Radretireddad

I’m very happy you all liked my idea.

I couldn’t have said it better. I’m happy to find out I’m not the only one thinking this when I see one.

Dang! I never knew that kit could be built stock. I assumed all the stock parts were deleted when they released the drag version which is why I never grabbed one. This one just moved up to the number one spot on my next kit to purchase list.

I always thought that the MPC kit had a more accurate front fascia than the Monogram kit.

Anyone interested in the police version or the even wackier twin engine drag version? Back in the day kids probably wouldn’t have thought twice about hacking one of these up to build the drag version but now it would be a crime to do that to a nice original kit.

The ‘77 had a great mechanics work bench setup. I plan on swapping this interior out with the current Turtle Wax version to make this my west coast special. I’d love to have that original version back along with the rest of the missing interior parts. I’ve got to figure out the best way to open the side and rear doors on this so all the interior work doesn’t go into hiding when I put the body over it. A couple of really good era correct decal sheets that capture the artwork of the age would also be great.

I often wonder how well an inexpensive basic rwd hatchback like this would sell in today’s market.

R32 Skyline GTR in south suburban Chicagoland.

That will be an amazing kit if Tamiya is really tooling it.

That’s very true!

The AMT ‘50 Chevy pickup has other big issues as well. Assembled out of the box the ride height is way too high and both front and rear axles are too wide. It’s really irritating when glaring flaws like these mar otherwise decent kits. If I’m faced with having to spend more time correcting the kits design flaws or replacing kit parts, it becomes less likely that I’ll give the kit any priority.

It’s an heirloom that’s being handed down to me by my father who bought it when I was only eight. I’ll be taking possession of it next week.

Thanks!

What is the URL for your site?

These are what should have come in the kits. I really do appreciate all the time and effort that goes into the tooling, production and distribution of new kits and these look like excellent quality kits. I’m reluctant to critique such superb efforts by pointing out what seems like such a minor detail but in this case I think it’s an important one. What do you guys think?

How about a version of the Daytona with a transverse V-8 in the front and the back? Sort of a fantasy group B rally car or Pikes peak monster.?

Quite simply because I enjoy it so much. My father got me started on it when I was a kid in the sixties and I’ve never stopped since then. It’s relaxing, it keeps the old imagination on full boil, and it’s something I enjoy getting better and better at which is way more than I can say about my attempt to learn to play the guitar.

A Lancia Delta Integrale is a real white unicorn in Northern suburban Chicagoland.

We should always be prepared for a zombie apocalypse! It could hit at anytime!

1963 series 1 Jaguar E-type coupe.

This appeared on the shelf at my local Hobbytown earlier this summer still factory sealed. I didn’t have the money to buy it at the time so when I went back for it a few days later it was gone. It reappeared again about a week or so ago and this time I was able to snatch it up. I texted a picture of it to my twentysomething twin sons asking if they could spot the error and one of them got it right! I was happy to know they retained some of the knowledge from all the years of teaching them at all the car shows we attended.

Is it better at reducing the annoying orange peel finish BMF seems to have?

I use these polishing and buffing pads I got at Hobby Lobby. They start at 3200 and go to 12000. Meguiars PlastX works well for removing swirls.

I’ve been successfully using parafilm to mask Tamiya paints. It won’t react with the paint but you have to be careful not to stretch it too thin or you’ll never be able to remove it. To remove minor fingerprints I use these foam backed buffing pads I got for about $7.00 at Hobby Lobby. They start at 3200 grit and go all the way up to 12000.

I’ve had success in painting a piece of Bare Metal Foil with Tamiya acrylic paints and applying it as usual. The paint is flexible enough and seems to bond well to the foil.