Gary Chastain

Thanks guys for taking time to give me feedback. Going to build the hinge with the rib, I will use four hinges per door as the box is shorter than a semi trailer.

Good color scheme, decals will make it pop.

Can I get some feedback from you guys. The top hinge is the original I made (looks a bit bulky), the bottom hinge is .010 thinner but I added a center rib because I am afraid it will flex and break the glue joint. requires more finish work but you get the idea. Does it need to be longer, reach further out into the door. Appreciate any feedback.

https://www.sourkrautsmodeltrucks.net/modeltrucks/p/nut-and-bo i knew I had seen brass bolts somewhere, Sourkraut has them.

Like where that is going, good luck with print

Speechless, you guys just keep raising the bar, museum quality for sure.

I would interpret the arrow as going under. ??

Thanks Randy, I seem to have a short coming, being unable to accept kits quality and trying to define improvements. I have to finish the rear door/hinges, then I can attach the rear plate to the box, finish the body work, then rivets. I have never done rivets a such a large scale, a first. So this could be awesome or another project that gets thrown into my box of bad ideas.

All three decal kits look good, curious to what you decide.

Chassis details look spot on, well done. I gotta get some more Meng bolts, running low. I did see somewhere , you can get brass bolts like the meng bolts.

That looks really good

The colors and the decals work good together, gonna be a looker.

Wow, well heal up quickly

Yes, kinda agree with you, thought I would let them sit and see what I think in the am. I would like to have three hinges per side, so making them a bit smaller would keep them from dominating the doors. See where this goes. Do appreciate the feedback, thanks.

Yes sir, I will try that first, if that fails, then recreate from scratch

The detailing is addictive and hard to say when you have enough. But wow it pays big when the build is complete.

Wow, that looks outstanding, well done. This one is gonna look really good on the shelf.

Thanks, but you should see the box of junk I have tried to make, even a whole truck that is just too messed up to finish. Been stealing parts off it.

Think I will be building barn doors for my box with a cart ramp between the frame rails. Seen one today at the gas station setup that way. Spent a couple hours making different hinges for the doors. They need more work, but not sure I like them. also have a set off door locks but they are too long, maybe an idea will hit me to build my own.

Thanks Jeff, I have never used the weld line, but when I build fuel tank, the filler neck should have a weld line around them. Might have to get some and experiment. Thanks Charles, also got a belt/disk sander combo to fix up as well. Just can’t find the odd size belt length

Great video for installing Archer rivets and details.

There are several builds going on right now on this forum that just make you want to try more details, more fab work and more pushing your skills. Really great fun.

You guys just keep raising the bar on quality builds, love it.

Your skills are top notch, impressive

The rest of the Archer rivets came today, so I started the layout. Wall studs are on 16 inch centers, .64 scale inches, 15 studs total Wall sheeting is 48inches, 1.92 scale inches, 5 rows of rivets .78 spaced rivets, G scale Non seam of two sheets is 10 rows of rivets 1.85 spaced rivets G scale Floor cross members are on 12 centers for 20ft box, 16 inch centers on shorter boxes, 12 inch centers is .48 scale inches, O scale rivets All radius seams (silver corners) will be O scale rivets, .55 spaced rivets plastic strips will be added to replicate the raised portions of the bottom aluminum and edges of the radius corners. example below need to do a bit of body work and finish/attach rear door section before layout/application of rivets. But got a plan and material gathered ???