Casey

Click here to see the bubbletops --> POP!

You might try to contact Dean Milano, John, as he has/had an original store display base at one time.

Hey now, don't leave Jon Baker's GMC stepside 4x4 out of this... Meh, close enough:

Please post in the existing troubleshooting topic: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=81824

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=76501&hl=%2Bdart+%2Bmpc

Perfect, Aaron, thanks.

Yes, it was unstable to say the least, and Gabelich ended up in a hospital bed- "While four-wheel-drive had been tested – most famously and successfully on Tommy Ivo’s four-engine Showboat – it didn’t work for Gabelich, and the car was destroyed on its maiden outing at Orange County Int’l Raceway in early 1972, severely injuring the world’s fastest man in the process." http://www.nhra.com/blog/blog.aspx?BlogAlias=dragster-insider&BlogPostYear=2011&BlogPostMonth=12&BlogPostDay=6&BlogPostAlias=getting-our-rears-in-gear&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1

I'm tagging onto this post since my question is about batteries on big trucks/tractors. I'm thinking of using the battery boxes from the AMT Ford LN Hauler kit, but I'm not sure how many batteries each box would've contained on a real truck of similar size/weight. It appears three typical automotive batteries (in the image below, two from the AMT '60 Chevy pickup kit, with room for a third) would fit inside, but I'm assuming a big truck would use larger batteries, perhaps only being able to fit two per battery box? Was there anything special (external appearance-wise) regarding big truck batteries compared to a typical automotive battery? Are the cell caps similar, too? Always top terminals? How many batteries is typical? Two? Four? I guess it would depend upon what else is mounted on or to the truck which would require extra batteries, so maybe two is typical, with more added as the electrical demand increases? Here's what I'm thinking of using: *edit* Here is the battery box and four batteries from the AMT GMC Astro 95 kit, and they are definitely larger than the above batteries, so I think I have my answer.

4WD on a dragster? Ask Gary Gabelich how well that works.

You couldn't find PA license plates? Looks good, Jon. Are you planning to build another one?

Did this kit previously contain a different aftermarket wheel, as pictured on the box's side?: I forget the make and model of these particular wheels, but I think I've seen them on other AMT kits, perhaps the '65(?) Riviera or kits with Gene Winfield's involvement?

AMT PP013, Muscle Car "Red Line" Tires, due in March 2015. Four F60-15 and four L60-15:

Please post your list of members with whom you've had a positive trading experience, as well as those who you would not recommend trading with in this topic. Feedback, both good and bad, helps everyone know who is and isn't a reliable, trustworthy trader.

I'm betting it's going to be 1/25 scale, and it won't share any design with the existing 1/24 scale Monogram GM G-body Buick and Chevy kits. I'm also going to guess a second version, very similar to the second '90 Mustang LX kit, will follow a year or so after the first version.

Slightly different a I think they went to ball joints up front by then. I think Dave Van posted this link to the trunnion front suspension setup in the Gremlin review topic, but there's really nothing in kit form quite like it: http://worldpowersystems.com/AMC/Front-suspension/index.html

I suspect it disappeared with the other during the Thanksgiving forum server switchover. LOVE the white wheels which match the low-line white painted grille.

There's not going to be much of anything, as the '59 was of unibody construction, not separate body-on-frame construction. JO-HAN did release this promo to showcase AMC's new unibody construction, though:

I used white resin to fill in the equalizing beams' recesses a bit, allowing me to cover the two ejector pin marks present in each recess, instead of needing to scrape and sand the marks away. The still-liquid resin is able to flow and seek its own level, and a little bit of surface tension inside the recess was a good thing, too, as the recesses ended up with nice and smooth: I also filed and sanded the brass bushing at both ends of the beams to the correct width, so once the brackets on the axle housings are fine-tuned for width, I'll test fit everything together. The center bushing below has yet to be cut to length: I almost finished the front leaf springs, and luckily both main leaves ended up the same length. Always good when that happens. I added some small brass rod inside each main springs' front eye, loosely bolted both front spring ends in place, then cut and stacked the remaining leaves: I will go back and fine-tune the arch of each leaf, but I was able to drill the holes for the center bolt drilled through each leaf on one side, then re-stack and bolt them all together for a test fit...some tweaking will be necessary.

One can never have too many uptops.

First, the previous topic from when this kit was pitched by IMC, which sadly, never came to pass: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=48411&page=1 I guess this is a good sign for the ex-JO-HAN (then almost IMC) 1/25 '59 Rambler Cross Country Wagon kit finally being available: http://www.megahobby.com/59rambler-modelking.aspx Not sure if anyone involved with this kit can comment or not, but I'll take a tentative release date of April 2015 from MegaHobby as good news. MegaHobby is using the IMCbox art image, so I'm hoping Sean Svendsen will be involved if there is to be new box art for the Moebius/Model King version: Cue the "I'll believe it when I see it!" comments!

I doubt it. He's talked about it publicly before, so more of an update this time. Hopefully Revell brings the test shots parts to the NNL Milwaukee in a few months.

Semi-related...why do many cement mixers have these very basic inverted U-shaped grille guards(?) on the front bumper?: MPC/Ertl/AMT Mack has one, too:

Tried those, and noticed no significant difference from the standard blades. I always buy the 100 pack for around $14.00 shipped on eBay, so as Joe mentioned, changing them when they start to dull or the tip breaks off is the key. They're so cheap there's no excuse to use a dull blade.

Good start, Mike. I never tire of seeing these older cabovers. Do you have a 'macro' lens setting on your camera/cell phone? That might help with getting the close up detail shots a bit more in focus.