François

Ace, this is what the web says: "It is technically a roadster, despite being referred to as a coupé. This is because the vehicle started out as a coupé, and Schmidt did not want to rename it after it was converted into a roadster." kind of a strange explanation considering that Schmidt is a movie charactor... oh well, the car is still nice...

Hi all, I finaly started my next project. As mentionned in my Pocher Rolls Royce restoration wip, I wanted to transform the Rolls into the Hydra Coupe. But the Rolls being a 1/8 scale model, the would make the Hydra at over 36 inches long. A bit much. So I decided to leave the Rolls and it's restoration for later and will be making the Hydra in a more reasonable 1/12 scale. A scale that I know and like very much. It will still be a huge model at a little over 24 inches long and 8 inches wide. But it should be more manageable. Another plus is that I can use some parts from my bentley project as references since it's also 1/12. This model will be 100% scratch built or rather 3d printed. Some aluminium and brass will be used here and there along with leather for the seats but otherwise, it will be made of printable resin. Like on the Bentley, I would like to have a working engine and drive train. The difficulty will be to find the info since this car doesn't really exist other then as a movie prop. All I have are a few pictures. I also know that the rear drive train is based on the 1940 (or about) Mercedes G4. I did find some info on that. But otherwise, I'll be using some major 'modelers leeway ' to create most parts. I don't intent to do as much details as I did on the Bentley but, then again, I might get carried away. So the first step is to design the 3d model before printing anything. So far, I've got the tires and wheels done plus I started the rear drive. Being a 6 wheeler, it has 2 differentiels and 2 drive shafts. Plus a pretty funky suspension system. For those of you that have no idea what the Hydra coupe is and as a reminder for the others, here's what I'm aiming for Here's the G4 drive train and here's what been done so far boy, do l have a long ways to go!

Thank you! Big John, l like to thing that the miror is more a water spill from the radiator. Less harmfull... as long as it's not prestone!! The spill is just a first test, the shape is wrong.

I played around a bit wirh the case floor. I found a light gray cardboard to act as tla concrete floor, I added a few oil stains (it's a british car, they leak) and some tire tracks. I also added a cast iron floor grate. The idea with the grate is to have a water puddle under the radiator/engine block area that will drain towards it. The water will be made with a very thin flexible plastic miror. I'll position the puddle so that the engine can be seen without the need for a full mirored floor. The puddle in the pictures is only a test, but the rest is pretty much final. I also finished the lighting control panel, I used a hand wheel in lieu of a knob to ajust the intensity. Many thanks to LaughingIndian and big John for the inspiration. 20240704_161918.mp4 Nameplate not fixed yet

Thanks for the feedback, I do like the idea of the greyish floor with a few tire marks and a small miror under the engine to show the rotating crank shaft. I'll play around with it a bit. I added a turntable under the case and passed the lighting feedwire thru the center so it can easy rotate a few turns. I also made a second electrical box to house the lighting potentiometer. Should be cool. Pictures to come later this week.

I'm pretty close to having the final setup in the display case. I've positionned the car and the boby in a way that I think shows them off properly. My only concern being, is it too busy. I'm not sure about the mirored floor. I'm exposing on August 4th at my local hobby shop it' not an official meet, it's more of a combo model car/ real antique car day. So I'll bring the Triumph Tr6 along with a few model. I'll be able to see how the bentley in it's display case is received.

Thank you absmiami. Every good word that you all have said means a lot. I really would like to expose somewhere but I just don't know where. There are very few model shows in Canada and close to none in Québec. Going south would be an option. Salted and buttered the pop corn?

I completed the display case today and with that done, this build is now 100% finished. I just need to decide how to position the car in the case. My original idea was to display the body on the cart I made so the all the mechanics I added on the frame could be visible. I have to test both configuration and see which is best. For now, the body is on the frame and it sure looks good. Here are a few pictures. This was my original idea the real case with body on frame All window panels riveted And to finish it off, a little video 20240624_202341~2.mp4

I did a bit of work on the display case lights. A lot of wiring to do but so far so good. I first tested my connections to make sure that all 6 lights were functional after parallel hook up. Then I started the final wiring with soldered connections. In lieu of shrink tubes to cover the exposed wires (not enough space) I poored some transparent glue in the jonction boxe to cover the wires and keep then from moving.

Took some pictures of the finished model. I'm definatly better at making models than photography but still, I think some are good. Interior With top up Motor And next to another 1/12 scale model (at least until I finish the display case) Voilà !!

Bugatti fan, you're probably right about scratch building most of it. I might be able to use the wheel hubs, brake linkage, steering mecanism, the frame that would need to be stretched, motor ( which I would need to transform into a V12, reprint the block and 1 new head). The motor should actually be a V16, I'll see when and if I get there. It would certainly be a massive build, both literally and figuratively.

I finaly got around to making my web site. I'm no web designer so it's simple but I think all necessary info is présent. www.3designmodels.com

Hello all, I just wanted to do a little update on this futur project. I've been scratching my head as to what direction this restoration should take. Partiel or full resto? Moderate or extreme add ons? Keep the rolls stock or venture in some modifications ? Well, I think I found what I would like to do. You see, I'm a big fan of Marvel films. And this summer, I decided to watch them all while I do my rowing every morning (less boring that way). The first one (when taken cronologicaly) is Captain America. And that's when my idea came. I'll try to transform the Rolls into Red Skull's Hydra coupe. Witch is this. You have to admit there is a certain resemblance (with a lot of imagination) It would requier massive modifications, at 1/8 scale, the Hydra car would be over 3 feet long and 1 foot wide. Not sure if I would bring it to that size but I would certainly go the 6 wheel route with the extra long hood and super cool rear end. This car being nothing more than a movie prop, I feel I could do just about whatever I want without offending too many people. More to come...

Well, the dashboard is done and with it, so is this build. Took me a little over 1 year but I think it was well worth the effort. I still need to finish the display case and to do a good dusting of the model. I'll eventually take some nicer pictures of the complete setup but until then, here are a few shots of the finished dashboard. Vs the real thing Vs the real thing thank you for following my build, hope you enjoyed it.

All the dashboard parts are printed and painted. All that is left to do is to cut the gage facia, install them and to glue all the components in place. Here's a few pictures. The gage facia artwork ready to be cut (again, thanks to Nick from Britmodeller) and a few shots of the dashboard assembly ( not glued up yet) And the real thing

Kensar, I bought it on Amazon 2 years ago. A bit cheap but it works for me. It's 78mm from under base to top of Table. TEXALAN Multifunction Worktable Milling Working Cross Table Compound Drilling Slide Table for Bench Drill Adjustment X-Y 310X90MM

Ok, dashboard update time. I've read alot about engine turning and one thing I've learned is that at this scale, it's call jewelling or 'perlage' in french and is a finish found on high end watches. Engine turning for much larger applications. Both methods are identical except jewelling will requier a very small tool. Here's what jewelling looks like. My idea of a multi stage jig didn't work, it was too complicated. The idea was to have a plate that held an aluminium sheet in place while also locating the different drilling jig, 4 in all (thus the multi stage). Each drill jig had a different hole pattern that guided the jewelling tool. Once all 4 jig used, I would have the jewelling pattern. The main problem was that the holes could only receive a certain diameter tool. A change in diameter meant 4 new jig to reprint. It was also difficult to see what I was doing. Here's the jig Instead, I designed a simple 2 part tooling. A lower plate that has .09" dia pins spaced at .72" (8×.09) intervals and a upper plate that has a .09" diameter notch every .09". A total of 33 notchs. Why a .09" pitch? I wanted a pattern that would look good at 1/12 scale so I opted for .09". The tooling is mounted on my small xy table. So by moving the upper plate from notch to notch, I create a line of jewelling exactly spaced by .09". Once a row is done, I move the 'X' and 'Y' axis by half a pitch (.045") and start another row. With this method, the tool diameter is less important since it doesn't have to fit in a hole. Here's the fixture. (It's printed in clear resin) I made several jewelling tool test. I tried a fine grit sand paper glued to the end of a steel dowel but it was very difficult to get the right pressure. I tried a wooden dowel, same difficulty. I then tried a very old and dried up pencil eraser and that seemed to work. But it was too big. After a bit of research, I found a eraser pencil. It's a pencil that has an eraser core instead of a lead core. It can be easily sharpen to get the point diameter I want. Here's the eraser pencil( the gray is the eraser) and here's the setup in action 20240610_151820~2.mp4 And the final result I then applied a paper template on it to drill all the gage mounting holes and to pre trim. I printed a profiling jig to get the final shape by following the outside of the jig. and after profiling The the final result So this is how I made a jewelled (engine turned) dashboard plate without sophisticated machinery.

Ok, break's over, time to finish this thing. I completed the 3d model of the dashboard. Nick, from Britmodeler, gave me his gauge facia art work. I'll send him some 3d files of a few parts I'm pretty sure he did not model yet in exchange. So that's one problem solved. The next hurdle is the dash aluminium face plate. It has an engine turning pattern on it. I came up with a (possible) solution to create the pattern without the aid of sophisticated equipement such as a milling machine or cnc. I designed a multi stage jig that should help me do the pattern manually. More on that later on. Here is the completed 3d model of the dashboard. A real dashboard I also made the last of the 3 filler spouts.

Hello, I stumpled on the build while searching who else is doing a Bentley. Very nice job and many added details. You did an excellent modrl. I've been working on my own version of the Blower for over 1 year and am very close to completion. If anyone is interested, here is my build log. https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/181907-airfix-112-bentley-blower/

The soft top is finished. I'll eventually make a cover for it when it is down. The final step will be the dashboard but I might take a little break before. In the meantime, here are some pictures of the car so far.

I found a drawing of à bentley with the top up and it's a bit different from what I made. Since I couldn't find any pictures showing my ref car with the top up, I decided to modify my top to look a bit more like the drawing. As a bonus, it will better show the foldable top frame.

I made the rear window for the top. I printed a window surround and also cut a plastic window. Then I drilled a 0.6mm dia hole in the center of the foldable frame pivot screws and inserted a small brass nail to simulate a snap to hold down the sides of the soft top. And finally I drilled small holes on the end of the tub and inserted brass nails thru the soft top to hold it in place. Now all that is left to do is to glue the front of the top to the header bar.

Here is the third soft top test. I think I got the shape and the assembly method. Instead of making it out of one piece like the previous tops, I made this one out of 3. One center piece front to back and 2 side pieces. I think it give the top a cleaner line and the joint are more like the real top. I'm still not 100% satisfied with the glue up. I'm using a glue called Speed-sew, it really works well but any overspills are just about none removable. So I might redo it one last time being more careful of the glue application. I still need to figure out how l will attach it to the front bar and to the rear. Top up And down

I made a few more soft top test and with each try, I'm getting closer to something I like. It's a game of compromise, I want a material that looks good but it also needs to be thin and soft enough to fold down. This first test was made using a black coton canvas that looks really good but is a bit stiff. The second test I made with a thinner and softer black polyester and coton blend. It fits better but is a bit sheer. The toughest part is to figure out the shape and where to make the seams.

John, not sure on both but I don't think the lobe profile is all that important for this. If I can get movement of the valve I'll consider it a victory even if they don't open or close at the correct time during the stroke. As for the sequence, John Haddock seems to have a good sequence description in his doc. I didn't take the time to verify it yet but I'm confident it is ok.