Casey

Thanks, Clay, that's the goal. I used square tubing for the remainder of the bed frame, so here's an updated shot: I added these 45* braces at each inner corner of the wheelwell areas, since I'm not sure what I'm going to use for wheelwells yet. I think I should've added thicker braces instead of the smaller square tubing, but it'll be difficult to see them once everything is in place, so they'll probably remain: 'nother test fit on the truck's frame: Hmmm, not much tire clearance back there : I don't care for the round cylindrical fuel tanks, nor the twin straps which are molded as one with each tank, so I decided to make some rectangular tanks and fab up some braces for them. I had a thought to use LEGO blocks to form the tank shells around, knowing the blocks had square edges, flat sides, and the plastic would be compatible with styrene, so boding everything together wouldn't be an issue. Two 2x4 and two 1x4 blocks, bonded together, were used to form the base cube, then wrapped with a sheet of .020 styrene, and the wrap bonded to the base cube. This particular cube was wrapped with black styrene, the "nubs" on top of the two LEGO blocks have been sawed off, and the cube still needs to be covered on one side, but this shows the end result: The .020" styrene was chosen because the scrap pieces I had on hand were large enough to wrap five sides of each cube, but the final dimensions turned out the be near perfect. Each cube fits the rearmost space behind each rear wheel almost perfectly, so these cubes will be used as fake storage bins: I got lucky again, as the space between the storage bin and frame rails measures .040", so enough room for a .020" thick angle iron brace on both sides. I will use some slightly thicker styrene to wrap the fuel tanks, which will fit inside a slightly wider space.

Also, the AMT White Freightliner: ...and the Ertl International Transtar II which was reissued as part of AMT's Buyer's Choice program. Not the cheapest nor easiest to find anymore, though:

I would love to see what the kit's contents look like, though I'm leaning toward the image on the box being more representative of the real thing than what's inside the box.

I was hoping this would stay on topic, but it didn't. If you want to debate what a "real" truck is or discuss big rigs versus pickups, we have the Truck Stop section just for that sort of thing. Let's stick to discussing the Meng kit in this topic, please.

I had to test fit it on the truck's frame, too: I did remember to test fit the framework with the engine and trans in place, and there is enough clearance...barely. I intentionally set the front cross rail back from the body support brace by the width of the rail, just to be on the safe side, but it looks like there are no interference issues: And another test fit with the car in place: Not much clearance over the rear tires, though.

Thanks, guys. The steering damper and linkage were cleaned up, the ejector pin holes filled, and both permanently joined to make final assembly a bit easier. I also cleaned up and prepped a few other small parts, found a parts box carburetor, distributor, foot-shaped throttle pedal, and a little box which should pass for a voltage regulator: I started doing some scribing around the u-joint yokes, so we'll see how much difference it makes once everything is finish painted. I may have to make the slip joint functional, too, as the driveshaft seems a bit short. Here are the partially scribed and kit-stock u-joints/yokes: I started the framework for the flatbed tonight, too, using rectangular tubing which was the same size as the ends of the framerails. Not sure if that size is correct or not, but it looks close, and it's too late to turn back now. I used my trusty aluminum X-ACTO miter box, a razor saw, and a double sided fine/extra fine sanding stick to cut and square up the ends of each piece, and while I only measured once, I only managed to cut one section too short. I build flat assemblies like this bed framework on a sheet of glass to ensure it stays flat, and I can use the edge of the glass to rest my miter box against, which makes for flat and square right angle joints. Here are a few shots of how the miter box, glass, and rectangular tubing work together: I started by gluing (Testors liquid cement in the glass jar works great) the two main longitudinal rails to the head rail, and ended up with this: After letting that dry for two hours, I cut the center cross pieces, which I spaced to align with the truck's two forward frame cross members and the rear leaf spring eyes at the rear. Once the three center cross members were glued in position, I cut more pieces for the outer cross pieces, again using the miter box and glass to keep each piece flat and square to the main rails as I glued them, working from front to rear. The end result is this: I have yet to decide on a final bed length, so the truck's and bed's rails have't been cut to their final lengths, either. I am planning to add another cross member at the rear edge of both, as well as some kind of rear bumper and some type of setup to mount the loading ramps.

The seat is the box stock width...which I didn't measure. I will update this post with the backrest and bottom widths once I do. Here are the seat specs:

Check out the tanks Early Years Resin offers, Hal: http://earlyyearsresin.webs.com/lsrparts.htm They might even be able to provide you with exact measurements, too.

Yes, if it's what's enclosed in yellow below:

No, they do not sell BMF at the store nearest to me. Flocking? Maybe in the craft department, but not specifically labeled as nor for use with scale models.

Thanks for posting the pics, Jon.

Who knew Fords could photobomb?

I think Rob was making the point that price and parts count do not always have a parallel relationship, Chuck. Some "expensive kits have a lower parts count than a "cheaper" kit with more parts, and when we throw quality into the equation, it's gets complicated. I do agree this kit will be a good test to see who is willing to pay whatever this kit costs, and who isn't. We all have our reasons for deciding what and what not to buy, but Meng is a newish player in the 1/24 civilian car/truck market, so from that perspective alone, this kit's fortunes are well worth following.

Aren't the wheels he same "wagon"" wheels found in the Model King reissue from a few years ago? Or are they shared with the Bronco kits?

I know at least one member has a G-series van and might he/she or anyone else who owns one might be willing to measure the ribs for you. I would use rectangular styrene strip, though, not square.

Looks like they are full/wide whites, Bill: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=76109&p=960371

Good for reference: http://www.dailyturismo.com/2012/10/5k-1974-chevy-g30-fire-chiefs-van-8k.html

(motions arm up and down indicating desire for driver to blast air horn) Looks good, Sean.

The kit's bucket seats looked undersized to my eyes (ironically, similar to Avanti bucket seats), and I felt a bench seat would be more appropriate anyway, so I housed the bench seat from an AMT '60 Chevy Fleetside and modified it a bit to fit the interior tub. I shortened both the seat base and backrest 3/16" or so, removed most of the hinges, added a styrene strip to for the seat base to butt up against, and filled in the upper 1/4" of the backrest's backside with another styrene strip: The seat will be permanently affixed and the backrest won't hinge, but the upper part of the backrest is visible through the rear window, so I had to at least fill in what could be seen. Even though the texture/fabric covering on the seat runs a bit crooked (maybe that was intentional on AMT's part?), it's a nice mid-level '60s truck bench seat-- not too plain, yet not too fancy. Pay no attention to what looks like an errant scribe line on the seatback... I had the remnants of a Revell Mickey Thompson Attempt 1 trailer I received in trade last year, so I decided to mock up the LSR Turbine car (the intended bed load) on the trailer's deck rails/planks/whatchamacallits: Sometimes you get lucky. I was planing on using an angled ramp bed, but after some test fitting, I think I'm going to use a flat deck with a small/short beavertail at the end of the bed/deck instead. A full-out angled ramp bed with multiple storage bins just doesn't seem to fit with the limited budget Studebaker was always working with, so simpler and cheaper wins this time. I was also planning to park the car nose up on the ramp bed, like so...: ...but decided to park it backwards instead. It just seems to flow better visually this way:

I would use rectangular strip, with the two long edges/corners rounded over slightly after they've been glued in place. I'll see if I have any close-up pics of the roof ribs, but going by what I remember from looking over a '71, the ribs are more like a flattened half-hex shape, if that makes any sense. Upside down, but like this---> \___/

Revell '67 427 Vette for the steering wheel, and Revell '69 Yenko 427 Camaro for the wheels.

I usually measure a real ignition wire, divide by the scale I'm working in, and find what's closest. I agree with what Eric said, in that most models have ignition wires which are way too thick.

The styrene tires should be relatively easy to find. Not many people want those, and they can usually be found in great shape for that very reason. maybe put a want ad up in the Wanted section and see what happens?

The raised roof ribs were present on the real G-vans since '71, but looking back it doesn't appear the original issue of the AMT kit had the ribs. I noticed the front door window "glass" panes are slightly different between the two issues, with the current issue having a clearly defined vent window pane, while the original issue's window is all one, flat piece. I never noticed the vent window support/divider was molded as part of the window "glass" until just now:

I hate these sink liiiiiiiiines.... What you said is the reason I wouldn't be too bothered by the sink lines. If I'm building the stake bed with all that wood, I'd use basswood instead of trying to paint the plastic anyway.