ColonelKrypton

Indeed. And all in part or in whole painted in primer gray. cheers, Graham

Very nice. I watched your youtube video on this build the other day. Sure is tiny and the build looked like it took a delicate touch. Very nicely done. There is something about tiny builds that is appealing. I had a go at 1/72 scale Great War aeroplanes and vehicles. In my younger years I managed just fine but lately with age and the usual age related ailments like arthritis and losing some of that delicate touch and dexterity, I find that the smaller scales are no longer for me. There is a gentleman from Australia who scratchbuild Great War aeroplanes ( among other subjects ) in 1/144 scale which are real jewels. This is a link to his latest postings on making wire wheels in 1/144 scale that you might find interesting: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235134957-spoked-wheels-for-an-early-bird/ and one more of completed aeroplane just for interest sake: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235130624-over-the-adriatic-with-a-wet-bottom-v1-models-macchi-m5/ He is writing a book that will be available sometime this year. cheers, Graham

Indeed. cheers, Graham

That is typically true. However, it is easy to get caught up in the endless search for reference material sometimes referred to as "analysis paralysis" when you end up down a bunny hole spending more time researching than building. Like everything else in life there is a fine line between too much and too little. Still, I find the search for good references a pleasant chore even if I sometimes find it frustrating not finding what I want. Good work on the wheel well inners. Out of curiosity I did a quick search, found much, and am now more confused than when I started. Good original reference photos are not always easy to find. Nearly all of the photos I found showing 32 Ford inner wheel wells where of replacement parts, restorations, rebuilds, (etc) and not of an original. Do your research, pick a point, and aim for it. It is a hot rod after all and every builder builds their own way and unless your are trying to reproduce a specific car then there is leeway to make it your way as you like. I like to aim for period correct ( i.e. a 50's or early 60's build ) and it looks like you are spot on. cheers, Graham ( in cold 0 F Eastern Ontario Canada ).

Very nice. Well done. cheers, Graham

I noticed the same thing - nothing in Walmart here for quite some time. In fact, many years ago, the local big box stores in all the malls had good selection of model kits and building supplies but that is long gone. Toy's R Us used to have kits too but that was long ago as well. Amazon.ca has some selection. I am lucky that there are a number of decent hobby stores in the area ( Ottawa, Ontario, Canada ) with good choice. Also a number of Gundam/Gunpla/warhammer/fantasy focused stores. No interest in the kits but lots of interesting other bits, pieces, paints, and supplies. It always pays to support your local stores even if it costs a bit more. I do look deals at Michaels ( etc ) Gotta be frugal too. Times change. Nothing you can do about except change with them. cheers, Graham

Some (maybe all) of the issues with enamels and their availability in recent years may likely be related to regulations which changed in early 2022 with respect to the use of a chemical called (Methyl Ethyl Ketoxime, also known as MEKO or butanone oxime CAS no. 96-29-7. It became unlawful to sell paint containing more than 0.1% concentration of MEKO afterwards. This change may have been one of the driving forces behind the demise of the Testors Model Master enamels - write them off rather than expend the effort to change. https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/blogs/news/methyl-ethyl-ketoxime-meko-and-your-health MEKO is used as an anti-skinning agent in paints and lacquers: https://www.eximcan.com/product/methyl-ethyl-ketoxime-meko/ Humbrol apparently did some reformulating of their products and is still available. Tamiya markets a very nice enamel with a similar colour range to their acrylics and is sold in small square bottles similar in size to the common Testors enamels. Revell has a line of enamel paints that I have not seen in Canada and as far as I know is only available in Europe. Changing regulations and manufactures efforts to change with them is a fact of life. A quick search using Goggle and searching for MEKO Methyl Ethyl Ketoxime model hobby enamel paints ( or some such search terms ) will find many results with much discussion on the subject. cheers, Graham

Hadn't heard that but the local Michaels ( 4 stores in total ) in Ottawa have had very little in the way of model kits. I will ask the next time I am in one of the stores. A pity if they stop altogether. cheers, Graham

That will help as will warming the stripping medium. Chemical reactions increase with temperature and most if not all ultrasonic cleaners also have built in heaters/warmers. cheers, Graham

Good evening all. I posted this elsewhere when the topic of model "chrome" stripper came up. I did a lot of searching online and found many suggestions and in turn tried most. After a lot of testing I came up with method that works reliably for me every time. "chrome" plating on plastic model parts is actually a very thin vapour deposited aluminum. A cleaner which contains sodium hydroxide removes the "chrome" by actually reacting with the aluminum producing a tiny bit of hydrogen as a by product ( the tiny bubbles you may see. The remaining yellow or whatever coating that remains is ( as far as I can find out ) a conductive lacquer. the best thing I have found to remove not only the "chrome" and the underlying lacquer is Tamiya lacquer thinner ( which is mostly isopropyl alcohol ) or Tamiya paint remover either each alone or what I find even better is a 50:50 mix of the two. In fact, if you read the label on Tamiya Paint Remover it also states that it can be used to remove metallic coatings ( i.e. model "chrome" ) These products remove the "chrome" by dissolving the underlaying lacquer layer and the "chrome" comes off as little bits. A typical part will can be stripped of "chrome" and lacquer in about a half hour or so. Some "chrome" can be a bit stubborn so I generally let parts soak overnight. I have left parts in my 50:50 mix for many days with no ill effects on the plastic. A toothbrush will remove any stubborn bits and not damage the plastic. Follow up with a wash in warm soapy water. The Tamiya products are not as inexpensive as household cleaners but can be reused many many times. I have a jar of my 50:50 mix that I have been using for over a year and has been used to de-chrome many parts. Be careful with general lacquer thinners. Lacquer thinner is a generic term and not all lacquer thinners are the same. Hardware store lacquer thinner is more likely closer in composition to model plastic cement and often contains acetone and MEK. For example, Mr Color levelling thinner contains something which will attack polystyrene plastic as does AK Real Colors High Compatibility Thinner. Solveable brand Lacquer which I buy locally contains toluene, acetone, and methyl ethyl ketone which is definitely not polystyrene friendly other than being useful as a plastic cement but is nevertheless sold as "lacquer thinner". Strippers, and household and industrial cleansers may all contain many similar chemicals each having a different purpose. In general they all contain an active ingredient ( i.e. sodium hydroxide or some sort of solvent ), surfactants which enhances their wetting and spreading properties ( better "sticks" and coats the object being cleaned or stripped ), emulsifiers which help keep everything mixed, and likely some form of stabilizer and ph adjuster to optimize the products performance. Do Test Test Test anything new you use. Experiment with other brands and products at your discretion but I have not yet found anything that works better than the two Tamiya products I noted above. Tamiya product numbers: Tamiya Lacquer Thinner 250 ml 87077 ( yellow cap ) Tamiya Paint Remover 250ml 87183 From their safety data sheets, Tamiya lacquer thinner yellow cap product number 87077 contains Propan-2-ol CAS no. 67-63-0 also known as isopropyl alcohol content > 50% 4-methylpentan-2-one CAS no. 108-10-1 also known as isobutyl methyl ketone (not MEK) < 30% 2-butoxyethanol CAS no. 111-76-2 content 5 - <10% CAS - Chemical Abstracts Service assigns a unique registry number to specific chemicals. Many chemicals have numerous names but regardless of name will have the same CAS number. Tamiya Paint Remover product number 87183 contains: Benzylalkohol CAS-Nr. 100-51-6 70 - < 80 % Butyl diglykol CAS-Nr. 112-34-5 10 - < 15 % Dipropylene Glycol Methyl Ether CAS-Nr. 34590-94-8 5 - < 10 % cheers, Graham

very nice. cheers, Graham

Small town Eastern Ontario Canada near Ottawa cheers, Graham

Tuesday now and we are expecting that same storm here in Eastern Ontario (Canada). Almost noon and already a few flurries but the worst is expected this evening and overnight with the snow changing to rain and likely freezing rain. Yuuuccckkkk! ( double yuuuccckkkk! ) Bright side is that there will be some time to spend at the workbench, downside is that it will be a real mess to cleanup. I really like your build and those window cranks are great. cheers, Graham

Indeed. I think I spend more time playing and experimenting with different materials than actually finish building something. I am a bit of a art/craft store supply junky too. It'a all about enjoying the journey.

Agreed. Yes please. I am always looking for better ways and ideas and willing to learn whatever I can. cheers, Graham

Thinking of it some more, armour modelers often use tissue paper coated with PVA glue or very thinning rolled epoxy putty or the "lead" seal from wine bottles for making tarps, canvases, webbing, covers, etc. I will have to experiment with the black plastic garbage bag idea some. Sometimes you can't see what is front you, it pays to play and expirement. cheers, Graham

Very cool. They do look very nice. I will have to keep a piece of black plastic garbage bag near the work bench for inspiration when it strikes. cheers, Graham

Good idea. I will give it a try. I have one of these: https://www.hobcen.com/products/hc3d17-plastruct-no-tip-glue-holder?variant=39262799167617 3d printed for my local hobby store. I did modify mine a bit however, I glued on a bit larger hex shaped base made form 1/4" aluminum which adds more weight on the bottom and makes it nearly impossible to tip over. cheers, Graham

I would agree, the one on the right in the picture does look better for use as a braided hose on a model. However, the one on the left does look like it has higher percentage of coverage. Pictures can be deceiving. The braided covering is given as a percentage and will never be 100%. The manufacturer specs will generally specify. Cable meant for critical applications at very high frequencies will often have not only a high percentage braided covering but will also likely have a metallic foil covering usually under the braid as well. Not all cable is suitable for all applications and you do get what you pay for depending on your requirements but there will always be exceptions. What is suitable as a model detailing accessory is not necessarily suitable for use to wire up a module in a microwave communications system. Not at all. My comment about the eye just seeing what it wants to see is not about poor effort or accepting same; rather it is about the psychology of how we see and what we see when we view certain things. For example, as a mechanically inclined car nut we know that an engine has ignition wires fuel lines, etc. When we view a model engine compartment we have a certain expectation to see some of these things. If the ignition wires are larger than scale we accept that as we expected to see them and they were there whereas the lay person with little or no knowledge would likely not notice one way or the other. Whether or not as a model builder you have added these extra details such as wiring or fuel lines or battery cables, or brake lines ( etc ) is always your own personal choice. You are the one who decides what you add or include, no one else. cheers, Graham

Urs, Thank you for posting that. Very interesting. I have played around with photography since the 60's. My father worked as a reporter / photographer for a newspaper so I got an introduction at an early age. I still tinker but the magic of the medium has left me. I think that started with digital cameras. I miss the old medium format, press cameras and film. It is all about the lighting whether in a studio or nature outdoors. cheers, Graham

Wishbones are OK but I have never been a big fan instead preferring the wishbone style. Why not kitbash, modify, or scratch up a pair of wishbones that you don't find so clunky that nicely match the ones in the rear? cheers, Graham

Indeed I do. Very nicely done. cheers, Graham

very very nice. cheers, Graham

Very true. The cheapest cables will have the worst braided covering whereas the higher quality ones will have a finer, tighter, and higher percentage of coverage over the inner insulation core; you get what you pay for. In any case, sometimes the eye just wants to see what it wants to see and something overscale is often more acceptably pleasing than nothing at all. cheers, Graham

I have been following and gathering bits and pieces for my Straight Six Community Build Rides Again. However, I did want to clarify something. I am use to the very well organized, popular, and administered group builds on britmodeler. Each group build get it's own sub directory of the forum in which those participating create their own topic for their build and there is also a separate topic for general group build chat and another for a gallery for the finished builds. Granted, this is a lot of work for the admins and participants but it does work well when there are larger numbers builds. On this forum, the group builds or rather community builds don't seem to very popular ( which is a same ), are much more laid back with smaller numbers of participants and it appears that everyone chats and posts their builds within the same topic in the community builds sub section of the forum. Is that how it is done here? I am fine with that if that how it's done but I want to know if that is how it's done here. cheers, Graham