François

Worked on the blower feed tube today. I removed the moulded features at both ends of the part. These moulded features represent a rubber coupling with 3 hose clamps and tie rods. This is the real thing. And here is mine without the clamps And once finished Next. I tackled what seems to be the oil filler neck. it's this thing. Pointed in red is the filler tube, in blue the cap release lever and in green the cap pivot assy which has a pivot shaft and 2 levers connected to extension springs. I 3d modeled it the best I could considering the bad picture and lack of info I have. This is what I have. 20231028_195245.mp4 I'll print the cap and levers, the rest I'll either modify or build from scratch. I also finished modeling the magneto linkage.

Oops, sorry bugatti. Zoet, on Amazon. Thank you very much Don. Just so nobody thinks I invented the double fan set up, here's a shot of my ref car with the fans mounted. (Sorry for the fussyness, it was taken from a video)

Did some more work on the throttle and magneto linkage. The parts are very small, not sure that they are printable. I would really have liked to be able to adjust the magnetos from the stator control on the steering wheel but I can't find any info on just how it's done. I know that there is a lever of some sort mounted at the end of the steering column but don't know what it looks like.

Since I wasn't sure how good it would work, I went with another brand. 3 different size markers for 16$ instead of 1 molotow for 22$. I wouldn't use them on a large surfaces but for small parts and touch ups they seem to do the job.

Made the spark plugs and plug wires today. Not sure I like the wire I used. At .5mm dia, the scale is good (about 1/4" scaled up) but it's not as smooth as the ones on my ref car. I'lI look for something else. also installed the now finished water pump. Very happy with the result. I started 3d modeling the magneto advance/retard ajustement linkage. Should look like this. I bought some liquid chrome markers. Very impressive !!

I'll see what I can do with this one before scrapping it. I'll empty it out, give it the proper shape at the bottom and insert some mesh, I'll see where I stand after that. But that's for later. For now, I'll concentrate on finishing the engine. Still have the plugs, wiring, coolant pipe, the advance/retard and throttle linkage and much more to do.

Almost done with the water pump. After a bit of research, I finally figured out where the lower 'y' connection goes to. They connect on bottom of the radiator Unfortunately, the kit's radiator doesn't provide these connections. I can see more major modifications in my futur

I finished installing the side covers on the engine block.

Hello everyone, I just wanted to remind you all that I offer my 3d modeling and 3d printing services. I can design custom parts for you to enhance your build. Here are some exxamples of what I've done. FOR THE AIRFIX BENTLEY BLOWER Engine inner parts 20231009_192359.mp4 Bulkhead assembly Pedal cluster Drive shaft Steering link Wheel hubs with brake drum knockoff butterfly and center bolt (for rear or front) Brake adjuster Fuel pump Tach drive Hand brake Intake manifold Steering wheel with stator control Water pump Fan assembly Miscellaneous parts You can email or call me for more info and to discuss your needs. fr.faucher@videotron.ca 514 947-4842

I assembled the brake adjuster today, I would need a strongher return spring to properly stretch the cable but my parts would not take the stress. But it still fonction as it should. The cable can be tensionned by turning the adjuster knob, this would have compensated for brake pad wear. Here are some progress and finished pictures and a video of the working mecanism. 20231022_210140.mp4 Also redid the steering wheel using the rice tape described in my previous post.

I'm rethinking the steering wheel. I really don't like my first try, the heat shrink is too bulky and out of scale. I even tried heat shrinking over a smaller section arm but that didn't work either, the heat melted the plastic. So I'm scraping the shrink idea altogether. I'm going to try using super thin rice paper tape (about .002" think) to simulate the plastic cover used over the spider arms. So let me remind you of my goal. My first try with the head shrink. my first rice paper test (not as bulky as the heat shrink) the rice paper and newly printed wheel center l'm also slowly advancing with the engine dress up, I've got the second aluminium cover plate installed and drilled. Still have to put the bolts on.

Not much done today. Fan assembly done. And water pump face plate mounted. It was noted that the steering wheel arms are maybe a bit big and I have to agree. I'll reprint the center portion and see it I can heat shrink on a narrower arm and maybe compensate with the print the too thick heat shrink.

Up date time, I've been busy on many fronts at the same time. 1- Due to "peer pressure", I remodeled the water pump and from cover to better reflect the picture posted by nick. I had it resin printed instead of trying to print it myself. The result should be alot better. The real thing The 3d model The new pump (still drying) And the cover plate (also still drying) 2- I started to assemble the brake ajuster but I'm still missing a few aluminium parts that I need to fabricate. 3- I modified the steering wheel. The one on my ref car has plastic covering on the 4 spider branches. In order to do this, I removed the center portion on the wheel, printed a new one, inserted 4 heat shrink tubes, glueds the 4 branches to the wheel and shrunk the tubes. Looks ok to me. I also started assembly of the stator control that mounts on the steering wheel. My ref car steering wheel The kit's wheel (sorry for the poor picture) Heat shrink test All the parts ready to assemble The finished wheel and with stator control 4- received the fans. I had to make a sanding jig to sand the mounting surface of the fan housing. They look very nice and they spin! Jig and parts before sanding Housing in jig Fan assembled Back from paint 5- started to instead the gazilion bolts on the engine block aluminium cover plates. 1 done. 2 more to go. 6- the engine block is all painted, lower portion aluminium. Core black and top chrome. 7- finalized the handbrake release lever

I recently was commisionned to make 10 fire truck siren. 1/25 scale model Federal ZL. They are highly detailed and ready for finish. unfortunately for me, my client is a no show. They are available.

Thanks David, that's exactly what my boss used to say to me when I designed machines, "don't know what you're doing or where you're going with this but I can't wait to see the result"

The pump is almost done, just need to put the bolts on the front flange and a couple of black hoses and clips. Althougt it's not a very complex part, it was a pain to print with the type of printer I have. I really need to get myself a resin printer. I also finished the handbrake linkage. Just need to chrome the lever.

Thank you David, that's very kind. A member from another forum noted that I made a mistake with the water pump. I assumed that the left side water pump connection was going to an outlet ( or inlet) on the engine block. It turns out that it's actually plugged. Looking at one of my ref pictures, I can clearly see it now. That connection would have been used only on non-blown models where it would have been connected to a hose going back up to a thermostat

Test

Here are the modeled fans. 20231014_215137.mp4

I started the front end of the engine, the water pump and magnetos. Like previously stated in many other blogs, the pump on the kit is nowhere near what it is in real life. This is what the kit provides what it should look like And what I would like to do As for the magnetos, I'll try to add the likage coming from the steering column stator shaft. And also the 2 fans

Thank you all for the positive feed back. I continued on the engine today, fabricated the engine block side and end plate out of polished aluminium sheet. Normaly, both side plates would be full but I made a special one with openings so that the pistons can be seen in motion. This feature wasn't present on the Alfa romeo. On that model, the moving parts can only be seen from underneath. Also did some weathering on the internal engine parts and assembled it. After a bit of tweaking, the pistons move up and down 20231009_192359.mp4 I inserted the cylinder core assembly in the engine housing and did a trial run with the slower of the 2 gearmotors I ordered, 700:1, 46 rpm. I'm hoping that the 136:1 will be strong enough. Please keep in mind it's just a test fitting. Once complet, the gearmotor will look like the starter. You'll notice that the power source is the actual car battery, I inserted 2 button batteries inside it. So, like the infamous Dr. Frankenstein once said, "IT'S ALIVE!!" 20231009_203423.mp4 20231009_204038.mp4

Still working on the engine and alot has been done in the past few days. Here's what been done. 1- Removed the exhaust manifold mounting plates to make painting easier as the bloc will be painted aluminium (bottom) black (center) and chrome ( top and vertical drive shaft housing). New 3d printed plates will be installed later on. 2- removed the 'want to be' engine core to lower casing mounting stud and will replace with real nuts The real thing The same will be done on the intake manifold side. 3- speaking of the intake manifold, I 3d modeled it and will replace the moulded one. I also added alot of details to this section like correct timken style lock nuts and tach drive housing. The moulded manifold The 3d modeled one The tach drive housing The real housing 4- when I first designed the internal engine components, I added the cam shaft drive gears thinking it would be fun if they actually worked but really thinking that they would not. Well it turns out that they do work. From the gear mounted on the crank all the way up to the bevel gear mounted on the cam shaft. Except the the cam shaft is not really a shaft but just a plastic cylinder that was printed with the head. printed cam shaft So, I decided to crank it up a notch and add a proper rotating cam shaft that goes thru the head from front to back. That way, I'll also drive the dynamo coupling. Here how I did it. I had to drill a 3/32 dia hole thru the head. To do so, I printed a drill jig to properly hold the head and drill thru. Head drilled and with a 3/32 dia aluminium tubing that acts as a bushing for the cam shaft. All internal parts And voila, a rotating cam shaft (and dyno coupling) 20231007_214148.mp4 First test fitting on frame

Did more engine prep today. In order to better show case the internal engine components once the model is completed, I made a side window on the engine block where an aluminium sheet would normaly be. Not sure yet just how I'll finish it up but I'll think of something. I made the opening on the exhaust side (passanger) seeing it's less crowded on that side. Another view point will be from under. So I added some small magnets to the oil pan so it can be easily removed. I honed the 4 cylinder bore using a honemade honing tool. Not very sophisticated but it works. Some progress shots With pistons randomly inserted Honing tool Magnets on oil pan

I finally went with a balloon for the gaiter, the kind you make balloon animals with. I now that latex will eventualy degrade but when it happens, I'll have 2 visible perrot shafts instead of 1. So, aside from the hand brake plus à few parts to paint, the brake are done. 20231003_160330.mp4 while I'm waiting for a few printed parts for the handbrake, I started to tinker with the engine. Won't be easy to get everything aligned and working but I try my best. So far, I've got the 2 upper bevel gears test fitted. Plus alot of sanding and tweaking done. 20231003_202301~2.mp4

Today I fabricated the 2 perrot shafts. Really hard to do but I'm quite pleased with the result for 2 reasons, first I think they look pretty good and second, they work as they should. They transfert the rotary motion from the brake linkage to the brake shoes even when the wheel is steered. Here are some pictures and videos of the process. The prototype All parts cut I used a small styrene rod to make the yoke and a .01 dia nickel rod for the pivot All done In action 20231002_160050.mp4 20231002_152250.mp4 I tried to make a gator to cover 1 of the 2 shafts by rolling a piece of nitrile rubber but the results are not very promissing so far. Unless I find a small (about 3/16 dia) and very thin tubing, I might leave both shafts visible.