Casey

resinslinger hasn't logged on in almost two years, so I doubt you will see any updates from her/him: resinslinger Member Since 22 Sep 2007 OFFLINE Last Active May 21 2011 03:39 AM

Thanks, Joe. I got around to doing some of the un-sexy, will-be-hidden-from-view-for-the-most-part work the last two days, which included filling the gaps between the rear wheelhouses and quarter panels, and closing the gaps in the area between the fenders and cowl assembly, so that you can't see into the interior while looking into the front wheel wells. Most of the white areas you can see in the pics below are styrene filler. Nothing fancy here, just superglue, accelerator, then sanding. LR wheel well: This is the area between the cowl assembly/firewall and behind the fender, on which I used a few pieces of styrene sheet and square stock to "fill in" the gap. I took a bit of creative license here, so while it may not be 100% true to a real '69 Dart in this area, I think it's close enough should anyone actually look up there. The RH rocker panel is at the lower left in the pic, so imagine sticking your head into the RF wheel well, and looking up: I couldn't get a good shot to show the new shapes in that area, but here's a full width pic where you can see the now-rounded bottom corner of the cowl/firewall and the extensions I added to the kick-up on both sides: I also bent up the p/e battery tray, superglued the corners and the support brackets I made for the earlier plastic tray, then glued it in place: Overall engine compartment progress shot: I bought a set of Model Car Garage's p/e leaf spring shackles, thinking they looked a lot like the extended shackles sold at the Penney's Auto Center back in the day, and since this car will have a used, "worked on" feel to it, they seemed to be a perfect fit: I will trim them for length, but adding these meant ditching the kit-stock rear leaf spring eye mounting points (which are basically solid cubes of plastic, so no great loss there). I ordered some longer bolts from RB Motion to mount them, once I get the blocks removed and the new brackets made. In the meantime, I started shaping the kit's rear leaf spring eyes to look more like, well, eyes: I may still make some leaf springs with individual leaves, following the excellent tutorial here: http://automodeler.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=1251 , but for now I think I can make the kit's leaf springs look passable. I also switched back to the Revell '68 Dart's 8-3/4" rearend, as the '71 Charger's rearend still looked a bit undersized to me. Once I get the leaf springs mounted I will make new axle tube-to-leaf spring brackets, then glue/bolt it all together.

Agreed. One of the 1/16 Pryo T-based rods would be a decent starting point. The suspension parts are pretty well done, and the engine is decent, though there are bette detailed options. For 1/12 scale, you're going to be very limited with kit-based choices. In fact, I can't think of any kit-based 1/12 scale T-bucket kits, as Tom said above.

You want to talk about NHL hockey on a model cars forum, fine, talk about hockey, but posting bloody fight videos isn't appropriate. We're here to discuss model related things, and while there are off-topic topics posted, this topic has quickly gone beyond discussing hockey. I'm sure there are plenty of hockey-specific forums for you to enjoy if you're into that.

I can't say I've sever seen this kit before, and I think I've only ever seen one other kit labeled as both Craft Master and MPC, but the crazy car thing was rampant during the late '60s and this one would not be held back:

Yes, the product numbers listed in the rules do not match what's on Revell's website, but when you click each model, it take you directly to the correct model on Revell's website.

Yes, it's not a great kit, but the body is nice. Revell's '66 Chevelle wagon is much nicer and goes together far easier.

Did you repaint the interior with brown-ish paint?

Hobby Lobby sells them, too. As far as size, measure the wire diameter and use a slightly larger drill bit. I would suggest you pick up a dial caliper, too, as they are very handy for measuring:

More info and links here, too: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=55061&hl=grand

Try here with car #002: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=66636&hl=%2Bgrand+%2Bsport http://www.racingicons.com/gs/004/004-07.htm

http://www.b-n-lresins.com/photo3_23.html

Agreed. Revell isn't trying to please everyone here. If they were they'd include every current kit they make on the eligible list. I'm sure someone could (please don't) dredge up last year post on the contest (no really, please don't) and we'd see comments like "Why so many musclecars?!" and " where are all the new Vettes, Challengers and Mustangs on the list?"

Ah, now I see what you meant. I think that would be a good idea, and would expound upon the article or feature in Model Cars Magazine, directing the reader to a place here on the forum where they could view more images and get much more (or more in depth) information. It would be heavily dependent upon the builder providing that info and those images, as not everyone is good at, interested in, or simply has the desire to share that here on the forum. I think member Cruz is a good example of someone whose work has been both posted here and featured in MCM. I would never be comfortable labeling someone as a master builder, though, as that implies they have reached a certain standard or level which is above or higher than almost all other members. While I think we can all agree some builders here are extremely talented and skilled and others are still developing their skills, I can't see any benefit to the forum by adding any sort of title linked to the builder's skill level.

No, charcoal grey Sharpie glossed up by the liquid cement.

Yes. The appeal of the Street Machine kit seems to be the Air Grabber-type hood, and I'm 99% sure Missing Link offers all three pieces (hood, scoop, and air cleaner assembly) in resin, so there's little to no need to buy the Street Machine version. I noticed that, too, John. Maybe the "ribs" on the backsides of the door panels and sets were an experiment of sorts, maybe to prevent warping. maybe to make the parts easier to mold, to save material, maybe to...who knows. I did notice the engine block/trans halves have an aligning rib almost all the way around the perimeter, making alignment of the two halves very easy. I almost got the feeling this kit was look into what was to come for AMT, with great engineering and design throughout, but once RC2 entered the equation, it seems the brakes were applied and that was the end of that.

Here are some things to think about regarding each suggestion of yours., Lane: 1) No matter how many sub categories, someone will be "left out" say there aren't enough sub categories, or "why isn't there a sub-category for apocalyptic vehicles??", and so on. Which sub-categories do you add, and based on what? There is no correct answer, and not everyone would agree on what the sub-categories should be. 2) Who's going to determine who is a "Master Builder" and who isn't? And who really wants to be labeled a "Master Builder", as if their models are so far above and beyond everyone else's here, that they get a special sub category? We don't need nor want that ego-feeding drama here, and nobody should get special recognition IMHO. Everyone's model can stand on their own merits for everyone else to see. 3) This kind of goes back to point number one, but the main course for this forum seems to be Cars and Trucks, and though we have members who build plenty of "other" models-- figures, Sci-Fi, military, fantasy, etc-- the bulk of what people are interested in are plastic cars and trucks, and again, deciding which new categories to add or not add isn't a simple thing. No forum can (nor should IMO) be everything to everyone, so compromises need to be made.

Looking at the AMT '71 Duster 4-speed again and realizing it was undersized, I pulled out a spare Revell '69 Charger R/T A-833 4-speed I had previously glued together and started cutting and sanding, removing both the trans mount and forward shifter boss. Here's the comparison shot with the Duster trans on top, though the viewing angle isn't ideal for seeing the height difference between the two: I picked up a Muncie-4-speed p/e set from Model Car Garage, which includes all the linkage, levers, shifter box, and well, everything but the shifter stick and knob, so I wanted the trans to look good before adding the detail parts. I should've just followed my instincts and used the Revell trans in the first place. The MCG p/e shifter is a really great set, and looks very close to a typical '60s Hurst 4-speed shifter box. I am constantly test fitting the chassis/floorpan to the body shell, and one area which I wasn't happy with was the engine compartment, specifically where the inner fenders meet the framerails. On the real car (a unibody vehicle), this are is all welded together, but that would be incredibly difficult to pull off on this model, considering the interior would need to be finished and sealed up tight. Soooooooo, I decided to remove some material from the top of the framerails and the bottom of the inner fenders, so that I could sandwich some sheet styrene between the two, like so: Using the styrene allowed me to bridge the gap between the framerails and inner fenders, and provides more surface area for future bonding. Here's a shot looking at the RH side: The tricky part is deciding which thickness of styrene to use. Too thin and it will flex and bend, and too thick and it will look like steel plate was used to do some backyard rust repair, so I found a good compromise, and will taper/bevel the upper/inner edge of the styrene sheet, visually thinning it. The framerails and inner fenders do not overlap perfectly, nor are both always in the same vertical plane, and the real pieces are stamped with compound curves, so I am cheating a bit in this area, but once the Slant Six is in place, you won't be able to see much, if any, of the RH side anyway.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=67994

dryvr12 Member Since 26 Jun 2008 OFFLINE Last Active Aug 24 2011 03:58 PM Mr. Pink dredged up an old topic which had been very well answered, and I'm not sure why, since this question has been answered.

That is a good idea, if done on a small scale with an explosion proof fan/exhaust system. I think a downdraft exhaust system compliments gravity the best, but a lot will depend upon which filter(s) you use.

I don't believe it was. The above pictured 2002 RC2 release seems to be the most recent.

Yes, the current issue is the same as the stock version in this review:

Just get a 24" x 36" roll of clear vinyl and wrap the entire body. It's a NASCAR car, after all. Done.

This should cause a few already in progress projects to take even longer.