Dpate

Haven't been able to access the site in 2 days now. 404 error. Has he changed sites or what?

Yeah ollie's here 0 kits all year. Same as you said nothing but toys and no kits. I go like every 2 weeks to see if they got anything in, and they do but it's not car kits. Some scooby doo airplane revell kit, and lame start wars revell kit.

Recent car body i had to strip because i burnt through a spot which was my own fault. Accidently got my thumb in the clear coat so i after it was cured i tried getting the mess out which lead to over sanding. When i burnt through it was on the polishing stage and it was on that one spot where i over sanded which i knew would happen, but i still went for it anyways. If you have to sand and don't over sand it's impossible to burn through unless you just don't know what you're doing. I'm getting better at laying 2K down with zero orange peel to the point where I'll start just compounding if needed or straight to polish and wax. Honestly if i wouldn't of went over board with the compounding (1 round instead of 2) when i don't think it was really needed i wouldn't of even burnt through that rough spot i had over sanded(Less mill of clear in that spot than the rest of the body). I had a show room quality finish on the toyota 2000GT body man it was gorgeous nothing i could ever do by hand. This next go round i wont get my thumb stuck in the clear coat LOL.

Can you even remotely tell a difference doing that? I guess it could shrink more if you're not baking them, but just imagine waiting 2-3 weeks just to polish/buff some clear to accidently burn through lol. I just don't think you could notice the different on such a small scale. Very interesting though about the clear.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HT1QC2C?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details for the pads but you'll need this also for the shank which comes with 2 and lot of cool extra's. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FXDP7S6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Looking good man. I'm thinking about getting a small thick PVC pipe with a flat endcap to hold my bodies like you got in the pic. While the tamiya stand is nice it's honestly too small for my hands and it just causes me to many issues makes it harder to paint. I need something that i can hold in the center and be able to put in the dehydrator.

I prefer tamiya, hasagawa, aoshima, trumperter, and mobius because of quality and fitment. But i do like amt, revell, revell germany and others because of subject. MPC is trash that is all.

If you're talking about for the decal film product than yes. Brush it on evenly, and let it dry, and than apply as usual.

If i get any on my clear coat i just use 91% alcohol and it takes it right off. That is a good idea as well to polish the sheet before hand. I use the tamiya Q-tips no fuzz left behind, but i may try the cotton cloth a go too so i can save on tamiya Q-tips cause they aren't cheap lol. Good tip!

I just got through compounding earlier, but still got to polish. 2k was ready to go after 4 hours @ 120F in the dehydrator. No need for 24 hours or weeks. Depending on the situation I'll use 2K grit, 3K grit, 5K grit all from 3M, and than i compound, polish, wax(wax is always last because BMF, etc). I use these with a mini dremel @ 2K rpms. Trying to compound and polish 2K you'll be there for days trying to cut with a a cloth n finger. I use orange(Medium cut) for compound, black(light cut) for polish, and yellow(No cut) for wax. These are SO much better than using polishing wheels.

I dig it. Looking at the pic it looks almost like a scion tc how the roof is low like that. Love the front grill though very clean and crisp. Big P-51 fighter except it has 4 legs lol.

Yeah i don't know anyone here either in the hobby, BUT i did meet one that worked at ollies. He was a cool dude until he said he buys all the kits when they get them after i asked him when ollies where getting kits in again. He instantly became de-friended in my head when i left ?

I'm sure a lot of people probably already know this - especially the folks that's been doing this before i was born, but it's about polishing the BMF. Just got through watching a video of a modeler who I'm subscribed to on youtube, and he didn't polish the BMF and said how it wasn't close to the chrome bumper. He was right the BMF didn't it looked like aluminum nothing like chrome. Anyways after you have the BMF laid down and burnished - you than take your Q-tip and keep going over the BMF, and you'll start to see your Q-tip turn black. Keep doing this and switching ends when it's too black, and if you keep at it for a couple mins you'll have nice chrome BMF. You don't even have to use alot of pressure let the Q-tip do its job and polish the BMF. Unless you're wanting that aluminum look? Than this will improve the look of BMF 100%. I just get irritated when i see folks do BMF on car bodies, and don't polish it up. It looks like new & improved aluminum instead of new & improved chrome lol.

First pic is bat mobile. Got that kit in my stash.

Yeah even though i have a few shops over an hour away i still order just about everything online.

Thanks! Pricey but i may have to get one of these one day.

Probably masked using a circle cutter to make circle masks. Just put your wheels on a kabob stick or similar and spin the wheel with your fingers as your paint. That will help from the paint bouncing around inside the rim as if it was stationary.

It looks more realistic than molotow IMO, but will look similar in certain situations. AK super chrome is on the same level as molotow, and it can be brushed on as well and actually dries faster than molotow and just as bright. I don't use there markers anymore at all, and would never buy another. You get more paint with green stuff world than you do in a molotow marker. Green stuff world isn't that much more expensive than other brands it's just the shipping makes it more pricey. If you want another brand to try besides the typical brands you could give kustom service chrome a try. It's $8 for 30mL bottle.

I can't suggest a red, but seems others gave some good references. I can suggest either tamiya or mr surfacer 1500 pink or white primer.

How clean is the resin on that bad boy?

I have 2 bottles of the stuff. It's nice chrome if applied properly. Chrome is crazy stuff cause after you use so many they start really looking the same lol. They have a non airbrush version too, but i use AK's super chrome for that instead of airbrush. I purchased my GSC through there ebay store - weather it's worth it or not that's subjective, because all these different types of chrome really only have a tiny tiny difference when you start comparing them. It is worth getting a bottle to try out for yourself though and see how you like it. It applies the same way alclad and any other chrome does.

No 100% airbrush ready to go. Low PSI with all there metals like chrome. 15-18PSI i shoot through a .2 needle.

Yeah that picture is of a real car it just has the wrinkling that i encountered lol. I'm so use to scale finishes and gravity colors automotive paints so i sprayed zero the same way which was light coats. I think my issue was not waiting long enough between coats. It's just weird it happened a little on the roof and good bit on the hood. Guess not waiting long enough and not going lighter on those area's i suppose. I even sprayed the zero paints on bare plastic on a test kit and it didn't affect it at all so it can't be that hot of a paint least the color I'm using. I was using the PS290 .5 needle and it can put out some paint with it's fan nozzle even at 18PSI, but i guess i wasn't light enough on the trigger lol. So i guess light speedy passes and 10 mins between coats until the color is there?

Thank you!