Radretireddad

Thanks Mike!

The decal film does indeed cover the full sheet so I will try that first. I’ll post pics with the results. Sweet OBS build!

Awesome! Thank you!

Very cool! I love the front mounted spare.

I’m definitely going to try.

That would be great! Thank you!

I was rummaging around in my stash yesterday because I wanted something to fiddle with while I gave the paint on my three current projects some curing time. (Who else’s favorite time is this?) I pulled out this version of the MPC Chevy C10 that I bought new in the box five decades ago. It was complete except for the RH bedside I lost who knows when. I still hung on to it because I figured I’d do something with it in the future. When Model King reissued the old open road camper parts in a parts pack back in the 90’s, I snapped one up because I immediately knew I already had the perfect truck kit to mount it on as it was originally intended. Yesterday I started to think about the rarity of the LWB stepside bed and how unlikely a reissue will be. So I decided to spend yesterday afternoon fabricating a replacement bed side out of evergreen stock. Since I still had the RH fender and running board, I only needed to use the LH bedside as a template to cut a new one from sheet stock, some rectangular rod for the outer ribs, and strip for the top ledge. Happily I’ve now rescued the LWB stepside bed and will be building a truck for it in the future using one of the current Round2 reissues because I still plan on using this kit for the camper. For now I thought I’d mock it up and snap some shots of it as it appears on the original box replete with the old MPC dirt track tires and vintage Motor Wheels that came in the kit. I’d love to duplicate the box version but I’m doubtful a 50 year old decal sheet is going to hold up. What do you guys think? Thanks for looking. Edit: I’ve decided to build this kit as it appears on the box. I’ll use another Round2 reissue for the camper. Edit: I replaced two of the photos with updated ones. I corrected the front and rear wheel position in the wheel wells, lowered the front ride height, and fixed an interference issue that wasn’t allowing the bed to sit square on the chassis. I’m going to fill those unsightly gaps in the lower rear cab at the running boards and fabricate a nifty rolled pan and side extensions that’ll really clean up the rear end and eliminate the ugly production rear bumper. I’ll post progress pics periodically.

Ok, thanks for clearing that up.

Cool, thanks!

I think this version is where that series originated. A great example of seventies silliness at its finest. Far out man!

My pleasure!

Yep, I can definitely identify.

How long have you found it takes for a dehydrator to fully cure one of your paint jobs?

Yes, curing is what I’ve been referring to and what you describe is what I’ve experienced as well. I’ve found The use of Tamiya thinner helps speed up the curing process somewhat but it still takes forever to fully cure. A dehydrator is definitely on my wish list. Thanks for the clarification and advice.

Wow! That’s really interesting. What is your favorite Lotus model?

Got it! Thanks again!

Tip number 3. Many of the current round 2 offerings use an inner retainer cap that fits into the wheel back which requires the use of only the wheels and tires that came in the kit to capture the inner retainer with no excess slop between the inner and outer wheel. Since I’d like to use other wheels and tires that may not maintain the proper fit, I came up with this. I first file the head of the inner retainer cap down so it’s thinner than the cavity in the wheel back. I then rough cut 4 pieces of evergreen sheet stock into discs, clamp them in a stack and drill a small hole through the center of all four at once. I then screw the stack of all four into my Dremel arbor, spin ‘em up and file all four down to just fit inside the inner wheel back. Place the retaining cap into the wheel back and carefully glue each disc you’ve just made into the wheel back around the outer edge. Now the inner retaining cap is captured with no side to side slop and your free to use any wheel and tire you want. These are off of The AMT 1970 Monte Carlo. I hope you’ll find these useful.

Tip number 2. When narrowing a set of wheels or fabricating widening rings, I've found it difficult to get a precise cut using my drill as a lathe. It’s also difficult trying to find ways to securely chuck various types of wheels into my drill so I came up with this method instead. I place various thicknesses of evergreen square or rectangular rod under my razor saw and clamp them to the edge of my workbench. I then drag the wheel along the edge of the blade while rotating it. This gives me a precise cut that always ends where it started and cuts exactly the same width on all 4 wheels. You can cut chrome plated wheels if you cover the face with masking tape to protect the finish. You can also use strip stock under the saw for very narrow cuts. You can also cut various diameter’s and wall thicknesses of PVC tubing if you like. The only caveat is that it’s hard on the old fingertips.

Tip number One. If you’re like me and don’t like the wimpy little OEM tires many current muscle car kits come with, here’s how I fit a bigger set of meats on the existing kit wheel backs. Wrap the existing kit wheel backs in whatever width and thickness of evergreen strip stock necessary to make the fit. Test fit various widths and thicknesses of strip to find a good match. Cut a piece of strip to match the ID circumference of the tire you’re upgrading to and tuck it inside. Apply a few drops of your preferred cement to the outer edge of the wheel back, insert it and presto, instant wheel to tire adapter! These are for the Revell 1966 GTO. The one on the right has been wrapped. You can also layer the strips one inside the other if you can’t find any stock thickness that works.

Thanks, I’ll give these a try.

I’ve always thought the OD of those old tires is too small for general purpose use. The tread pattern seems too coarse as well. They look more like mud and snow tires.

No, they’re the standard generic Round 2 tread pattern but the pad printing looks great.

Thanks Bill. Let’s hope Round 2 reissues them soon.

It’s really crude compared to the 442 kit. The Malibu kits roots go back to the old ‘70’s era red alert ‘72 Malibu. The 442 kit is far more accurate, virtually drops in, and adds steerable front wheels. Thanks for looking.

I use Tamiya acrylic paints almost exclusively because of all the benefits they offer and because I’ve been pleased with the results I’ve been getting. The problem I’m having with airbrushing the gloss paints is that they never fully dry to a hard enough finish. Handling parts that have been drying for several days still leaves finger prints or masking tape marks that have to be polished and buffed out. I’ve been thinning it with Tamiya thinner. Id be interested in finding out if anyone else has found a solution to this. Thanks. Brian.