Dpate

It was 2K i don't remember if it hurt it or not, but it will freak you out if that happens lol.

Yeah i stopped using his automotive body colors I just like his interior & engine colors. Automotive colors i will use scalefinishes, gravity colors(spain), splash, zero, and tamiya LP & TS.

Probably is the thinner in the paint. Probably why I had a horrible time with his grabber orange gloss lacquer awhile back. I do have tamiya lacquer retarder, but I also have plenty Mr hobby leveling thinner #1 stable in my hobby room. I didn’t thin it much when I did thin it though probably added half a ML or so. Should be able to thin it little bit more without any damage.

Yeah I have no issue with other paints inside interior tubs. I like MCW interior paints cause there nice, and do look the part when it’s on. They seem to just not like being sprayed in tight spots or the cob webs will start happening. I think this is why he recommends spraying wet coats and talks about how it’s difficult to make it run, but with a .5 needle and spraying wet coats I can make it run lol. If there sprayed on regular parts that aren’t close together the paints go on beautifully, and dry super quick. I think in future builds I’ll remember to thin the paint even more when spraying all in one interior tubs.

Probably will have to thin it more. Doesn’t do that with Tamiya LP or primer etc. It did do it in the seat too now that I remember right in the middle where the seat can fold, but that was easy to clean. I did try knocking the PSI down to 15, but that didn’t work either that’s before i thinned a little. Usually my hobby room is 34 humidity and 77-78F, but today it was 50 humidity and 77F. He does recommend only wet coats with his paint, but I like to build up the coats before I do a wet coat. But doesn’t matter how I spray it the Cotton candy effect or spider webs still happen. I’m guessing his paint just doesn’t like close spaces like interior tubs etc anywhere there is close space.

Well same thing happened with the MCW paint. Goes perfect on the spoon, but soon as i went for the interior tub it happened again just not as bad as it did the first time. I did add a little bit of leveling thinner to it, and same thing happened just not as bad. I may need to thin it some more, but i was able to easily clean it up this time unlike the first time. I'm going to contact the owner of MCW and let him know about the situation too, because i got 3 other interior colors along with the light grey and i haven't tried the other 3 yet so I'm hoping they wont do the same. It's no probable thinning i do it all the time, but i paid with shipping $45 for 4 paints i shouldn't have to be thinning anything that is already suppose to be pre-thinned perfectly.

This hasn't happened to me, but i a modeler i watch on youtube. He uses 2 clear small plastic bottles one with water and another with mr hobby leveling thinner in it. We know what the leveling thinner is used for, but he'll use the water to spray down the body to get out polish etc. They do have labels, but he accidently grabbed the wrong one and sprayed leveling thinner all over a completed body that was 2Ked lol. Bottles where turned backwards, and leveling thinner looks like water, and had them both together so i can see how that mistake could happen.

I think one of my biggest so far would be when i used a molotow chrome marker for the first time on a script....lets just say i no longer use molotow chrome markers.

I know this method from you because I've seen your post before and it's a great technique. But i simply said what i said because I've seen other folks use the method he did to avoid getting residue on the body from the BMF but with tamiya not sure what kind of tape he used lol.

I think my two hobby lobbys that are a good hour away are suppose to be getting most of the new kits. I wouldn't mind having that Z28 and 70 plymouth from revell, but with 40% off. I know hobby lobby need to up there tool and paint selection though it's trash.

What was the point of the tape? To try and get no residue of the BMF on the body? That's very easy to clean off if you were to get residue on the body, and also why not tamiya tape? Doubt that would of happened with tamiya tape.

Yes that's what I'm leaning on more too is i didn't mix it good enough. I just mixed it with good ole shaking instead of using my badger mixer or four E's mixer, but 2nd time i mixed it i used the four E's mixer along with straining it and the cotton candy effect was gone at least on the test spoons. But I' am gonna test more and keep the pose updated. Thank you for your help! Gonna do more testing before thinning. I think mixing it better the 2nd time let the thinner and pigment combine better. If i do have to thin what thinner do you recommend for MCW paint?

I spray it the same way i do all there other interior colors bout 2 inches away around 18-20 PSI, and there already pre-thinned doubt he sent a bottle with not enough thinner lol. But after mixing it even better and straining it the effect stopped same pressure same distance etc. It's not cobweb in the paint, but it's actually on the surface like the cotton candy pic. But just think of like how dust webs can get in a corner of a wall and you touch it. That's this effect going on not actual spider webbing in the paint. Thank you for the suggestions though.

Okay I'm going to try and explain this the best i can, because I' am not sure as to why this happened and with this specific color as it hasn't happened with any of there other colors or any other type of paint or brand. So I'm getting ready to use the light grey interior color on the interior tub (which was primed) bottle was mixed good and used pipette to put good bit into the color cup. Using a Iwata eclipse brush and was deep cleaned day before the use of paint. Anyways i start spraying the inside of the interior tub mainly the door card sides and rear seat, and as I'm painting i start seeing thin web like material little on the outside of the tub just floating. So i just blow it away thinking hmm maybe long piece of lent or something - so i get back to painting and than i continue to see it coming out from the inside of the tub. So I'm like what in the F is going on lol, and i start looking at the door cards and rear seat and it looks like the inside of a cotton candy bowl(Pic below). I'm like so that's where it's coming from the air from the brush is blowing some of it out, and it was even on the end of my brush. So it looked horrible and using a brush would remove some of it but ended up leading to a strip. So i test on some spoons and did 3 spoons all 3 ended up with the stringy web like material but small, and now I'm like sigh okay lets clean out the air brush again cause maybe the shop towel lint maybe stuck some where and contaminating the paint. Clean out airbrush 100% and couldn't find any lent etc. Fast forward I'm 6 test spoons down with this wild phenomenon happening -So i tried one last thing, and that was to really make sure the paint was mixed, and strain the paint. So i mix the paint this time the best it'll ever get mixed and than used my AK colorcup paint strainer, and then got out 3 more white spoons. Sprayed all 3 spoons 100% perfect not a single cotton candy web like stuff or anything. So now i ask the question - how & why did this happen? This light grey cotton candy phenomenon lol. Has this happened to anyone else with any type of paint? How could straining the paint maybe of fixed the issue? I'm lost, confused, and puzzled ??????????

I have some of this but stopped using it because it would come out and not stop coming out lol not sure what happened.

Gotta order it

I use this along with other glue products.

Mod podge, Micro Kristal Klear Adheisive, Bobs gold+, canopy glue, Vms transpa fix 6K, and Ak ultra glue. Lot of great options to choose from.

Yeah i forgot to mention that. That's a must for small parts lol.

What are you cutting the photoetch on? Fresh blade should easily pop a photoetch part loose doesn't take that much force. I use a small glass cutting mat that i got from hobby lobby to cut photoetch parts off, and than photoetch scissors to trim the rest, and than tamiya photoetch file if needed. Depending on the photoetch I'll use just the scissors to cut the part off cause they fit properly. Don't cut decals or try and cut photoetch parts off on a self healing mat or any mat. The cut on the decals wont be as smooth, and you could damage the photoetch parts as well.

I got that kit it's nice. When i went to HL they had that kit for $37.99 i laughed because i would never pay that for that kit even with a sale.

I use 2mm tamiya scriber for lines and tamiya's 20 degree needle scriber for curves such as gas lids etc. I had a 1mm tamiya scriber but the tip broke.....don't ask lol.

Yeah it requires assembly, but I think they have a die cast version of it not made by moebius though. And yeah the one you got someone did a fantastic job on it looks really good. My favorite Batmobile though is the 1989 version even though the original is good looking machine too.

I have that kit. It’s made by polar lights. Very nice detailed kit least the one I got is. The bat mobile from the new movies is pretty nice too made by mobius.

I just left hobby lobby today. They were on sale as well, but every kit they had i already got lol. They had one clearance kit and few empty holes I'm assuming was clearance kits. The kit that was on clearance was some slammer kit from revell i think it was for $5. Should of bought it to resell on ebay, but i did buy a glass cutting matt though.