Radretireddad

Thanks!

What is the URL for your site?

These are what should have come in the kits. I really do appreciate all the time and effort that goes into the tooling, production and distribution of new kits and these look like excellent quality kits. I’m reluctant to critique such superb efforts by pointing out what seems like such a minor detail but in this case I think it’s an important one. What do you guys think?

How about a version of the Daytona with a transverse V-8 in the front and the back? Sort of a fantasy group B rally car or Pikes peak monster.?

Quite simply because I enjoy it so much. My father got me started on it when I was a kid in the sixties and I’ve never stopped since then. It’s relaxing, it keeps the old imagination on full boil, and it’s something I enjoy getting better and better at which is way more than I can say about my attempt to learn to play the guitar.

A Lancia Delta Integrale is a real white unicorn in Northern suburban Chicagoland.

We should always be prepared for a zombie apocalypse! It could hit at anytime!

1963 series 1 Jaguar E-type coupe.

This appeared on the shelf at my local Hobbytown earlier this summer still factory sealed. I didn’t have the money to buy it at the time so when I went back for it a few days later it was gone. It reappeared again about a week or so ago and this time I was able to snatch it up. I texted a picture of it to my twentysomething twin sons asking if they could spot the error and one of them got it right! I was happy to know they retained some of the knowledge from all the years of teaching them at all the car shows we attended.

Is it better at reducing the annoying orange peel finish BMF seems to have?

I use these polishing and buffing pads I got at Hobby Lobby. They start at 3200 and go to 12000. Meguiars PlastX works well for removing swirls.

I’ve been successfully using parafilm to mask Tamiya paints. It won’t react with the paint but you have to be careful not to stretch it too thin or you’ll never be able to remove it. To remove minor fingerprints I use these foam backed buffing pads I got for about $7.00 at Hobby Lobby. They start at 3200 grit and go all the way up to 12000.

I’ve had success in painting a piece of Bare Metal Foil with Tamiya acrylic paints and applying it as usual. The paint is flexible enough and seems to bond well to the foil.

The only thing I can find wrong is the propensity for molding all the wheels with insufficient negative offset. That’s fine for skinny stock tires or drag fronts but it’s annoying seeing a wide rear slick or tire on a wheel with the face almost flush with the outer tire sidewall. It’s an important detail that I think really affects the overall look of the finished kit.

Personally, I can’t stand this kit. It’s more of a cartoon caricature than an attempt at a reasonably accurate ‘55 gasser. I did buy one years ago when kits were still cheap only for the purpose of making resin copies of the one rear wheel that’s a fair resemblance to an American Racing 200. The other rear wheel doesn’t even match. Once that’s done I’ll definitely be offloading it. As if to further my frustration with this kit, the 5 slot wheels and tires in the newly reissued kit are exactly what I need for an old Monogram ‘55 panel truck I have, but I can’t bring myself to shell out $35.00 for another one of these abominations just to get the rolling stock.

I’m have the exact same kit and I’d really be interested in how you end up doing the rear suspension as the ride height with the stock parts is way too high.

Thanks Carl!

Thanks Mike!

The decal film does indeed cover the full sheet so I will try that first. I’ll post pics with the results. Sweet OBS build!

Awesome! Thank you!

Very cool! I love the front mounted spare.

I’m definitely going to try.

That would be great! Thank you!

I was rummaging around in my stash yesterday because I wanted something to fiddle with while I gave the paint on my three current projects some curing time. (Who else’s favorite time is this?) I pulled out this version of the MPC Chevy C10 that I bought new in the box five decades ago. It was complete except for the RH bedside I lost who knows when. I still hung on to it because I figured I’d do something with it in the future. When Model King reissued the old open road camper parts in a parts pack back in the 90’s, I snapped one up because I immediately knew I already had the perfect truck kit to mount it on as it was originally intended. Yesterday I started to think about the rarity of the LWB stepside bed and how unlikely a reissue will be. So I decided to spend yesterday afternoon fabricating a replacement bed side out of evergreen stock. Since I still had the RH fender and running board, I only needed to use the LH bedside as a template to cut a new one from sheet stock, some rectangular rod for the outer ribs, and strip for the top ledge. Happily I’ve now rescued the LWB stepside bed and will be building a truck for it in the future using one of the current Round2 reissues because I still plan on using this kit for the camper. For now I thought I’d mock it up and snap some shots of it as it appears on the original box replete with the old MPC dirt track tires and vintage Motor Wheels that came in the kit. I’d love to duplicate the box version but I’m doubtful a 50 year old decal sheet is going to hold up. What do you guys think? Thanks for looking. Edit: I’ve decided to build this kit as it appears on the box. I’ll use another Round2 reissue for the camper. Edit: I replaced two of the photos with updated ones. I corrected the front and rear wheel position in the wheel wells, lowered the front ride height, and fixed an interference issue that wasn’t allowing the bed to sit square on the chassis. I’m going to fill those unsightly gaps in the lower rear cab at the running boards and fabricate a nifty rolled pan and side extensions that’ll really clean up the rear end and eliminate the ugly production rear bumper. I’ll post progress pics periodically.

Ok, thanks for clearing that up.