Casey

Not sure what causes sink marks, or in this case, sink lines, but they are rather prominent on the RC2 issue. I wasn't planning to use the stake bed anyway, but it's an issue to be aware of if you are. You can see the shadow lines where the cross members run underneath the bed floor here:

Thanks for the pics and review comments, Tim. I am REALLY liking the roll feature, too. Hopefully Photobucket copies that feature from fotki. The smooth roof on all of these issues (except the GMC-branded A-TEAM version IIRC) is the biggest disappointment for me. It would've been great to see the roof ribs engraved in the tooling, but I can understand why Round 2 wouldn't want to do that.

I'm not sure why people are so critical of meteorologists to be honest. Forecasts are pretty accurate, and while no forecast will ever be perfect to the exact degree at each hour of the day, I can honestly say I have never been surprised by the weather after reading/seeing/watching a forecast the day before. Granted, I wouldn't put blind faith in May weather based on a prediction in March, but I would hold a meteorologist responsible for being 100% correct, much less that far in advance.

I seem to do just fine with the forum's advanced search function, but to each their own. As far as a forum FAQ is concerned, it has been discussed, and I would agree having one would be very helpful, but nobody has volunteered to create/write it yet, so no FAQ exists. Take a look through the topics in the Q&A and Tips, Tricks & Tutorials sections, Brian, and especially at the pinned topics. Most of those should address a few of your questions and hopefully will be of some help to you.

Stunning work. I couldn't tell if the outside shots were of the model or the real thing.

I just looked at the spring (March-May) forecast for the upper Midwest, and it's predicted to be much cooler than normal. We can only hope June-August temperatures follow that pattern.

I'll be there, maybe even with something to display in the In Progress/Primer section.

I would say yes, at least the body. Revell's recent SnapTite kit bodies are well done, and the 1/24 kit is the only 1/24 kit of the bunch, so it's all or nothing if you use that as the base model. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=69573&hl=%2270+chevelle%22

The 1/24 Monogram/Revell '70 Chevelle/Malibu is probably the best kit, sad to say. For the ultimate '70 Chevelle SS, combine the body parts (and maybe the interior) from the 1/25 Revell SnapTite '70 Chevelle SS 454 with the chassis from the 1/25 Revell '72 Olds Cutlass kit, and the BBC engine from the AMT '70 Monte Carlo SS454. The Monte has a very nice set of stock exhaust manifolds, but you will nee to source the correct air cleaner elsewhere.

http://coffincorner.proboards.com/thread/18882/open-apology

I've never been bold enough to try pulling off an L-700 build, but you sure did.

Agreed. The way they flow really ties the cab, sleeper, and bed together, and the red and silver go great with the main dark blue color.

I might've modified the decals so they didn't pass over the door window, but otherwise it looks good. All those rivets can't be fun to deal with, though.

Here's where I picked up today, and you can see how I split the rearend halves at the seam while boring through with a drill bit. There was literally only a few thousandths of an inch or material left on the housing after boring, and probably a little extra due to stretching, but the styrene tube is permanently glued to the housing, the gaps filled and sanded, and the entire rearend ready for some primer: Hopefully you can see above how I thinned and glued the brake backing plates and drums together, bored out the center hole to accept another piece of tubing, filled the inside of the drum with resin, waited for it all to cure, then re-bored the center hole to accept the smaller (new) axle tubes. The axle tubes run from one wheel to the other, and provide a very snug and secure attachment for the drums and wheels, as well as allowing me to take them on and off as necessary for future test fitting. Here's a close up of the rear end in place and it's relationship to the brake drum/backing plate: Here is the rear end resting in place on the springs or riser blocks(?, not sure exactly what they're called on big trucks), with the everything from wheel to wheel in position: I have to admit I probably should've held out for the longer wheelbase framerails found in the City Delivery version of this kit, but after some test fitting with the intended bed load, the medium wheelbase should be fine. I think a little bit more length with look better, so I will keep that in mind the next time I build another C-series Ford.

I was wondering if your ears rang after I typed that. And yes.

I've got to agree with Austin here. There's been a pattern to Greg's borderline trolling posts in the past few weeks-- it's not just a one-time thing. If you want to discuss something or legitimately ask a question in an attempt to honestly understand a fellow member's line of thinking, fine, let's discuss it, but posting a "question" which you don't really want answered and only post tell everyone how much you dislike something or to incite drama isn't something this forum was created for. Then he should be willing to accept and understand the answers people take the time to provide. He doesn't even have to agree with any of the answers, but continuing to ignore people's honest responses, then repeating the question multiple times comes off as trolling to some, myself included. A discussion requires at least two people to participate, exchange ideas and thoughts, and listen to what the other participants have to sat. When one person is only talking and not doing any listening, there can be no understanding, and it ceases to be a discussion.

Wow is right. Extremely nice work so far.

I did a lot of research and collected many reference pics prior to starting this project, so while you are correct, I am comfortable with it. I wanted to re-use the kit's rear bed caps, tailgate, and tail lights, so that factored into my decision. I also considered how the wear strips are shaped and positioned on the real bed, and knew I didn't want to try replicating the strips: I'd love to see someone go all out and make a 100% factory correct bed, but it just wasn't something I wanted to do this time. The straight six in these kits is fabulous, no question.

Yeah, that's just silly, isn't it? Who would purposely cant something that's normally perfectly level... The AARP membership cards must've been late arriving in the mail in the greater metro Phoenix are this month. People are gettin' grumpy.

Thanks JT, and Mike, I should've traded for one of these long ago. I did some measuring for the flatbed and realized the rear track width was a bit too wide, and if left as is, the rear tires would stick out past the bed, so that needed to be fixed. Unfortunately, I had previously assembled the rear wheel parts, so cutting them apart wasn't a reasonable option, even though thinning the outer rim section on both outer wheels would've worked to correct the track width. Since the brake drums don't need to rotate independently from the backing plates on the model, I removed some thickness from both pieces on both sides, glued the drums and plates together, then removed some additional thickness from the drum's outer face, which got everything within the necessary width. The inner lip of the wheels is a bit closer to the leaf springs now, but the tires don't rub on the springs, so it should work just fine: I didn't care for the way the rearend slips through holes in the spring perches, and I wanted to be able to assemble the brake backing plates to the rearend before installing everything as one assembly, so out came the razor saw. The way the backing plates, brake drums, and rear wheels all went together with the rearend was a bit of a mess, too, so I decided to use one single piece of styrene tubing to connect everything, which led to new axle tubes for the rearend.

My neighbor just game me two boxes a few minutes ago, including one box of Thin Mints. They will not live 'til sunup on Sunday.

Having multiple topics discussing the same thing doesn't help anyone either, so this is one case where we'll have to agree to disagree.

Why not volunteer to be a moderator and make things better, Greg? I'm sure there are plenty of things which could be done and handled better and differently here, but if you never make the effort never step up an try to implement your ideas, we'll never know what those ideas are, not how well they work. Of course, if you did volunteer, you could no longe complain about everything you don't like, you'd realize there is no right answer for everything, you'd have to use the existing forum sections to decide where posts best fit, you'd be required to use your best judgment when deciding what's best for the forum as a whole, and you'd get criticized by those who know how to do it better yet won't actually take the initiative to volunteer their time...still interested? I'm serious when I say I'd love it if someone volunteered and wanted to help out here as a moderator, but I've only seen/read one person speak up and hint at wanting to do so in the years I've been a member. I leave "moved" trails when I move a post, and Gregg recently set thing up so that the trail link is automatically removed after five days. There is no way to leave a trail for a merged post, but again, here's a post which tell you how to find any of your topic or replies. Please "Follow" it this time: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=61235&hl=

This one's currently listed on eBay, and is kit #Y911:

Good info, Mark. http://www.indymetaletching.com/