François

In order to complete the front brakes assembly, I need to fabricate the perrot shafts which are these things And here is where they are mounted on the car. I wondered why they would name this part after a bird. It turns out it's actually named after it's inventor, Henry Perrot. Besides, the bird is a pArrot. Live and learn. Quite ingenous guy. This shaft transfers the rotation mouvement from the inboard linkage driven by the brake pedal to the shoe cam that activates the brake shoes. The reason it needs to be double jointed is to allow suspension and steering mouvement while braking. Another fun fact. With a double universal jointed shaft, it's important for both joint to be rotationnaly aligned. This will reduce the speed variation from input to output. I did the mistake of rotating 2 joint by 90deg in one of the very first machine I designed back in 87... didn't work so good. I'm not sure it would matter all that much in this case since the perrot shaft does a max rotation of 15/20 deg only. I'll be using 3/32 dia aluminium tubing to fabricate my perrot shafts. Normaly, they are hidden under a gator. Depending on how nice they turn out, I might cover only one and leave other visible.

Merci Pierre !!⁸

The rear brake linkage is done, and it works. Here are a few pictures and videos. 20230928_154834.mp4 20230928_154605.mp4 Started on the front brake and handbrake linkage The transmission is in. Everything rotates from the clutch to the rear wheels 20230928_155140.mp4 And last for today, trial fitting of the gear motor (mounted in the starter bracket

Absmiami, the plan is to cover the body structure with a 4 way stretch fabric so I would like to avoid painting the skin if possible. So the clutch is done and the spring loaded spigot works. 20230927_200933.mp4 As for my gear motor idea, I found a vefy small planetery gear motor. I bought two different ratios, 136:1 and 700:1. They measure 6mm dia which is perfect. I'll mount it in an excentric housing so I can fine tune the center distance between the pinion and ring gear and play with different pinion/ring gear ratios. Motor without housing Motor with housing

I woke up this morning asking myself, when is enough detail enough. Didn't take long to find the answer, never. Frankly, if I can do a specific detail, why not. I'm saying this because today I decided to look at the clutch since it needs to fit properly with the clutch fork I made. Now since it looks like I will have a brake pedal that actually activates the brake when depressed, why not have a clutch pedal that also does something. My idea is to modify the clutch housing by removing the moulded center spigot and replacing it with a spring loaded spigot that is in contact with the clutch actuating fork. Depressing the clutch pedal would push on the spigot and make it move. Sorry but that's where the mouvement stops, I don't plan on doing an actual clutch. I know it's alot of work for a very little mouvement but like I said at the start of this post, if I can do it, why not. I forgot to take a picture of the clutch before I started to cut it up but fortunately, it was 3d modeled. So here's what the kit clutch looks like. And the real thing Here's what l'll be doing, replacing the moulded center spigot with a brass outter flanged sleeve and an inner spring loaded spigot. Since it's the clutch, via the square hole on the center moulded spigot, that drives the transmission shaft, I need to lock the new spring loaded spigot so it can still drive the trans while moving in and out freely. I made a small slot thru the spigot and will drive a pin thru it. All the parts are done and ready for finish. Here's a little video of the clutch fork activating the spigot. 20230926_203350.mp4 Another crazy idea a have is to install a micro gear motor where the starter would be and to hook it up to the ring gear. This would rotate the crank and pistons all the way down to the rear wheels. I did a bit of research on micro gear motors but everything is to big. I would need something no bigger than 10mm dia x 25mm long. Does anyone know a source for small motors?

Here are a few progress links to different projets I did. It will give you a better idea of what I could do for you. 1/8 fully scratch built wood kayay https://photos.app.goo.gl/vDYPEAAJ8iWuo8wz9 1/12 super detailed Alfa romeo 8c 2300 https://photos.app.goo.gl/q9tNynVn8YGu8Dtz7 1/16 fully scratch built 24 foot wooden sailboat https://photos.app.goo.gl/6ks7gpocCrRXCnnbA 1/12 super detailed Airfix Bentley Blower (in progress) https://photos.app.goo.gl/p2DahEAtoFRgju8eA Happy browsing François fr.faucher@videotron.ca 514 947-4842

A few more sub assemblies completed. The final drive shaft The pedal cluster assy. Here's what I was aiming for And what I came up with Test pedal on the left and final result on the right. Mounted on the pivot shaft are the clutch fork followed by the clutch pedal and the brake pedal to the right. The accelarator pedal will be located between the clutch and the brake but doesn't pivot on the same shaft. Notice the Bentley pedal pads. The rear brake tierods And here are a few pictures of some subs in place. 20230925_201005.mp4

Here's a recap of the sub assemblies completed (or close to) Frame fuel tank Front axel (with working brakes) Rear axel (with working brakes) Bulkhead and steering column (steerable) Transmission I should start assembling some of them together shortly

It never fails, you start on one thing and it leads you to something else. Yesterday, I started to assemble the brake linkage. But in order to continue, I need to install the rear axel. But in order to do that, I need to install the drive shaft. And that's where everything went sideways. The kit's drive shaft, while being ok, is not great. First it need to be made out of a straight tube, it should not be tapered at both ends. Second, it need to be telescopic and last, the bolting flanges (to bolt the shaft ends to the rrar axel and to the gear box are missing. So I set out to 3d model a new shaft and to test print the parts. Doing a new shaft helps me 2 fold, it will look a lot more like the real thing but more important, the telescopic action will aid the assembly. And once in place, I'll lock the telescopic tube together. If you remember, I added some internal gears in the differentiel casing so turning the transmission will rotate the wheels. The kit's drive shaft My 3d model And my test shaft

Started the assembly of the brake linkage, another step towards working brakes!! I'll need to incorporate a return spring somewhere, not sure how it was done on the real car and I can't find in info on it. Here's what my linkage looks like do far. 20230921_203610.mp4

Here is the finished steering column By adding a 1/4 dia aluminium tubing over the plastic casing, it actually brought it to the correct scaled dimension. The tubing is 3 in dia, which scaled down 1/12 comes to 1/4. I also added the clamps at both ends. Here's a real one I 3d modeled the steering wheel flange mount and center cap whit the proper throttle and ignition identification. Not sure how it will show up after printing.

As nice a builb as John's was, his batteries were not correct. At least not if reproducing Birkin's or the continuation (which wasn't built back then). I posted pictures showing the real battery tray and reproduced that. Thanks anyway Bugatti fan !

I fabricated the steering link and steer rods out of aluminium tubing. The kit parts are not that bad but they lack threaded studs for attaching and frankly, It more fun to make new one than simply paint the kit part. Also did some prep work on the steering column. I already modified the column a few months ago to incorporate a worm and gear. Now, I added some details so it looks more like the real thing. First, here is the real column. And here is the kit column I printed a flange to simulate the curved end of the casting and since the real column is made from an aluminium tubing, I added an aluminium tubing over the plastic kit part. I also added a nut and disk on top of the casting as per the real thing. I should paint it tomorrow.

I finaly solved another mystery mecanism (a mystery for me at least). The infamous brake ajuster. It's a set of 3 pulleys, the center one being ajustable. I couldn't figure out where the cable running on these pulleys came from or went to. It turns out that the cable replaces the tie rod going from the brake pedal to the long actuator lever. I imagine that the mecanism permitted the driver to ajust the brakes while driving. As if the driver didn't have enough to do already, double clutch, ajust retard/advance, look at the gazilion gages, try not to die...

Ok, so after about 5 minutes of mulling, I redid the battery and the rack. Here's what it looks like on the continuation car (and Birkin's also) The 3d remoldeled And the new battery and rack I based the battery on a vintage part offered on a Bentley spare parts site

Thanks peteski ,I've searched a bit more and have found out that the Tim Birkin car, on which my ref car is based, had only one 12 volt battery mounted under the floor on the drivers side. I'll mull it over tonight but I'll probably redo the battery tray and make one 12 volt battery. What bugs me the most is that I had just painted the frame yesterday. Oh well, live and learn!!

Not much info on the web about the wire color but in the boating world, where serie connected batteries seem to be commun, the consensus is red with a black tape applied at the neg end. So I guess I'll leave it red. As for the location, I took a closer look at my picture gallery and found this. It's very fussy but it clearly shows a battery located in the frame. It would have been under the floor boards.

Thanks peteski I found this. It would seem that the two 6 volts battery in series is correct. Should the wire going from the positive to negative be black or is red ok? I still don't know where they were located but under the floor seems like as good a place as any. They certainly were not in the engine bay, that would have been very easy to find in pictures.

That's part of my problem peteski, I can't find any pictures of the battery setup on the 1:1. When you say connected in series, you mean one connecter to the other and from there going to the starter and whatnots ?

Big John, I know a lot about the mecanical aspect of cars but praticaly nothing about the electrical. I'll take your word for it that they are 6 volts. I finished the batteries today, quite happy with the result. my inspiration for these batteries came from John Teresi's bentley built back in 2012. I did change a few things from is design.

As I was preparing the frame for paint, I realised that I forgot to install the battery box support. I could not find any info for this on the continuation series recently built and not much more on the original ones. So I winged it a bit. I also based my design on a previous built done back in 2012. I added 2 'c' channels that will hold an aluminium battery box. the 2 cubes will eventualy be the batteries onces dressed up.

I'm back on the Bentley. Did a bit of prep work on the resin print batch i received. I should do a bit of painting later this week. Here are a few pictures. Brake compensator shaft assy Front brake lever shaft hub Wheel hub assy with knockoff(It really screws on!!)

Well, another completed project. The painting will be done by the customer. It was a different build for me but still very fun. So now, it's back to the Bentley !!

Did the telescopic cylinder today, and it actually works using my airbrush compressor. Also simulated the welds on the dump body using tamiya putty and a custom printed super thin nozzle. The brass tubing will be replaced by an aluminium part.

Hello all, it's been a while since my last post. I've been busy with another project but should be getting back on the Bentley soon. I received a bunch of resin printed parts today. So I'll be able to start on the wire wheels and the brake linkage. Still waiting for the. 3mm neoprene for the body.