Dpate

Never was part of any fish forums even though I'm part of that hobby myself. But the worst I've seen is the PC building community - there's so many elitists it's unreal.

I have the Tamiya pin vise and there drill bits all sizes. I would love some god hand drill bits.

Yeah I've done it with 91% with no issues. I've also used a weathering carrier product thats for removing weathering products and specific glue etc with no problems. That's for the BMF, but molotov not sure. 2K is tough stuff though so i doubt you'd hurt anything.

I'm not sure how or why that works, but i know the airbrush version never gave me any issues over alclad black base. That's the only gloss black base i use for everything chrome or metallics that needs it. Glosses up like no bodies business, and don't even need a lot of it. I have tried spaz stix black base before though, before finding alclad's gloss black base, and i couldn't get the spax stix black base to gloss up. The 2 bottles i had of it i threw in the trash, and never looked back. SMS is great stuff so if there chrome works for you, and give you the results you want? Than that's all that matter.

Have you tried alclads gloss black base? Spaz stix works great over that.

Got these on clearance at wally world. $7 bucks good deal as i would of never paid full price for it. $10 is a great deal for the mixer as it's my 2nd one.

Yeah I think I’ve seen them here and there with a .5. I had got mine off Amazon new and it came with a .3 so maybe there’s two versions of the same brush out lol. I’ve even seen them packaged with the air hose too, with other extra stuff.

Yeah the eclipse is a power house for the price. Mines still going strong after almost 2 years, and never had to change a O ring. I did convert mine to a .5 though, but thinking of getting another one eventually to have a .3. I probably should just use my PS-290 procon more since it’s a .5 with fan pattern nozzle, and just convert my eclipse back to a .3 lol. If you’re ever in the market for a .2 the procon PS-270 is fantastic, and only $100 at spray gunner. I use it strictly for super thin metallics chrome etc. procon series made in the same factory as iwata in Japan so all great quality.

Got this at ollies. WOW it has so many amazing vehicles and nice detailed pictures and information on them. Pretty good for small references, and of course i took a pic of my fav car Looks alot nicer in person - nice glossy pages with over 1000 images.

You and me both man. I would LOVE to have this kit as well, but it's so expensive sigh.

RIP Wayne ?

I know aoshima will not ship spare parts or anything to the states by order unless you're a business. I remember someone on here mentioned about some kit on here can't remember which one, but for folks to check there kits to see if they had a warped windshield. I already had this kit for months, and checked it, and sho nuf windshield was warped because of how it was molded. They sent me a whole chrome tree and new glass parts that i didn't even ask for all for free.

Iwata airbrushes are made out of Japan. From my understanding there made in the same factory

Yeah that would def be fool - proof lol

I generally dry sand everything except when it comes to clear coat. I always wet sand especially when going higher grits, and it doesn't take a lot of water. To much water can actually hinder sanding performance for example micro mesh using to much water can work against itself, and i would never use that type of sandpaper dry always wet. But if you're getting the results you want dry sanding than do just that - because there's no set in stone rule that you have to wet sand. It's all just preference like how you're using novus and i use meguiars ultimate compound.

If you want factory colors for older cars etc than MCW & scalefinishes is the way to go. Shipping from gravity colors in spain isn't that expensive, and there paint averages around $5 for a 30ml bottle. There customer service is great too replaced a broken bottle of paint that happened during shipment no questions asked. I think GC in spain parted ways with the guy in USA, but i could be wrong cause he rips people off, and never sends any product. But since OP only does hotrods etc GC wouldn't really serve his purpose when it comes to options.

I paint in 35%-40% humidity, but that's inside. Since you're having issues with Tamiya i would take the humidity down, and do some tests on spare parts if you can. Also warm the cans up like you were doing, and make sure to really shake them, and than spray as usual. Keep about 10 inches away from the part, 2-3 mist coats..1 medium coat...1 medium wet coat. That's with 5-10 mins apart, and you are waiting between coats right?

Tamiya TS sprays & there primer is not the issue. You're probably spraying the last coat too wet too close, but you just need medium wet coat as Tamiya likes to go on wet and self level. Also where are you spraying? Inside or outside? Temp & humidity is good to know about especially if you're gonna use a clear in a can.

Gravity colors spain is the legit folks as the USA folks will scam you. Gravity colors, splash paints, MCW, scalefinishes, zero paints, and few others are all airbrush ready paints. There automotive brush ready paints and are hot paints, and you need a good quality primer for them. You'd be wise to test on something other than your main project until you got the hang of these type of paints, because they can damage plastic if you aren't careful.

You could go over it with regular primer weather it's surfacer or tamiya, but base white can act like a primer it just doesn't have the same filling properties as the others. I applied it same way i would surfacer - basically roughing up the surface 600 or 800 grit, and applied it the same as surfacer and it sands the same. Never had a issue with it rubbing off as it's basically surfacer just highly pigmented. You could go the silver route as well.

Yes I've seen it done on a plane propeller doing a wood grain finish with acrylics, and than took and made a oil paint wash, and used that over the propeller. I would be in the same boat as you as i only use automotive lacquers for car bodies. I'm not sure how fast it would dissolve, but it would damage the finish for sure. Most of the weathering i see done on lacquer is using either enamel or acrylic based washes etc. You can't use try other products or you just prefer oil paint weathering? I think the only way mineral spirits would be safe on lacquer is if it's done over a clear coat. You could try turpentine to thin the oil paint because turpentine wont dissolve lacquer, but i would test on something first. It's safer on lacquer than spirits, and would soften it a little, but i wouldn't dissolve it like spirits would.

ooooooooooweeeeeeeeee those look nice. Def keep sharp blades away lol.

Yeah i wouldn't use oil paint and mineral spirits on lacquer unless you did a flat clear coat. I know oil paints thinned down as a wash works great on acrylics. In my situation a good example even though it's different from yours - would be like lets say a rim? In the picture below what i would do in that situation would be paint the rim silver lacquer basecoat, and than an acrylic black like tamiya on top. Once dry you would take acrylic thinner on a q-tip, and slowly remove the black on the edges leaving just the silver. Is this bout the same idea you're asking about with compatibility? I know enamel thinner doesn't hurt lacquer long as you're easy with it. If i was that unsure I'd do a test spoon done in lacquer, and start doing little bit of weathering on it with the oil paint n spirits. Sorry I'm just not to sure about all the compatibilities there are when it comes to weathering.

I have the air brush version and it'll take about 3 coats to cover, but you wont get any bleed through like you could with the regular version primer. It's not the same as there surfacer, but can be used the same as surfacer, and it's more pigmented than regular surfacer. Here is a quote about the product: Mr.Base White is useful for making a black, red or other dark-colored surface white. This newly developed product uses special pigments to completely hide the base color and aids application of detailed finishing and top coats. Because it also works as a surfacer, it can be used to hide small imperfections.

Yeah i always put it back into the dehydrator after clear to keep it free of dust etc. If I'm not going to do anything after clear coating that day - i just leave it till next day no heat, and it'll be ready. 30 mins at the temps i use, but if it's gloss lacquer i would probably go bout 1 or 2 hours. Automotive lacquer paints already dry super fast so 30 mins or less @ 115 degrees it'll be ready for clear. 30 mins to an hour for all the lacquers i use tamiya, zero paints, scalefinishes, gravity colors, alclad, few others. I say to a hour because most of the time after it's done drying i still leave the parts in as I'm working on something else, but there's nothing wrong letting it bake longer if you want, but you don't have to wait 8 hours or 24 hours that's for sure. I've had 2K clear cured in 4 hours @ 120 degree's, and sand, and work on polish same day. So there's no way lacquer etc needs to take hours n hours n hours to dry with a dehydrator @ 115-120 degrees, and the melting point of the plastic we deal with is like over 200+F. I'm not knocking anyone else though if it sounds that way? I'm just stating what works for me, and you can always do some tests by spraying some junk parts or spoons , and put them in the dehydrator, and try different times/temps for different paints etc. The dehydrator zippi showed is a good one that alot of folks have even though mines different. All these food dehydrators in the $100+ range are all the same when it comes to how the heat is done inside the chamber. Allows heat to do full 360 inside the chamber allowing the heat to fully surround whatever is in evenly drying unlike the ones from micro mark where the heat rises from bottom to top where the top is the hottest point.