Casey

I would start with Bandit Resins' Plymouth Scamp: http://s916.photobuc...Plymouth Scamp/

I picked up a partial '39/'40 Tudor kit for the manifold yesterday, and if this is as close as we can come to a multi-carb intake manifold sourced from a kit, we have some work to do. It's not too bad, but it is soft on the details, especially around the mating flanges, and there are those three ejector pin marks to address, the incompletely molded water neck, and the misnumbered intake runners (#1 as #6!?), but it does appear to be a replica of the cast iron GM manifold: The AMT '39/'40 Tudor Olds 3x2 intake manifold: An Edelbrock aluminum 3x2 manifold for the J-2:

Older v-groove belts which are triangular in cross-section are difficult to replicate in scale, but newer serpentine style belts which are closer to "flat" are easier. Here's a good tutorial: http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Drivebelt/dbelts.htm For v-groove belts, I've found cassette tape players, especially the dual cassette units, have small rubber belts which drive the tape mechanisms and the pulleys. The few I have seen are too big for bi-scale, but I think the belts could be made to work with a pulley into which a v-notch has been filed.

Look at what his father, Sam Foose, Sr. has done, too.

OMG, I thought for a few seconds this was the station on the corner of 17th St. and Indiana Ave in Sheboygan, WI where I used to fill up my '77 Celica GT. Tom, this is beautiful work you're doing, and there's really not much more I can add which hasn't been said already. The lights are stunning!

It looks like someone just edited the image and added the AMX C-pillars and nameplates to the Challenger. Not a very good looking vehicle IMHO. If you like "modern" AMC ideas/sketches, check out these Steve Stanford sketches which appeared in Hot Rod Magazine a few years ago: http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/hrdp_0804_amc_concept_cars/viewall.html

They are actual 1/16 scale parts, printed by the 3D printing method. If you look at the pics in the link, you can see the "layers" which are "printed" as the part is created/printed.

Piece of cake, then.

I can see both sides of the argument, and I completely agree that the area over the driver's side headlights is going to be very difficult to even out, especially in the concave area, as indicated by the black arrow below. You're going to need a round needle file, some patience, and good lighting to make both sides of the parting line even, without introducing any irregularities into either of the headlight bulges: For me, that area would be a bigger problem than the center of the nose, as I've never been able to detail such separate letters nicely with BMF, so sanding them off and replacing with photoetched letters is something I would do regardless of how good or bad the mold seam is.

Is that a bit of foreshadowing, Jeff?

K&S Engineering sells a package of 3 aluminum rods, which is great for exhaust tubing. It bends easily, buy isn't super soft (not as soft as solder), and each piece is 12" long or so. I've seen it at Hobby Lobby, too.

Thanks, Luc. Looks like using some p/e nameplate letters is the best solution.

Looking at the '62 Vette nose, it's clear a better job could've been done when it came to aligning the nose and top/hood mold sections/pieces, but with the deep coves on either side of the grille opening, the nose mold piece needs to hit the face of the car square on, so the coves are square and so the mold and body can separate easily. I'm sure there is a lot of engineering related math and experience in tool design necessary to figure out exactly where the mold's body sections should be located and why, how the sliding pieces align and fit together, what the limits of injection molding a one-piece body are, and so on. It would be interesting to see/compare the Revell '58/'59 'Vette bodies, and see if they had the same or similar mold parting line locations.

Are the 1:1 car's wheels aluminum? Testor's Aluminum buffing Metalizer would be a good choice for that, but you really captured the look of the real thing with this build, especially the ride height. Who made the decals?

The Rat Roaster may be the first vehicle I've seen use the Buick portholes tastefully. They would look even better with hood sides and Enderle or Hilborn injector tubes aligning with each porthole in the hood.

Are the Polyglas tire halves misaligned, Andy? It looks like there's a step where the two halves would mate on the finished tire.

Most R/C stuff close to 1/8 is usually 1/10 scale. I will PM you with some info, Josh. The Big T includes a pair of whitewall pie crust slicks. Are you looking for some wider or different slicks?

Just saw this at Hobby Lobby today, and I noticed only the stock gold decals are included, but this is still perhaps MPC's (don't let the faux-retro AMT box art fool you) best kit ever, and the chassis and suspension should find its way under many a 1/25 scale GM A-body. I think the included rear spoiler is the same as used on the '70 Olds 442 W-30 and Rallye 350, too.

I highly doubt it, too. It appears the trunk (boot) lid is molded as one with the body:

No, please don't. We neither need, nor want, that drama brought over here.

What style of wheel are you looking for, Josh? And which other parts?

I'm 99% sure that's the 1/20 Lindberg kit, issued as a promo for Jeep events. I stumbled upon one on eBay last year, then saw the Lindberg instruction sheet.

It does. Pics of the tires in the kit review, here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=61165

No, no, no. Duece roadsters should never be painted purple, and running boards??? Ick.

Ok, so you're copying and pasting the image link directly into the reply box, correct? If the the image is already hosted somewhere on the web, copy the url (www.pictureiwannacopy/billspage/pictures.jpg or similar), then click the little green tree inside a square icon in the bottom row of the grey-blue header bar, above the reply box. When you hover the cursor over it, it will display "image". Click on it, and a new window will open up and allow you to paste the url of the image into the blank space. Click "OK" once it's pasted, and place your cursor in the body if the message/reply box where you want the image to appear. I don't know if there's a specific list stating which extensions are allowed, but I've haven't had any issues with .jpg or .gif files, either using the method described above or via the attachment feature, but not all images can be copied and pasted. I know I have had issues with the .jpg images files on Tower Hobbies 'site (and it has happened with a few other site's images), and I don't know the correct web-speak term, but I think the images are protected somehow to prevent re-linking(?). Basically, you can't take their image file and re-post it elsewhere. If the images are on your hard drive, I would suggest using the Attachment feature to upload them.