Casey

At least five or six times, and I think this was the most recent re-issue:

Just a show/swap meet, and no. Just going to buy what I may have missed the first week of November.

Model Martin: http://www.aardvarkmodels.com/order.html or send Andy a Private Message (PM) here on the forum: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showuser=815

That's not Revell's issue, it's yours. Anyone who enters the contest must meet the requirements, and since the entries can't be judged in person, they must rely on photographs to judge each entry. It's in every entrant's best interest to enter the largest, clearest, most well-photographed images allowed/possible, so the judges can better see the work you've done.

What!?!? No up-top included with this kit??!!! It also appears the valve cover breathers have been left off the model, and the steering shaft, too?

I thought you of all people would've owned these kits, Erik!

Toss 'em. Fresh/newer styrene strips, especially that thin should be able to be wrapped around a 1/8" rod without breaking...and the price has doubled since you last purchased them.

They don't have a website, but you may be able to find pics in someone's fotki album. Try here?: http://public.fotki.com/crstan/replican-and-miniat/replicas-and-miniat/ Norm's (proprietor's) email is: replmincomd@aol.com or call: 410-768-3648

It's a nice kit, created during one of AMT's "good" periods. The Pontiac engine is nicely done, as is the rearend and the other drivetrain parts, and from what I've seen, the interior (dash in particular) looks good, too. I only had parts to look over, and not the whole kit, but I would definitely recommend it. One thing Round2 has going for it is .pdf files of its kit's instruction sheets right on its website, so you can "look over" each kit at your leisure: http://www.round2models.com/files/instructions/amt623.pdf

The first place I would check would be Replicas & Miniatures Company of Maryland.

They do make micro-sized nut drivers for the micro nuts, too. I recall seeing them at Scale Hardware when I bought my stuff. Buying the real micro nuts/bolts or photoetched nuts is more expensive, but just like round of square styrene, hex styrene rod isn't always perfectly extruded, and cutting it in perfectly even lengths (say you need 20 open-ended lug nuts) is something which will try almost anyone's patience, especially in 1/25-1/24 scale.

After a search using "strombergs" as the key word...: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=66088&hl=stromberg#entry812956

If I'm reading the statement Mark posted above correctly, none were done in clear plastic, only blue.

In your imagination, or however that translates into a scale model. http://davidhudnut.blogspot.com/2012/05/violent-violet-volkswagen.html In the book, the model kit is described in the following paragraph: "Jack took the box from his son. It was a model car, one of the Big Daddy Roth caricatures that Danny had expressed an admiration for in the past. This one was the Violent Violet Volkswagen and the picture on the box showed a huge purple VW with long '59 Cadillac Coupe de Ville taillights burning up a dirt track. The VW had a sunroof, and poking up through it, clawed hands on the wheel down below, was a gigantic warty monster with popping bloodshot eyes, a maniacal grin, and a gigantic English racing cap turned around backward." -Stephen King, The Shining, p. 130

I'll be attending.

Yes, it can be applied with an airbrush, but IIRC, it should be thinned. Lots of info in this topic: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8964

Agreed. I think we can all tell by the testimonials posted above that Larry G Scale is a good person to do business with, and while I understand Larry's frustration, the personal and financial details should be kept private.

I decided the Lindberg '64 Belvedere's four-speed trans wasn't gonna cut it disguised as a three-speed, so I got out my AMT '71 Duster 340 parts kit and took another look at the trans, decided it would be acceptable, and go to work. I already prepped the bellhousing from the Lindy '64, so I test fit the inspection cover then glued it in place, glued the bellhousing to the block, then after more test fitting and fine tuning the trans was joined to the bellhousing. I don't have a final shot of it all together, but here are the parts beforehand: I was hoping/planning to go with a column shifter 3-speed manual, but the 4-speed linkage is cleaner and less complicated, and will only require a new floor hump. The 8-3/4" rear is getting a makeover of sorts. I wasn't happy with the kit's rearend, so I sliced off the out-of-round axle tubes, substituted some 1/8" styrene rod, and will need to get busy sanding and shaping: I finally test fit the narrower, more Slant Six-appropriate radiator (I think it came from the Lindy LRW A-100 pickup kit) to the core support, and it was a great fit in all directions. I added some styrene strip to the bottom, then roughed it into shape. I will drill for the pass. side upper and lower radiator hose inlet locations once I get the engine position dialed in: A test fit of the engine and trans revlealed the oil pan's position isn't quite ideal, and the trans mount doesn't line up with the crossmember, so I need to fix that before adding the engine mounts to the K-frame: Bellhousing to firewall clearance looks good:

I think that's been the consensus among those who have built or at least looked over Revell's Snap-Tite '57 Bel Air Hardtop, and I hope they do base the glue kit upon the snap body shell, at least as much as is realistically possible.

Try searching using the search term "grex, as there are many results here on the forum, especially in the Question & Answer section.

I found a fourth, matching tire, so tonight I sanded and scrubbed (Barkeeper's Friend) all four, the front two showing the car's front end needs re-aligning: Yes, I bored out one rear wheel hub hole too much, so it'll become a wheel back hoop. I don't know which kit these Firestone 500 tires came from, but I recall they were included with the Lesney-era AMT '68 Camaro Z/28 kit, and they are perfect for a narrow, late '60s "common" car tire. Even better are the front 14" steel wheels from the Revell '64 Ford T-bolt, which have a nice taper, allowing the wheels to drop down inside the tire bead. I used these wheels back-to-back, narrowing the back wheel piece by sanding away the wheel center, leaving only a ring. With the final hourglass shape of both wheels joined, the tire is held in tension and can't move. Here's a close-up shot of the two wheel pieces joined: One little hiccup is the slightly mismatched mold have the tires were molded with, so one side of the tread area is slightly lower. This isn't a problem if you are planning to sand the tread area anyway, but on one of these tires I really needed to sand the tread to get both sides even, and you can see in the image below there's a little more to do. Maybe I'll just make that the contact patch: I also decided to glue the K-member to the framerails, as keeping it aligned with mini bolts wasn't very effective, and I needed to get the brake drum and wheel/tire positions set. The torsion bars were cut to fit, and new holes were drilled in the trans crossmember so the t-bars could slip inside, then forward a little bit into the lower control arm sockets, so they are secured at both ends. I won't permanently install them until final assembly, and I need to add some anchors/detail on the backside of the trans crossmember, but it's progress: I also managed to re-break one of the leaf springs, which is just as well since I sanded the rear axle tubes a bit too much and they ended up looking a bit too skinny. Not sure if I'll use another 8-3/4" rear from the '68 Dart kit or try to make an 8-1/4" rear from, well, something that's a close starting point. An 8-3/4" rear just doesn't "feel" right in a /6 car to me.

Wheels and tires are a bit over half done, but the rear tires need to be sanded a bit smoother, the rear wheels need some type of center/hub, the front tires need primer and paint, and I need to (hopefully) get some custom size Moon discs from Parts by Parks for both sides of all four wheels:

You'll have to keep an eye on eBay, and wait until one appears. I will PM you the completed listing I mentioned above so you know what to look for. Here are the AMT kit, and the Accu Pro cab and box: This is pretty much what you'd need for your project, Stephen:

No, it's just as bad as the 1/24 Monogram '55 chassis, with molded in mufflers and exhaust. The '56 is much closer to stock, but as mentioned above, there are far better options for either a '55 or '56 Chevy build, and neither of the Monogram kits are one of those better options.

It does, but the X-frame is molded as a separate piece on the existing Revell Tri-Fives, so I would expect this kit to follow suit.