Dpate

If i get any on my clear coat i just use 91% alcohol and it takes it right off. That is a good idea as well to polish the sheet before hand. I use the tamiya Q-tips no fuzz left behind, but i may try the cotton cloth a go too so i can save on tamiya Q-tips cause they aren't cheap lol. Good tip!

I just got through compounding earlier, but still got to polish. 2k was ready to go after 4 hours @ 120F in the dehydrator. No need for 24 hours or weeks. Depending on the situation I'll use 2K grit, 3K grit, 5K grit all from 3M, and than i compound, polish, wax(wax is always last because BMF, etc). I use these with a mini dremel @ 2K rpms. Trying to compound and polish 2K you'll be there for days trying to cut with a a cloth n finger. I use orange(Medium cut) for compound, black(light cut) for polish, and yellow(No cut) for wax. These are SO much better than using polishing wheels.

I dig it. Looking at the pic it looks almost like a scion tc how the roof is low like that. Love the front grill though very clean and crisp. Big P-51 fighter except it has 4 legs lol.

Yeah i don't know anyone here either in the hobby, BUT i did meet one that worked at ollies. He was a cool dude until he said he buys all the kits when they get them after i asked him when ollies where getting kits in again. He instantly became de-friended in my head when i left ?

I'm sure a lot of people probably already know this - especially the folks that's been doing this before i was born, but it's about polishing the BMF. Just got through watching a video of a modeler who I'm subscribed to on youtube, and he didn't polish the BMF and said how it wasn't close to the chrome bumper. He was right the BMF didn't it looked like aluminum nothing like chrome. Anyways after you have the BMF laid down and burnished - you than take your Q-tip and keep going over the BMF, and you'll start to see your Q-tip turn black. Keep doing this and switching ends when it's too black, and if you keep at it for a couple mins you'll have nice chrome BMF. You don't even have to use alot of pressure let the Q-tip do its job and polish the BMF. Unless you're wanting that aluminum look? Than this will improve the look of BMF 100%. I just get irritated when i see folks do BMF on car bodies, and don't polish it up. It looks like new & improved aluminum instead of new & improved chrome lol.

First pic is bat mobile. Got that kit in my stash.

Yeah even though i have a few shops over an hour away i still order just about everything online.

Thanks! Pricey but i may have to get one of these one day.

Probably masked using a circle cutter to make circle masks. Just put your wheels on a kabob stick or similar and spin the wheel with your fingers as your paint. That will help from the paint bouncing around inside the rim as if it was stationary.

It looks more realistic than molotow IMO, but will look similar in certain situations. AK super chrome is on the same level as molotow, and it can be brushed on as well and actually dries faster than molotow and just as bright. I don't use there markers anymore at all, and would never buy another. You get more paint with green stuff world than you do in a molotow marker. Green stuff world isn't that much more expensive than other brands it's just the shipping makes it more pricey. If you want another brand to try besides the typical brands you could give kustom service chrome a try. It's $8 for 30mL bottle.

I can't suggest a red, but seems others gave some good references. I can suggest either tamiya or mr surfacer 1500 pink or white primer.

How clean is the resin on that bad boy?

I have 2 bottles of the stuff. It's nice chrome if applied properly. Chrome is crazy stuff cause after you use so many they start really looking the same lol. They have a non airbrush version too, but i use AK's super chrome for that instead of airbrush. I purchased my GSC through there ebay store - weather it's worth it or not that's subjective, because all these different types of chrome really only have a tiny tiny difference when you start comparing them. It is worth getting a bottle to try out for yourself though and see how you like it. It applies the same way alclad and any other chrome does.

No 100% airbrush ready to go. Low PSI with all there metals like chrome. 15-18PSI i shoot through a .2 needle.

Yeah that picture is of a real car it just has the wrinkling that i encountered lol. I'm so use to scale finishes and gravity colors automotive paints so i sprayed zero the same way which was light coats. I think my issue was not waiting long enough between coats. It's just weird it happened a little on the roof and good bit on the hood. Guess not waiting long enough and not going lighter on those area's i suppose. I even sprayed the zero paints on bare plastic on a test kit and it didn't affect it at all so it can't be that hot of a paint least the color I'm using. I was using the PS290 .5 needle and it can put out some paint with it's fan nozzle even at 18PSI, but i guess i wasn't light enough on the trigger lol. So i guess light speedy passes and 10 mins between coats until the color is there?

Thank you!

So I'm working on my Aoshima Toyota 2000GT and working on the body first. So did the usual stuff cleaned all imperfections etc and washed body the best you can using basic dawn dish soap. After a good dry and compressed air dry went to priming using Mr. surfacer(Which zero paints is compatible with) after that wet sanded with 3000grit from 3m. Next day mixed up zero paints paint really good with badger paint mixer than strained into PS290 color cup & pressure set to bout 17-18. Dusted model off with tamiya brush, and than started laying paint light coat, and than around the 3rd coat this is when i noticed the wrinkling on roof and hood. So i stopped painting and let it dry and tried to sand it out to no avail with 3000grit. So after looking over the body i noticed a issue on the bottom i missed so I'm glad this happened cause it gave me an excuse to strip the primer and paint which took no time at all 20 mins i was back to bare white plastic. I'll include a picture that is not mine because i did not think much to take a picture of the body, but luckily i was able to find a good pic of said issue. From what I've read it could be 1 of 2 things and that is 1. Chemical reaction 2. Not enough dry time between coats. Zero paints recommends 5-10 mins between coats and i def was only waiting like 2-3 mins. I doubt it was a chemical reaction. Also this only happened a little on the roof and about 2 ich surface around the middle of the hood. Sides and back of body was perfectly fine. Maybe the area's this happened at wasn't dry enough before i hit the next coat? Like the whole body didn't dry evenly and i rushed the next coat and boom wrinkling. Also i had forgot to wash the body after sanding and today when i starting painting and after everything was said and done i forgot i didn't wash the body after 3000grit sanding primer the previous day. Not sure if the dust particles from the primer caused a reaction? This has me very puzzled.

Haven't checked in NC either. I don't feel like driving over an hour to just get disappointed - my ole lady does that enough to me.

Pretty cool! But i felt some type of way watching it.

How's the quality of the fujimi? I have the tamiya version. What scale is it? Box looks huge compared to the tamiya version lol.

Yes i have to constantly check scalemates on kits i buy to see if it's the first version or the 20th reboxed version lol. I love older cars and don't mind a lot of the reissue's that come out because i don't have them. At the same time though i do agree that they do re-issue kits to much especially when it's just a new box. I wish tamiya, and other japan companies would produce cars like revell and amt does cause the quality is so much better. I'm only 33 and eventually this hobby will get stagnant for me when it comes to cars specifically , and only buying certain kits. This is why i don't just buy car kits - I have big rig tractor kits, motorcycle kits, few boat kits, fire truck kits, etc etc. I have enough kits in my hobby room that the rate that i work on them i would be 55 years old before everyone of them got finished LOL. Lot of kits i buy now are mostly older kits from tamiya or aoshima that look like that came out today. Far as inviting new folks in it's gonna be tough especially considering how todays world is cell phones etc etc. Most teenager/adults these days don't have an attention span longer than 20 secs lol thanks to tic toc. There is no way in the world most teenager/adults these days are gonna do what WE do with these model kits for a display model. I know i started in the hobby late, and the reason why i love this hobby and it's not because of paint or etc - it's because i love working with my hands and taking a box of plastic and making it look as close as possible to the 1:1 version. BUT if it wasn't for ollies having kits for $7 -$8, and me buying one just to see what it was about - i probably wouldn't be in the hobby today simply because i knew nothing about a model kit or any websites, and only hobby shops i have are over a hour away, and my main thing was mostly gaming and legos far as side hobbies go. But I'm pretty loyal to the hobby i even spent few grand to remodel my old bed room at my parents house and turned it into a model room, and now i have thousand's of dollars in airbrushes, paint, tools, and kits lol.

I would buy it in a heart beat. I'm not one stuck in the stone age.

I guess that could be possible, BUT doubt that.

I know the hood they sent me was still warped, but on the opposite side. So I have two hoods one warped on the left side, and one warped on the right side. The warpage is better on the replacement hood, but it’s still warped. Haven’t built the kit yet, but I’ll probably rubber band the hood to the body, and go at it with my mini heat gun or throw it in the dehydrator @120f.

Sweet! I've been wanting to get the grand cherokee. EDIT: Matter of fact just looked on ebay and found it brand new $54 that's with tax and shipping. It's the cheapest I've seen it on ebay so went ahead and got it.