Mark W

As I said, wish I would have done this full detailed. What started out as curbside is now growing. We’ve all been down that road. I realized there is a lot of see-through in the wheel well area and through the mesh. Drilled out the holes in the brake intakes for some aluminum rivets to be added after paint. Here’s a pic of some inner panels and what will be a basic engine/transaxle. Any suggestions on what to add will be welcome.

Absolutely beautiful scratchbuilding and detail work. Would love to see a video of your soldering technique.

Everyone should have a Willys. Looks real clean!

The build so for is very impressive Matt. But your work on improving the body by thinning and re-scribing is really making the difference.

Very nice build Michelle!

Another step along the way. The intakes were flat on the side against the car, the body is curved. This meant creating a flat on the car for each of the three intakes. It was time consuming but not as difficult as I feared. Thinking on some hose for the brakes just to fill the void in the wheel well. Maybe some interior work next.

Always like this custom since it came out in the 60s. Nice job, btw I like the third headlight.

Build is spot on. Looks like it could double as the movie car. Your work just added another car to my “to do” list. Lucy, well she’s beautiful!

Dan, we actually think alike. You say .005” is 1/8” I say .010 is 1/4”. Same thing. I have settled in on .015” solder for plug wire. Common plug wire is 9mm that’s .355” that would be .014” in scale. You can paint it any color and it will bend and stay anywhere you put it. Acrylic paint works best because it takes time before it hardens completely, unlike enamels and lacquers. Not so sure you should have changed the firing order on that engine. Who knows what gremlin climbs into our models after the lights are out!

Wow! That’s a bummer on such a nice build.

Looks like good start, I like the subject and back story.

Yes, happy birthday! Very handsome artwork, I’ll look into reading the novels. Do you offer autographed copies?

Really enjoying this build. After looking at your solutions on making the many tiny parts, I say why didn’t I think of that? Anyway your talent for making the suspension parts is innovative and informative, thank you. Next, and stop me if I go down the rabbit hole too far. Earlier in the thread you commented on the plug wire you used as; “They're under .0197" in diameter, so less than 1/4" in-scale” So .001” = .025” .010 = .250” this is 1/4”. That makes your .0197” = 1/2”. Common plug wire is 9mm that’s .355” that would be .014” in scale btw, do you really measure down to 1/10,000” in your work? That’s mighty small!

Helmut, glad you noticed the re-start of this project! Feel free, (and anyone else) to comment on changes that might be made. Everyone has been very helpful so far. Sometimes I wish I made it full detail. All parts came from the Union Chaparral 2E. Which is correct because the 2C did evolve into the 2E. The intakes of course came from HRM.

Mighty impressive plumbing Dan! Where do you get your fittings?

I’ve not tried pantyhose, doesn’t the paint hide the mesh effect?

Glad you like it Jose. I say go for yours!

As far as the interior, I moved the das forward as Helmut suggested. Rivets will be added with my newly acquired Galaxy Tools “rivet marking tool”. Had to scratch build the new dash.

Hello all, the Chaparral is back on the bench! I took a break to work on the B-58 Hustler, which is actually still on-topic. Andy Green, a composite structures engineer who had been involved with the Convair B-58 Hustler met with Jim Hall. Ended up with Hall funding Green’s new company; in return, Green would build the new Chaparral 2A chassis. Back to the 2C, I didn't like the wrong location and blocky appearance of the rear brake and oil cooler inlets on the ARII kit. I also wasn’t looking forward to scratch-building them. What I found was the inlets in my HRM 2A are the same! Photos below show the removal of the old inlets. No comes the fitting of the new.

Cunningham Corvette from Historic Racing Miniatures! Neat resin trans kit, needs the Monogram 1958 Corvette doner. Looks really good, will be on the bench soon.

Lots of good advice here. Other than a smooth finish, one technique that makes the job easier is as Steven said, do it in sections!

All I can add to this is to be sure the area you are foiling is as smooth as you can get it. Any roughness in the surface will show up and ruin the chrome effect. 2-3000 grit and even polish the area. Just as you would the paint job. good luck

Peter, are you the one that built this model, I have always admired it.

I’m sorry to about your bad news Dave. I admire your perseverance and wish you the best in the future.

Well done! That had to be a heck of a ride!