Casey

Love it!

Beautiful truck.

Bingo. It's half a step above a Revell SnapTite kit, but half a step below a Monogram Basic Builder kit. Are the brown/gold stripes again the only colors offered?

Hans, I hope you don't mind me sharing this pic you took, but this is too good not to share. "Hey what's that over there?" "Oh, just the wood master pattern pieces for the '70 Plymouth Superbird body"

Me, too. I've had maybe two bad buyers in over a decade buying and selling there, and over 1600+ transactions. Paying 12% for worldwide exposure is a teeny-tiny price to pay, and really, nothing else can compare.

Anywhere from $150-$500, using ebay completed items as a guide. I would expect you could get $250 easily, but for a U.S. buyer, shipping is going to factor in heavily. I think you could get $325 or so, but I have to say, if I had the chance, I couldn't resist building it. The original issue has some neat features none of the reissued versions had, and this is one kit that always looks fabulous built box stock.

I know The Modelhaus makes top quality stuff, but my question is this- what makes these tires better than what Revell includes as far as style or era-correctness? Do these tires come with the whitewalls already (painted?) on the tires? I see they are specifically designed to fit the (what I refer to as die-cast style) tires in the '50 Olds kit, so maybe that is the first time they've offered such a tire? Are the Revell tires just too large in diameter?

My experience with Kenny @ Bandit Resins was very positive. You can read my comments regarding their service and products here: http://www.modelcars...it You can also PM Kenny directly, as he's a member here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showuser=659

The review for the Revell 1/25 '70 Challenger T/A/R/T is here: http://www.modelcars...t=0#entry193815

The search function showing the post you both started and replied to is limited to one year from the present date: Monty's Content There have been 344 items by Monty (Search limited from 23-October 11) If you want to use the forum to store your images, try uploading them using the "Gallery" feature. Each member has the ability to create their own gallery, and it's easily accessible via the "My Content" tab.

There are two Revell branded '70 Dodge Challenger kits: a 1/24 scale '70 T/A, originally a Monogram kit; and a 1/25 scale '70 T/A and/or R/T, which was based on the 1/25 Revell die-cast model.

That was the issue which prevented me from getting any, too. The colors were all too metallic looking, and the texture too coarse. The only color which looked realistic was the black, which wasn't called black specifically, but "carbon gray" or similar?

If someone wants to create a single topic in the Links/Websites section specifically for listing the contact info/website link/facebook page for aftermarket companies, I agree that would be very helpful.

No, but Jack Pennington built an incredibly nice replica of the car shown above.

Bump for all the 1/20 scale fans.

Out of curiosity, what was the factory installed tire size and brand(s)/model(s) when these cars were new?

I suspect a decal printed with the gauge faces will be included, which you will apply to this clear piece...: ...then attach the clear piece to the backside of the instrument cluster.

What Ray said. I love the letter and package details.

I wasn't going to chum the waters with talk of a future modified reissue (with at least one option being a race car with a hardtop) since this kit did just hit store shelves this week, but that's never stopped us before.

A current one? No. I find doing a Completed Items search on ebay is about as close as you'll come to a "real world" selling price with condition taken into account.

You can always kitbash with parts from the 1/12 Monogram '69 Camaro Z/28 and '57 Chevy Bel Air kits, too.

Got these from a great friend : I see a 1/25 scale Maxivan in my future.

Mix a small amount of parts A & B, and leave it in the container. Time how long it takes to cure, and you will know what your working time is. Also, what type of container are you mixing the A & B parts inside? You want to fill at the lowest point if you're using a fill port and a vent(s). Even then, you have to consider how the air is escaping from the mold as it's being displaced by the liquid resin. You may need multiple vents at the high points so that you don't get trapped air bubbles.

I agree. Casting an engine as one (mostly) complete part does not work well, leaving you with some voids in areas...not good. You want to aim for zero voids, period. The valve covers have a flat bottom, so they can be made in a much simpler, easier one-part mold, and you'll get more consistent results. You will need to use two-part molds for some parts. There's just no way around that sometimes, so you have to practice. Break the engine down to the engine block, cylinder heads, valve covers, exhaust manifold, and so on. If rapid production isn't a concern, use a slower curing mold rubber and resin. It will give you more time to mix the A and B parts, and allow a bit more time for any air bubbles to escape. Think of how each part sits in the mold, and how and where an air bubble could become caught as it rises, and try to eliminate every possible place that could happen. Looking at all the air bubble in the cured translucent resin, I'm going to assume those were not present when you mixed and before you poured the mixed resin into the mold? Again, no bubbles is what you want to aim for. It's possible the resin and mold rubber are not reacting well with each other, but how does the cured resin look in the mixing cup? The resin which didn't make it into the mold will not have any contact with the mold rubber, so you can compare it to the resin inside the mold as a first troubleshooting step.

Finally got the frame rail joint corners cleaned up: Now I need to add the strut rod mount brackets, improve the splits at the front ends of the frame rails, fit the steering gear box, and so on...another long term project.