Mark W

Best to stick your hand out the window: if it's wet, it’s raining if it’s white: it’s snowing if it’s hot… well, you get the picture

This looks perfect! Well done.

I have an update (and a small tutorial) on the cars. My order came for Top Studio fittings and braided line. I started the install and painting, quickly found that it’s better to paint them first while on the trees. These are resin fittings and were first coated with Vallejo silver. Next went the blue and red. I found it’s better to wet your brush often so it thins the paint a bit. The anodizing looks more convincing. Finally a gloss clear coat. Initially I was going to leave the previously installed vinyl lines alone, but the contrast between the two was too great. I will be replacing them. But you can’t drill a hole in vinyl, it closes up immediately. So plastic blocks and filters need to be made, you can see a couple I’ve done so far. Please ask any questions because even though they look different from the metal fittings, I believe this is a viable alternative. A lot less expensive and much less fiddling. This project will be put aside for a bit to rest my eyes and to make some progress on the Chaparral.

Bob, just this year I did buy a couple plastic boxes with dividers, like you I put a tag with each item as to where I bought it. Need to go further, but it’s a start.

Hey Bruce, the build turned out beautiful! Glad I could help.

Jim, we all try to keep that promise, it lasts for a while. However, as I get older, I’m getting rid of those older less detailed kits. Keeping the higher quality ones.

Every time I send for something I need, I keep searching till I add those needless items.

Nice clean build. Looks like something I’d see on the road back in my 20’s.

Pierre, your attention to detail is incredible! The “Salt Rat” effect you were after came out perfect! I like all kinds of building techniques, but the weathered/rusted look is right on top. My compliments!

The scribe line is perfect! Nice.

I like detailing, engines, interiors, the bottom of the chassis. But mostly being here. Seeing everyone's work and I’m really in my glory when someone compliments mine! lol

Number one, hands down: loosing that miniature part on the floor!!! You know exactly where it fell, then after 1/2 hour, you find it 6 feet away.

Not the actual car, but this was it, $125.00. With a 283, and stock hubcaps.

This is what I found Greg, hope it helps. If you need more conformation, I can dig out the kits and look for you.

ARII Chaparral 2C, IMC/Union interior, HRM wheels/tires. Checking the fit of all parts, now on to the body work!

The IMC/Union interior is a great improvement. Perhaps you can find a junker at a decent price. good luck

DW, read Pierre’s response below. It’s pretty spot on with the b/w photos I have. Looks like the black material on the driver’s seat was duct taped on.

Hey Dan, What you’re showing is a 2A. The 2C went to an aluminum monocoque, thus the lower half was painted white. But the pictures you sent will be a great reference when I do my 2A. many thanks

Ok, the 2C had an aluminum monocoque chassis, so this I will paint aluminum. My reference photos show the seat area as “dark” (black and white). I will follow your suggestions, brown with black padding, which in the photo looked pretty basic. Thanks!

Thank you, I printed a picture of your work to have as a model when I do mine.

Perseverance Pierre, those belts look beautiful! And the color of the interior is perfect. I think those belts would look fine on my Chaparral, what brand are they? The material also.

The three recommendations above are the best choice. I’ve used two part Bondo body putty, Bondo spot putty and Milliput. All with excellent results. I will add Mr Hobby Surfacer. It comes in three grades 500, 1000 and 1500. But I only use the 500 and 1000. They are great for pin holes and scratches. Just brush it on.

A bit of progress on the Chaparral. Anyone that has built this kit knows the interior is pretty basic, as it was designed around two AA batteries. The rear of the chassis is offset to accept a tint electric motor. This was supposed to be a quick build for me, that ended after the first modeling session. So now I’m firmly caught in the “I can do this better trap”. Ah well, at least I enjoy it. So here’s my efforts to insert the Union Chaparral 2E interior in the 2C. It needed to be widened a bit and reinforced to fit the AARI chassis. Paint will be aluminum, but does anyone know what color/material the seats were?

Great work so far Justin. I have the same build going myself, so I will watch closely.

That’s ingenious! I’ve used magnets to keep a stubborn hood down, but never up. Thanks for sharing.