Dpate

Nice models, but i love those cabinets.

Did you try wet sanding the outline with 3000 grit pad? 3M 3000 grit trizact is nice to use and try.

Just looks like another generic chrome pin. You're better off getting one of the gundom chrome plate pins or molotow from hobby lobby.

I've never used future, but long as it's cured and tape is de tacked it shouldn't remove the future. You could always do a test on a spoon or test piece. Coat or two of future let it cure, and than tape test. If that passes than test TS-13 on it, and see if that passes. Lot of variables to go on even if someone may say it's okay etc. Something like this is where i would do testing and have patience instead of depending on someone's definite answer of yes or no. You could always use micro set to remove the decals, but you'd have to take your time with that without messing them up since you already have SOL on it.

Yeah there expensive in the states for some weird reason. There cheap on plazajapan and that's where i get a lot of my tools from when i do a big order. Those HiQparts scribers are $16 on there, and I'm gonna get there smaller size ones as well. It's not even just there tools too it's there tape and cotton swabs etc just very expensive in the states. $2 pack of tape is bout $6 in the state, $2 pack of swabs bout $5-$6, and list goes on and on. I only paid bout $20 for mine with the holder which would of cost me bout $40 in the states. I just LOVE japan made products great quality stuff.

wow those distributors look really nice. Gonna check them out.

You bought the wrong tamiya tool, but there are tons of different scribing tools on the market. The one i use is by tamiya, but you'll pay about $25-$30 for it in the states. The one is the pic is a 0.2mm engraving tool for scribing. HiQparts has a few from 0.04mm and up as well.

I know last time i used stynylrez it liked to go on wet and self level like tamiya's primer. I've tried a lot of primers, and always go back to Mr. Surfacer as my main primer. Thinned with Mr. leveling thinner or rapid thinner < if you want a faster drying flat finish 1:1 or 2:1< 2 parts thinner 1 part paint. I always eye ball my mixes though, basically you know it's mixed right when you take your pipette to mix with up the side of the mixing cup, and you see it run down not too fast, and not too opaque can kind of see through it little bit. That's more on the 2:1 ratio side of things the way I'm explaining it, and through a Iwata esclipse .5 20 PSI light coats with a final medium wet coat, and self levels to a beautiful satin finish. There 1500 black is the best black primer I've seen, and it can actually save you from using separate black paint it's that good on its own. Ammo by mig titans hobby matt primer is fantastic too, but it can craze if you aren't careful unless you decant it. But if i had to choose 1 primer and 2 thinners only to use for the rest of my life that would be Mr. Surfacer, Mr. leveling thinner, and Rapid thinner because it has it uses. Here is a pic of all there primers, but it's missing there PINK though.

Surfacer will work best with mr leveling thinner. Thinned and sprayed right it lays down silky smooth with no sanding needed.

I think Tamiya LP-3 would of been a better choice. But if there selling like that I got ton of model master paint colors brand new except black. Also a can of there aluminum plate buffing metalizer 3 oz can.

I avoid anything MPC and recently Atlantis.

We all know pimp my ride was/is the best car show LOL. Who wants a fish tank in the back?

Yeah the bottom should be on top. Looks like the machine or whatever they use not in sync or something.

Yeah just look at Can-Con pic. Crazing in the middle and orange peel at the bottom. I can't be of much help on there clears, because i use 2K clearcoat.

Well that explains it

These came in today. Man James from scalefinishes is one awesome guy here's why? I ordered 2 Toyota Cavalry blue by mistake, and meant to get the Vintage violet pearl. There was a $3 price difference, but i told him just keep the difference for good service (Past experience) - instead of him keeping that $3 he gave me the BL-1 at a discount for $2 which goes for $8 on his site, and replaced the 2nd bottle of Cavalry blue with the violet pearl like i asked. Also got a 15% discount code off next order, and now if that isn't great service i don't know what is. The Dodge Smoke show is for the charger R/T which after looking through the kit the quality and detail is really good, but there still room for improvement like how the gate attachments are one of the windshield wipers has 5 gate attachments on it which is non sense lol. There are other gate attachments on the sprue that could be better, and the tires are lacking even though the tread pattern is nice they aren't branded like they are on the box. The kit is very nice though and loaded with parts for detail and 2 sets of rims and it gets a A- from me. I recommend this kit to anyone that want's a sweet 21 dodge charger R/T on display fan or not.

I think there primer doesn't exist anymore least around here.

Yeah it's definitely latex. When it's put on properly it's great stuff, and comes off the parts easy with no residue.

Oh okay. Na it’s not metal. Comes with chrome metal handle bar etc, but everything else plastic.

What's metl?

This is the kit i was talking about. Guy wants almost $700 for it lol. There is another one on there for almost $800. I would LOVE to own this kit someday, but I'll never pay that kind of money for it.

Yeah i started in this hobby using a airbrush the iwata eclipse to be exact and now i own 4 air brushes. You really don't have to practice with both size needles, because whatever you can do with a .3 you can do with a .5. Only difference is a .5 can allow thicker paints to go through with less thinning, and is great for certain metallic paints etc. That would be kind of annoying changing the needle packing etc each time lol. You can always adjust the adjuster on the end of the brush too that'll help with trigger control. Scalefinishes paints are easy to paint, but an easier approach would of been Tamiya X-XF line up or there best line up there LP series. There paint's are very forgiving especially thinned with mr leveling thinner - it'll make any rookie look like a pro lol. If you're ever in the market for the best semi-gloss black that'll be Tamiya's LP-5 in my humble opinion.

Last time i used a brush with it i got it out the brush by using back end of xacto blade, and pulling through the hairs, but it will still mess up the brush. Either use disposable brushes that are cheap or disposable micro brushes or silicone brushes < comes off super easy on those.

.3 or .5 wont matter just means more paint flow with a .5, but it's all about the trigger control too and technique. I own that brush and use it daily and upgraded mine to a .5 as well even though it's not needed for regular paint it helps with primer etc. If you're spraying wet that means you're either too close or you're pulling to far back on the trigger. If you're serious about airbrushing especially with a dual action brush a good technique to learn is not treating it like a single action. What i mean is you push down for air, and pull back for paint, and instead of letting go of the trigger you keep it pressed down, and push forwards. You always have the air going never letting off the air. It's a muscle memory and can be tricky to learn at first, but once you get it - it'll be like 2nd nature to you. But again down for air pull back for paint and back forward for air never letting go of the trigger doing that one steady motion as you're painting. Do you have any other paint's to use for airbrushing that you can thin down or already airbrush ready? That way you don't waste expensive paint.

Bondo filler will work too or even sprue goo.