OldNYJim

I too got Issue 218 in the mail this week - looks like another great issue! Plus, this set of Createx paints is $20-odd on Amazon right now which is a great deal…plus I did my bi-annual order of scalpel blades whilst I was ordering anyway

Good start! It looks really cool with the clear body, I think!

I read through this entire thread tonight and really enjoyed it - great masterful building of an interesting subject! Love the extra little details you’re adding!

I kinda feel the same - glad to have it back, but I'll be building mine (and the other TD re-releases) like the original kit. Would be cool to see them reissue these kits in the original colors - not sure if Revell would let them get away with using the original names and decals though (but the aftermarket has that covered, at least...) Still - no complaints - wasn't expecting to EVER see this one back, so if I gotta lay down some primer and strip some copper plate, so be it ?‍♂️

Rattler’s coming back soon (with a color, decal and name change…)

Looks great! Are the polishing pads/cloths you used Gravity Colors ones too?

That’s a smart way to do that - looks great so far! Wood looks good! ?

Thanks fellas! Got to put in some bench time this weekend on this one - a surprising amount of bench time considering how little progress I made ? First up, I wanted to run a much smaller tire out front - more like you would see on a little T-bucket. I’m trying to reduce how squashed the body looks with the high sides and the low roof somewhat, so I’m gonna try and trick the eye a little by decreasing that front tire height significantly: Already helped some, I think! I’m starting to like it already! I’m running the kit wheels right now so I can retain the option of using the nice chrome Moon disks, but they might not make it - we’ll see… Comparison between kit tire and mine: I was casually considering messing with the front spring mount on the frame, but I kinda like how it’s sitting now…I added a couple of little strips of styrene to the rear of the rails to make it easier to mockup and have the body sit itself in the same spot everytime… Next up, I wanted to print some piecrust slicks to see if I could get crisper detail than normal kit tires come with…I had a spoonful of resin left and took a shot that I’d have enough to print at least a coupla sets…JUST managed to get two fully printed before I ran out: (I’m trying a different brand next so I didn’t wanna just mix in from a new bottle…) Took a scale two inches out of the new ones, to lower the car an inch - I think these will work and look nice and sharp: Next job was laying out a new decklid with some louvres and printing a few at different thicknesses - they look cool from this angle… …but even cooler from behind: These parts are somewhat tricky to print and you need to do super-careful clean-up but the effect is cool I think! Scribed out the kit trunk lid and installed the new piece as soon as it was printed and cured…thin resin like this can warp and bend and distort so I wanted to get it locked down before it had too long to consider changing shape: Those little gaps seem to attract styrene dust, so I’ll need to keep cleaning them up until I get this thing to the primer stage I’m sure… And that’s about how it looks so far - quick end-of-weekend mock-up: Plenty to do, but I’m starting to like it! Thanks for looking!

I am SUPER excited about that one - great news!!!

There was a funny letter in one issue of SA complaining that the magazine had completely butchered a builder's name in one issue, and then butchered it a different way in a correction they printed in the next issue...they got it right by the third try though, luckily ?

I love that low-low ride height of your inspiration in the first post, the wheel choice is great and your bodywork is masterful! Enjoying watching this one come together!

Excellent info - thanks for sharing Steve! I wonder if the version in the spray can, being a little thicker than the average, might be useful as a base for Alclad? Something that self levels well and doesn’t show every tiny flaw and imperfection on a part would be a real asset for prepping parts for a nice smooth chrome finish

Fan looks a hundred times better - and the detail on those carbs is great!

Thank you! Thank you too Steve! I was actually a little out of my depth on this one - one of my more complex paint jobs for sure but a LONG way off what the guys who build lowriders, for example, do. Got a long way to go and a lot of learning to do - but at least it’s fun! ??

I picked up a few of these kits back when my local Hobby Lobby had them in stock regularly, and of the three or four hot-rod build options the chopped coupe was probably the one that interested me the least. It’s hard to chop a T coupe by so much and not have it look squashed, to me - I’d rather see a much more subtle chop. So, to overcome my dislike of this particular body style in what actually is a really cool kit, I’m gonna build one and see if I learn to like it. Here’s the current issue of the kit which most of you are probably familiar with… I’m actually more interested in building something that looks more like the ORIGINAL 60s box art - Moon disks, whitewalls and all… Quick mock-up on the bench to see how it sits: Right off the bat I’d like to drop that front end down a little and find some smaller front tires - these cars are so small that I think a big tire like that really dominates the look if you’re not careful. I’m not TOO dissatisfied with the rear ride height, but letting the body channel itself over the frame in my mock-up here has helped with that somewhat too. Will need to notch out some material in the trunk sides to allow clearance for the rear axle and leaf spring, which we’ll get to further down the line: Something I do want to address early with this kit is the engine; the kit part is pretending to be Lincoln Y-Block, and it’s not doing a very good job of it. I toyed with switching in one of the really nice AMT Parts Pack Small Block Chevies, but I’d rather go with a Ford something… After some parts box digging and various test fits (Offie T anyone?) I settled on the T-Bird engine from the evergreen AMT 34 Ford truck kit as being close in dimensions to the Y-Block, somewhat more accurate and about of the right period…and it ALMOST does drop right in there, aside from having to tweak the pins on the frame’s engine mounts. Thing is though, I wanted to use that cool Latham blower from the T kit too but it’s nowhere close to a drop-on fit. Problem is, the one-piece intake manifold/heads on both engines are different in size, and I’d want to keep the 390’s heads anyway. So, this evening’s half-project was separating the heads from the 390 so I could reuse them, and the (pretty accurate looking) manifold from the Y-block so I can make this work. 390 parts on the left, Y-block on the right, blower in the background: With that done, I attached the heads to the block so it builds up like a more conventional modern kit engine, and the manifold will sit between them just fine and dandy and allow a realistic setup AND a more realistic looking block (whilst hopefully keeping the same general look as that old box art I’m being inspired by…) Very early into the project, but it’s a start…next few days will be getting everything ‘roughed in’ and pointed the right direction…thanks for looking - more soon!

PERSONALLY, I would leave it a week. You probably could do it sooner, especially if you have a dehydrator, but a week is my standard safe-bet for all types of lacquer. Can you shoot over it the next day? Almost certainly, but I give it a few anyway. Also personally, I wouldn't bother sanding the black except to fix any flaws, dust or other lumps in the paint. Not that you asked, but here's a technique I like to use for paintjobs like that - not useful for this project if you've shot the black already, but maybe useful for future projects... Also bear in mind that the purple will almost certainly be darkened up a LOT by being applied to a black base. If you're looking for bright vibrant purple flames, you MIGHT not get that. I'd test on a spoon first and see how it looks and make sure it'll meet your expectations. The Tamiya airbrushable acrylics are pretty opaque, but you might struggle with a rattle can a little more to get good coverage...

I'll probably do a 'New York-aged' version at some point too My original train of thought was 'what would happen, in an alternate reality, if the 'SoCal-look' trend never happened out West, but on the East Coast instead. I reasoned less emphasis on performance modifications (less hot-rod / drag influence than in Cali, worse roads), less lowering (same reason) stock bumpers would remain (because - crowded city, people parking by braille), and a little more emphasis on paint and styling given the lack of modification elsewhere. Oh, and I'd want a moon-roof, because I like seeing the buildings and sights when I'm driving around the city There's a clear difference in look between early East and West Coast hot rods - I wanted to do a little thought exercise to see what the logical version of an East Coast VW might end up being.

Thank you! Thank you too Greg! And thank you too David! Yes sir, it's a thin self-adhesive vinyl. My wife picked this up at Michael's, but any Cricut / Silhouette vinyl would work just as well. I don't know if they sell a straight chrome, but I have seen that product available elsewhere: https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Chrome-Permanent-Adhesive-Silhouette/dp/B08HR79R9C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3T8HU3DXW10JU&keywords=CHROME+VINYL&qid=1677686068&sprefix=chrome+vinyl%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-3 Generally, the good quality vinyl (3M for example) is better quality and usually thicker, and the cheaper stuff tends to not be as thick, which is important for a scale look. This stuff that I used is way too thick to be in-scale too, but it's not SUPER noticeable at least... Most important thing with any chrome/reflective vinyl is to make sure the surface underneath is as smooth and glossy as you can possibly get it - nothing shows imperfections like chrome!

ICM makes a range of Ts in 1:24, with engines - they’re nicely done (think almost as if Tamiya did a Model T)

I picked up a tape-sealed ‘complete’ one of these at a show last year…and found out when I got home that it wasn’t complete in the slightest. I still wanna build it though, so picked up a second FACTORY sealed one this time: I laid out and had printed some 90s era NY taxi rate cards and door lettering - need to print a better placard for the roof and some little bits and then this will be ready to go into the queue

So, most of the rest of this build was just assembly - these Revell VW kits practically build themselves once you’ve got the main assemblies together…so this past weekend I got this one about finished up and on the shelf: And a pic with it’s sister build that I did last year: And my new favorite photo location - in the gloomy ol’ parking garage: Thanks for all the nice comments everyone - onto the next one!!

That’s a great start - nice work! Keep the progress pics coming!!

Confirmed!

Oh, I'm absolutely waiting to hear that he'll find a way to blame my wife somehow and have his insurance company play hardball...I made a specific point of getting contact details for both of the officers on the scene and written confirmation from them that they considered him to be 100% at fault, with no blame attributable to my wife. I had someone rear end me at a stop sign a few years back...I was waiting my turn, and a guy was texting and failed to see me, OR the stop sign, or the 4-lane highway he would've blown onto, blind, if he hadn't met the back of my little Yaris that I had at the time. Cops estimated he was probably going 50 or so, he didn't even attempt to brake...he told his insurance company after the event that I "rolled back into him" and hit HIM. I did a good job of it too - totaled both our cars and smashed his windshield from the inside when his iPhone flew out of his hand and hit it ? Being honest and honorable seems increasingly be a lost personality trait...