it'll look like black chrome. I'm not sure the shelf life of alclad chrome, but I'm sure if it was kept properly it should last a very long time. Once you get the hang of it you'll always know how to spray a chrome paint because there all pretty similar when it comes to spraying, and really ANY metal paint like brass, copper, etc. Maybe you should try and get a new bottle of alclad and see what happens? I love chroming parts, and I'm like you but the opposite lol. I wish they would stop putting chrome on the parts period, and let us do our own chrome, and we know that'll never happen. I would do a test spoon before calling the bottle of alclad bad though.

Sounds like a walmart environment. If that ever happened to me they would lose my business instantly even though there slowly losing it anyways lol.

Yeah i didn't notice the missing part lol smh

Man i was eye balling one of those FLH on ebay it was brand new still wrapped for $50 that's with shipping. Usually what i do with parts that are broke is test fit the part, because if it's a clean break usually dab of tamiya thin cement will save the day if not than yeah what LL3 said. What i mean by clean break is when you put the two parts together, and they fit back together perfectly, and doesn't even look like it was ever broken than BOOM dab of thin cement, light sanding, prime, than winner winner chicken dinner.

They might buy them up as I've seen some mid $30 range on ebay. My friend got me 2 from ollies as well as i don't own any version of the kit. I opened one of mine and checked it out, and very clean kit no flash parts are detailed pretty good etc the decals are lacking though. I'll probably be picking up a PE set for eventually.

Yep reason why my rent went up extra $200 a month. Why? Lets just say there aren't enough curse words in the English language to say why LOL

To add what LL3 said including kustom service chrome which you can get from newtype.com (Stays out of stock though its that good). I only spray alclad, spazstix, and kustom service. AK super chrome is fantastic too but i only use that for brush painting, and molotow is good but without a dehrydrator you'll be waiting forever for it to dry. Spaz stix and kustom service is more durable than alclad, but chrome is a funny thing because you'll use one chrome and think its the best thing ever, and than try another and think the same thing after doing a comparison. It really boils down to trying different chromes and finding one that you like the look of and works for you, and alclad is a great choice if sprayed properly it looks fantastic, but is little less durable than others. Your issue is kind of weird because you said you let it dry for 48 hours which is way more than enough for the black base and alclad chrome to dry. Even though you let it dry that long maybe it didn't dry fully for some reason, and try not to go heavy on the gloss black base from alclad it doesn't take much to get a good gloss from it. Good lighting helps also when spray chrome, and good angles. You can use tamiya LP or TS gloss black as well and some folks even use humbrols gloss black. You can buff alclad because even though it's delicate, its not that delicate to where it comes off that easy like yours did. Sounds like some testing is needed, but you probably buff too hard lol. Good fiber cloth or Q-tip for small parts and light gentle buffs can get you little extra shine, and if some does happen to rub off for some reason you can respray light mist coats.

True, but i still bake lacquers too lol. 90% of my paint is lacquer its too nice. I don't bake scalefinishes though it flashes super quick and can be clear coated like 20-30 mins lol.

So my friend just sent me these two pics from ollies. She said this was all my ollies had so i told her to get two of the bel airs lol.

These came in today.

The glossier and smoother the black base is the better the chrome effect will be. 12-15 PSI light mist coats is what you want, and depending on how you spray it can dust up on you which isn't a bad thing because that can be buffed off using a Q-tip. You can buff alclad chrome, but no to much because it will rub off. If you're trying to buff it too a shine than you're doing it wrong. A smaller needle helps to spray it too like a .2, but a .35 or .5 will work too just be easy on the trigger. I still use alclad chrome, but there are better alternatives out there that are lot more durable than alclad. But no matter what chrome paint it is they pretty much all spray the same, and the smoother and glossier your base is the better the chrome effect will be.

Yes vallejo is good especially there model colors great for painting tiny parts etc. Abteilung 502 products are amazing so it doesn't surprise me you like them best lol, and AK makes fantastic products too especially there xtreme metal line of paints. Nice you got a new dehydrator things are a huge time saver, and I'm not sure why more folks don't invest in one to save time instead of waiting weeks or months for paint to dry and do something lol. I think i paid about $120 for mine but its large, but man being able to sand primer after a 20 min bake @ 115F its too nice. Can sand 2K clear after bout 4 hours @ 120F too nice. I know 115-120 sounds high, but I've never had a single issue at those temps. I think it's one of the better investments to a modelers bench or shop, unless you're old retried and got the patience of a saint lol.

According to the instructions on scalemates it is indeed motorized.

This isn't my pic, but i remember when ollie's had these and i bought 5 of these for $8.99 each and there a pretty sweet kit too. You can find these for like $20-30. I plan all building them each in different colors, while the 5th will probably be a donor for the other 4 lol

Probably have to swing by ollies now. I was going like every 2 weeks, but they haven't had anything all year. That classic cruiser looks pretty cool, except for the flames because flames are stupid.

Man i WISH that dodge wasn't a snap

What’s the quality like on that Benz?

Your pic matches the photoetch besides the bar in the center i doubt it'd be that noticeable once it's inside the actual part painted or not painted shadows would help with that. But there looks like there is different versions of the grille (or maybe the black painted version makes the vertical part stand out more) because this pic here is more on point with the kit part. The 2nd pic is on par with your pic. Either way would look great unless he is dead set on being perfect with it? Than might have to try and find a different option resin or something if it exist.

This is the best route if you don't wanna deal with trying to remove the symbols. Tamiya flat chisel would work pretty good at removing the lettering with patience.

No, but the one i had i kept to use as test parts because mine the body was warped a little and dents all over the body. The main parts weren't any better and just wasn't worth wasting materials on let alone expensive paint. I had got this one in its place. Not my pic, but much better kit as far as quality goes. To many options out there to settle for less so the virtue of time does not apply here for me, and that's just my opinion. Yeah there is a few folks on ebay selling them right now. I ordered one for $39 free ship.

No it's a great kit for testing tools, paint reactions, and weathering on.

See you got these early. I'm DEF getting one of these. Beautifully detailed sublime kit!

Really depends on how small the parts are. Good quality brushes, and good quality acrylics you could get away without priming on small parts especially if you're not using tape(tamiya) to mask anything. Depending on the color, I'll use tamiya's enamel paints for small parts or detail work because they dry quick and have great coverage. Depending on the primer if you use a good quality primer like tamiya or mr surfacer 1200-1500 you can prime anything and not worry about the loss of detail. Acrylics you got to be careful though because not every acrylic paint is a true acrylic i.e Tamiya XF line up vs Vallejo model color line up or just about everything vallejo along with other true acrylic brands. I usually only brush paint though if it's for fine details or if I'm working on a 1/48 scale or 1/700 scale because sometimes parts are so small it's just not worth loading up the airbrush.

Yeah paint has went up like every other scalper trying to get a piece of the pie. Only company i haven't seen go up is gravity color(spain), but i think the shipping went up. I can find tamiya and mr hobby locally, except tamiya's LP line up i have to order those online mainly the semi gloss black best semi gloss black I've used. I use MCW as a last option if i can't find the color any where else. I've yet to try dupli color touch up paint, but i may get some eventually and decant it. The price of that is still cheaper even scalefinishes is cheaper than MCW with shipping.

lol, I remember my first time going to hobbytown and i was looking for spazstix chrome. I found it and the lady that was behind the counter out of no where was like:" Those are airbrush paints", and i turned and looked at her and told her YES i know. Haven't seen that woman there ever sense lol, but there is still 2 girls and a guy that's rarely there they never bother anyone, and i never ask for help or anything because i know what I'm looking at and for. Sometimes the guy when he's there will rarely ask if i need glue as if I'm a kid and can't think for myself, but the 2 girls are clueless and just there for a pay check. Otherwise my hobbytown isn't that bad with a great selection of any kit, almost any paint, etc etc AND good lego sets once in a while. Mainly now IF i go to hobby lobby i will check and see if they have a sale on brushes and the car plague and stuff.