Dpate

I use this along with other glue products.

Mod podge, Micro Kristal Klear Adheisive, Bobs gold+, canopy glue, Vms transpa fix 6K, and Ak ultra glue. Lot of great options to choose from.

Yeah i forgot to mention that. That's a must for small parts lol.

What are you cutting the photoetch on? Fresh blade should easily pop a photoetch part loose doesn't take that much force. I use a small glass cutting mat that i got from hobby lobby to cut photoetch parts off, and than photoetch scissors to trim the rest, and than tamiya photoetch file if needed. Depending on the photoetch I'll use just the scissors to cut the part off cause they fit properly. Don't cut decals or try and cut photoetch parts off on a self healing mat or any mat. The cut on the decals wont be as smooth, and you could damage the photoetch parts as well.

I got that kit it's nice. When i went to HL they had that kit for $37.99 i laughed because i would never pay that for that kit even with a sale.

I use 2mm tamiya scriber for lines and tamiya's 20 degree needle scriber for curves such as gas lids etc. I had a 1mm tamiya scriber but the tip broke.....don't ask lol.

Yeah it requires assembly, but I think they have a die cast version of it not made by moebius though. And yeah the one you got someone did a fantastic job on it looks really good. My favorite Batmobile though is the 1989 version even though the original is good looking machine too.

I have that kit. It’s made by polar lights. Very nice detailed kit least the one I got is. The bat mobile from the new movies is pretty nice too made by mobius.

I just left hobby lobby today. They were on sale as well, but every kit they had i already got lol. They had one clearance kit and few empty holes I'm assuming was clearance kits. The kit that was on clearance was some slammer kit from revell i think it was for $5. Should of bought it to resell on ebay, but i did buy a glass cutting matt though.

Yeah he's stated plenty of times he doesn't try to build perfectly or anything considering all the kits and reviews he does. I really just watch to see what kit content looks like, and the ones he reviews are always really good. Of course I'll buy the same kit and have more flash than you can flick a finger at lol. His methods might not be the best, but he still puts out good looking models even better than half the mess i see posted on hobbylinc lol.

I've used finish 1. gravity colors(spain), and no name brand from spray gunners. Those 3 2K clears I've never had an issue with.

So I went to the hobby room today and there was a package left on my chair. No idea what is was, and the writing on the back made me chuckle. So I opened it and I was like woah how did they know? I never asked for a 2nd replacement. But I test fitted the new hood and it’s perfect no warpage. So are they lurking on the forums? Or they knew the other hood they sent was bad, and recent a new one? So now I have 2 warped hoods and a perfect hood lol.

See how your hood is warped? That’s how mine was that came with the kit, and the replacement they sent was the same way but on the opposite side lol.

Yeah he's back up and running. Apparently a website outage.

Some of these are known I'm sure, but there are some good tips and tricks in this video. This guy also does great work on models. 19 Tips and Tricks for Scale Modelers

Beautiful work Roger. Will this work with 2K clear as well or basically works with everything?

Haven't been able to access the site in 2 days now. 404 error. Has he changed sites or what?

Yeah ollie's here 0 kits all year. Same as you said nothing but toys and no kits. I go like every 2 weeks to see if they got anything in, and they do but it's not car kits. Some scooby doo airplane revell kit, and lame start wars revell kit.

Recent car body i had to strip because i burnt through a spot which was my own fault. Accidently got my thumb in the clear coat so i after it was cured i tried getting the mess out which lead to over sanding. When i burnt through it was on the polishing stage and it was on that one spot where i over sanded which i knew would happen, but i still went for it anyways. If you have to sand and don't over sand it's impossible to burn through unless you just don't know what you're doing. I'm getting better at laying 2K down with zero orange peel to the point where I'll start just compounding if needed or straight to polish and wax. Honestly if i wouldn't of went over board with the compounding (1 round instead of 2) when i don't think it was really needed i wouldn't of even burnt through that rough spot i had over sanded(Less mill of clear in that spot than the rest of the body). I had a show room quality finish on the toyota 2000GT body man it was gorgeous nothing i could ever do by hand. This next go round i wont get my thumb stuck in the clear coat LOL.

Can you even remotely tell a difference doing that? I guess it could shrink more if you're not baking them, but just imagine waiting 2-3 weeks just to polish/buff some clear to accidently burn through lol. I just don't think you could notice the different on such a small scale. Very interesting though about the clear.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HT1QC2C?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details for the pads but you'll need this also for the shank which comes with 2 and lot of cool extra's. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FXDP7S6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Looking good man. I'm thinking about getting a small thick PVC pipe with a flat endcap to hold my bodies like you got in the pic. While the tamiya stand is nice it's honestly too small for my hands and it just causes me to many issues makes it harder to paint. I need something that i can hold in the center and be able to put in the dehydrator.

I prefer tamiya, hasagawa, aoshima, trumperter, and mobius because of quality and fitment. But i do like amt, revell, revell germany and others because of subject. MPC is trash that is all.

If you're talking about for the decal film product than yes. Brush it on evenly, and let it dry, and than apply as usual.