Casey

From you statement, it sounds like they'll continue to supply missing pieces once, but not when made via multiple, separate requests. It'd be nice of there were never any missing nor damaged parts in a factory sealed kit, but I think Revell's policy is reasonable. They're willing to send the parts, but they want you to do a thorough inspection and request what you need in a single request.

Thanks, all. This kit has kept me very motivated, despite having to remove the mold seams on both sides of the multi-leaf rear springs. Here's the second rear leaf spring, still in the process of having the seams flattened, but there's no saving that sink mark between he u-bolts. Fortunately, it will be almost completely hidden when the tires, wheels, and flatbed are in place: Here's the finished spring up close. We'll see how it looks after a coat of primer and another round of sanding...: I assembled a few more parts and added a piece of .125" tubing inside the rearend housing to better keep the metal axle rod centered. The brake cylinders/chambers were a pain to clean up, due to their small size, and I'm not sure I'll stick with the stock air cleaner assembly, but they're at least ready for primer: Looking at the 1:1 reference pics, it seems there are at least two different ways the cab meets the body support, but I think the kit's version is the most supportive, so no need to modify it: I also glued the second cab pivot to the underside of the cab's floor since there's plenty of space to allow the pivots to slip into place easily over the pins. That extra space may have to be taken up by some spacers, but for now, I can at least "install" the cab and get going on the ramp bed: I filled in the wiper motor access panels, too, so the cab is almost ready for some primer:

I was wondering how clearly you could see the headlight bulbs (well the decals of them at least) with the clear covers in place, or if there was enough distortion that it wouldn't make too much difference either way.

There's a good review already posted at Cbyermodeler with pics of the kit's contents: http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/kits/rm/kit_rm_2825.shtml ...but the headlight covers themselves are clear molded pieces, as seen on the recently reissued "Rebel Racer" version:

Until you snap over the first sapling with it. What to add that hasn't been said already, though...I've got nuthin' but love for this build.

http://www.magazinepublisher.com/models/tires/tires.html#available

"Hi, Revell? I need four Eagle ST tires for this kit, and a decal sheet with the white stripes!" Both kits I purchased were complete with no damage, and the tires in the second kit were slightly better than those in the first kit, too.

*long gone images*

Trying to define "the best" is an effort in futility IMHO, especially with so many different factors involved. What standards are you using to compare what one driver does on gravel in a Citroen Xsara to what someone else does on the track at Talladega, or yet another driver does on the road coarse at Road America in a Formula V car? Different drivers, varying conditions, vehicles of all different sorts, etc.-- way too many variable to compare them objectively, and we're just talking about the drivers. I think the IROC series was intended to level the playing field by supplying an identical car to each driver, then letting each driver's skills be the difference maker, but even then, there's no way every single car performed exactly the same, so is the winner really the "best" driver that day? There are good and poor drivers in every form of vehicular racing, but I don't see any way to fairly and objectively compare each driver who has ever raced.

Might be better to PM or e-mail him, Charlie: Last Active OFFLINE Nov 27 2013 11:30 AM

Diff'rent strokes for diff'rent folks.

Here's a nice, clear look at how the grille fits into the opening, as well as the thin body colored windshield divider which is almost completely covered by the windshield gaskets: Now I'm wondering how the cab would look with the divider removed and the windshield gasket fudged to make it look like a one-piece windshield...hmmmm

Even if you're s'posed to cut out the box top image and frame it?

You are correct, the green definitely adds to the old school look.

Maybe you could use the IMC/Lindberg Dodge L-700 Tanker's tank instead, similar to what Cliff did ('cept you might have to narrow it a bit?): http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59232 Looking good so far.

Excellent building, image posting, and English/grammar. Welcome to the forum, too.

This is weird, but just seeing this AMT '32 Ford roadster on eBay...the wheels, maybe...?? They even have a hub pin for where a tri-bar spinner nut would be located:

Yeah, Rich Manson built a 1/35 (I think) '41 or '42 Ford not too long ago, so they exist.

Cameron, have you checked out this topic in the Reviews section?: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=55061&hl=%26quot%3Bgran+sport%26quot%3B#entry641764

No worries. I'll send Carlos a PM and we'll try to get he and Billy in touch with one another regarding shipping.

This trans kit?:

All I have is the pic from an eBay listing long ago.

Billy, were you and Carlos able to get in touch?

It's the head from the Aurora Prehistoric Scenes Cave Bear:

Very nice work on the hood emblem, Adam, and the yellow paint turned out great. And who doesn't like putting on old Monogram kit decals?