sidcharles

& for the link, too

i have not opened the package yet; tiny parts destined to lose themselves in the great abyss. this set is "I" Beam Front Axle w/ "A" type radius arms, brake backing plates, & 3-piece steering linkage. .. . [their description & wording ] Q: do we know if the brake/ backing plates are hydraulic or mechanical? i've swiped this image from Craig "Mr Metallic" Stanfield's Fotki page without permission; mea culpa. thanks sid

not definitive, but some passing thoughts on my experiences after reading the replies: the sets shown above are a single twist and can feed themselves into the material being drilled too quickly to clear the swarth. good news is that their tapered body will generally clear the chip & deburr the hole if you get it that far. since they come in such small sizes, breakage is a constant threat & frequent occurrence. i use them, but also understand why they are moderately priced and usually sold in "3 sets for $10" quantities. the Xacto drills & index is an excellent choice. again, with the smaller sizes, breakage is always in the shadow, so choke up putting the drill into the collet and don't exert radial stress when drilling. remember: one of the tenets of scale modeling is patience. become One with the drill . . . [ X-acto Drill Bit Set w/Stand (Cd) ] i have found any tool made by Tamiya to be a marked improvement to whatever i had been using prior. for 40 years i have used a 6" hardware store mill file to straighten edges on styrene or fair an outside curve. recently i had amazon points so squandered them on a $30+ Tamiya flat plastics file #74058 [ Amazon.com: Tamiya 74058 Craft Tools - Plastic Modeling File (Flat 16mm Width) : Arts, Crafts & Sewing ] difference using & results is exponentially better than previous smoothing tools. also, an investment of tiny reamers years ago has proven a good decision. if you don't have the exact size drill bit for the job at hand, a reamer can save running to the LHS on a rainy afternoon. even if you do have the drill, go 1 or 2 sizes smaller, and ream the hole to a snug fit. i got mine from Micro-Mark. not a big user of their products [ i have issues how they "obtain" some of their branded tools' designs] but here's the link: Micro-Size Precision Reamers (Set of 6) – Micro-Mark i think i paid 50% of current price, but it was 20+ years ago, so i guess everything is relevant. they are only used for styrene and if they have dulled, it's not something of which i am cognizant. YMMV an index can also be a valuable addition to kit if you use a variety of wire sizes for detailing: [ Amazon.com: BIG HORN Horn 19878 61-80 Drill Gauge : Tools & Home Improvement ] sid

buy a couple of 3 cornered scrapers and a set of files; you going to need them!

the squares made me dizzier.

the music behind the music: you will recognize many names.

DEPRON = not paper covered foamboard unless i am completely misunderstanding the sources i have researched. (like xerox & photo copy or kleenex & facial tissue or apples & peaches) when, if, i get a few pieces to experiment with, i think it's simply another arrow in the quiver. i believe it gets a hardening coat prior to prime & paint. gonna find out at some point. i've not wanted to join a RC airplane forum to ask, but it's a possibility if either here or Britmodeler fails me.

any chance i could buy a vowel? is it the stuff sold for packing dishes? or is it mush cosplay foam. i don't know what i don't know.

i'd like to try working with it, but don't want to buy mega size or quantity sheets. anyone have a source? thanks

thanks. it's behind a '34 ford and who knows what's under the stuff on the bench, but i'll hold you to it. thanks sid

i've only gotten to page 8, so maybe it's explained further along. Q: on the battery there are posts for cables, vent caps to check ,well, battery stuff, and two squares w/ two bumps each. what are they for? thanks

thanks. i'm tasked with building a ute out of a Heller Renault 4cv. i will most likely drill a hole at the ends of my cut slots to act as a stress relief from the bent roof tabs. they'll get filled with plastruct or stretched sprue, and a dab o' putty. i've got quite a bit figured out except how to join the rear part of the roof to the front without making it look like a pinched fedora. i also don't want to have 1/4" thick goober of putty to make the turn down to the rear window. i think i can carve the pieces i need from pink xps foam, harden it with super-glue, and use that as a buck for a vacuum form piece. we'll see.

how did you cut the glass (clear plastic) without shattering it? i've never had much luck even separating the windshield from the side & rear windows in the amt kits of yore. thanks

Bernard Kron | Traditional Rod and Kustom in scale

this slicing & cutting pattern is going to get me one step further along on a planned future project; thanks.

hmmm. (deleted for proper decorum) but it was funny yo me. . .

by no means current - but interesting none the less:

any chance of a link to the aftermarket supplier. [oops; nevermind i found it: Land Rover Parts — C1 Models ] i am thinking of getting that kit. if you have ever tried using aftermarket photo etch, you already know what a headache it can be. Eduard is the only supplier i know that has online instructions. not for the timid - for sure. in your case with the LR, i think both youtube & a military model forum might be helpful. Britmodeler is pretty good for a variety of subjects. think "gateway" to the wild world of everything. Showing results for '"Revell Land Rover Series III"'. - Britmodeller.com Showing results for 'Revell Land Rover Series III'. - Britmodeller.com Land Rover Series III - Revell - Ready For Inspection - Vehicles - Britmodeller.com maybe Martin can help:

i've had good luck with the same stuff i use to strip chrome: Cut through grease and dirt with Purple Power. the former gets diluted 50% w/ tap water; latter used straight. saves me for buying yet another product to store under the sink. but full disclosure is i do not use a lot of resin products mostly small parts. i don't like the high sensitizer the sanding dust is. but for cleaning, almost any powder cleanser & a toothbrush can work if you've the time. isopropyl alcohol will degrease (get the 91% stuff; it evaporates quicker) on a sunday afternoon if you don't feel like running out to buy something else.

i'm the needle eye cut into a pickle-fork school. i use strips of waxed paper for glue, and the majority of times for detail painting where a drop or two is enough. and of course for mixing 2 part epoxy.

fantastic. thanks for the direction. "Jiggler" Cylinder Head kit for Flatheads — VCG Resins by Reese i couldn't find them on the Iceman website but i'll check again when i have a bit more time & focus. in the meantime, we've got an added bonus: Ford Flathead Italmeccanica Supercharged 1/25 – IcemanCollections

i'm trying to find out if there's Smith & Jiggler heads for a full size flathead available. only ones i have found are for the Revell midget V8 60 engine(s). also, Iron Trap Garage YT channel has some information on the Oberhausen.

there's a bunch of good stuff on that site. the link may have come from this forum i cannot remember. tons of real 1:1 information on HAMB & The Flat Spot. i did not know it was "real" until digging around the internet.

thanks. that was the site where one of the files is located ( 🔫 1/25 Oberhausen W-2000 "Ray Gun" Supercharger・ STL File for 3D printing・Cults ) evidently in my excitement i didn't look into it deep enough to find a printer. mea culpa