Mothersworry

I like it.

I like it.

Well I have. I'm always tryin to find ways to further idiot-proof my workspace so while playin website roulette on the internet I found these goodies on a website called "Jeff Did It" (also on Amazon and Esty with the same seller name). I'm pretty impressed, the stuff is 3d printed in various colors with rubber feet on the bottom. They have holders fer all kinds of hobby type bottles.

Cady decals were much easier to work with.

Yes,...purple LEDs exist. I believe they are commonly used as grow type lights as they are ultraviolet kinda like a blacklight.

I believe that the Model Car Garage Anglia/Thames photo-etch set #2029 has the type of hinges that yer lookin for.

Yup, Fugimi did get the wheels wrong, but I can live with it.

A couple more...

MCW has on their website a section called "Downloads and order form", in the page you will find detailed info on using MCW products. I have on several occasions called MCW to ask specific questions and they have always been very helpful.

MCW "enamels" are automotive paints, synthetic I believe...they are not Testors type hobby paints. Mineral spirts or similar enamel thinners will not work to reduce the paint for airbrushing. I have used lacquer thinner to reduce the paint and had no problems. Mr Color thinners should also work well. Keep in mind that using lacquer thinner will "heat up" the paint and could possibly attack the plastic without a good primer/sealer first applied to the model. MCW also has their own reducer.

Thank you Robert...

Another one...

If yer a DIY type you could build a pretty nifty paint booth that does not require outside venting. In Scale Auto Enthusiast magazine, issue number 135, January 2001 on page 22, Pat Coverts Tips & Tech column detailed building a self contained paint booth. The fish tank type filtering system is pretty clever Fer what it's worth... Administrator....I don't know about copy right laws but I don't think posting the article here is a violation of some law, if I'm mistaken please delete.

Fuel injection is all good and well...progress I suppose, nuthin wrong with that. But I fondly remember the sound that my '70 Super Bee would make when the front and rear carbs would kick in...divine music.

Built some years ago from a Monogram Boss 429 kit, adapted a Nascar Ford small block and the Shaker scoop from the Revell Mach I with Cady decals. Cut off the molded in wipers and added separate door handles and moved the battery back under the hood.

A few of mine....

All of the above is good advice.... I add a small drop or two of blue Dawn dish soap to a cup of warm water when Appling decals. This tends to make the water more "slippery" making it easier to position decals. Once the decal is in place I use the appropriate setting solution to get the decal to snuggle down. In my experience Micro Sol & Micro Set are fairly benign, generally not very aggressive, so they work well on simple surfaces such as flat or slightly curved panels. Solvaset on the other hand tends to be more aggressive at softening decal for more complicated surfaces....but this depends on the decals, some decals respond well to just a little bit of solvent and others may be entirely solvent proof. I do recommend that you test the decal solvents on the decal that you are using to determine just how sensitive the decal is to solvents. Fer what it's worth...

Thank you fer yer comment, all of the seat ventilators are hand painted.

Fujimi GT40 kit pretty much outta the box with Cady decals.

Groovy!

I like it....well done.

As far as I know no one is currently doing a standard '71 - '73 Mustang hood to fit the Revell Boss 351 or Mach I kits. But I wouldn't sweat it, the Eleanor version of the Revell '71 Mustang will be here soon enough. Shown below are the parts that Revell has tooled up to do Eleanor.

AMT '29 Ford roadster, stripped the chrome and shot it with Revell spray chrome. I use nitrile archival gloves when handling the "re-chromed" parts and have zero issues with marring the parts. It's shiny but looks more like nickel than chrome which in this case is OK as Hank used nickel plating on most of the shiny bits instead of chrome. For what it's worth I prefer Green Stuff World Chrome for airbrush as it looks more like chrome and seems to be more durable than Revell Chrome and certainly not nearly as costly.

Johan Maverick front bumper in airbrushed Green Stuff World chrome.