sidcharles

that's some Norman Rockwell posing, it is.

quite tasteful. Q: whodonnawin'shiel?

quarter milers aren't my thing. 'roundy round; yes.

great idea. which ones do You suggest?

that's pretty sleek. all shwoopy 'n' chit. i certainly want to use the body for something. i'd like the grille (and fenders) for the Fiat, but have no idea if it will work. i could use the remainder of the body (meaning roof, trunk, & greenhouse) for any number of concoctions. i have 2 or 3 AMT '29 Ford body & fenders which come to mind, but it's not even simmering at this point. winter project perhaps. if i can locale a NIB Monogram or Revell '36 Ford (AHEM!!!) i would build the first one really close to factory stock. the tail lights are so much a favorite i would even consider lighting them w/ LEDs & a coin cell battery. btw: anyone remember the AMT '64 Ford Galaxy with the light bar for the headlights and battery box? ahhh the good old days & ways . . .

ditto. since Revell's parts pack came out in 1845, or thereabouts it seems, i have wanted to build a street version. a while back i attempted to justify S&H on a small order of paints (let those among us who have never, cast the first sprue!) so i grabbed a Tamiya 1935 Toyoda (sic). it really is a beautiful kit with expected quality and more than a nod to the Chrysler Airflow of the era. but going back & forth on what to do i decided to try the fenders of the Toyoda on the Fiat body in the Yellow Fever kit. we'll see how it goes.

i just ordered one from Amazon (25$ - free with my accumulated points) in making my decision what to get, one of the blurbs i read x Atlantis indicated just that.

while you're credit card is out . . . . this is a bit extreme, but it doesn't hurt to see how other folks do things.

anyone suggest a source to determine the chronology of stock car evolution? i think part of what is confusing me is class distinction. specific example would be a street ready appearing car with an X taped over the headlights compared to the same car with fender cut outs & pony wheel left front to another with roll bars, nerf bars, and side bars. i've seen the same model 1:1 in all three liveries, so there's definitely something i'm missing. nothing on HAMB or Ford Barn jumped out at me. years & years ago there was a stock car forum but it petered out . . . thanks s.e.

so after tracing the trim on to the plastic "glass", you would shave/ file the exterior surface [presentation side] around the perimeter thinner to get it to extend outward? from what i see, it's the older, especially AMT, kits which have the deepest & most obvious setback. thanks s.e.

the foible of clicking the "unread content" option is that there are things never before heard. i still gotta study up what Pro-Touring is, but in the interim .... how do you get your windshield glass to sit so tight to its frame? are certain kits manufactured like this and i just have not come across them? or do you cut a rabbet in the interior side of the windshield glass area to allow the glass to nestle into it? thanks sid

Ron Coon Resins | Home - Circle Track Resins & Supplies

i think if you leave the bought model as is, when you start your own building, a lot of questions will answer themselves. you can start with a hobby knife, sprue cutter, and flat file. buy $5.00 ones or $50.00 ones; whatever you decide. you will know when you have outgrown the tool. there's a gazillion good YouTube modelers. watch a few and see where your interest is piqued. focus on the basic stuff for the first couple. Showtime Studios/ Hunter Selby did an excruciatingly long series about 8 years ago building a single model in 60+ episodes. pick your pain threshold. if you don't like to do something one way, do it another. it really is supposed to be fun. use a photographs to show you how the model looks. we are regularly tricked into not seeing mold lines and other imperfections because in the building process we stare at them so long they cease to look out of place. try the first couple following the manufacturer's instruction sheet & no paint. just keep progress moving. like playing the clarinet; if you don't practice, you'll never be another Sam Butera. like any endeavor in life, there's no shortage of free advice and the guys who'll tell you "i would have done it ....." all you can do is smile. keep your first model no matter how they turn out. #1. they can be used as paint mules when you start to add color to your masterpieces. #2. after a few models built, you will be able to track your progress.

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i think this must be a "first" even for the hardcore truckster builders.

very cool. new dealers' promos? i see them as collectibles for the future.

https://youtu.be/Ro_znE_Wlgc?si=SvlwT8Ll-4u28JM-

you might have more responses if you showed a picture of what you need. i don't know, or am willing, to do two research projects, but perhaps this company might have it: Dragline Detail Parts - The Model Car Garage

https://youtu.be/Wn7Q4qnU6xk?si=qhiQPK0WIDKoiJ-u

anyone discard molded styrene seat and a. make cushions out of miliput or similar 2 part putty? or b. carve from pink xps or similar foam? seems like either would eliminate adding unnecessary thickness and/ or joints details at the edges.

the RC airplane guys have been using it for eons: Special adhesives for foam & plastic – deluxematerials.com i have used Deluxe Foam Sealer for model railroad terrain made from pink xps foam. worked fine, but i don't think for model railroad of cars [non-impact models] it's any more beneficial than Liquitex mediums. this is a whole line of stuff to stoke the imagination: Golden makes a similar line: https://youtu.be/tlHrrtMhwCI?si=Ag_Ue4LAI1bjPM2b

for the first 10 years or so that i saw weathering effects on model cars i thought "they must have been applied to cover up mistakes." as i began to be more interested in a real appearing vehicle [vs. 'show car'] i started to look at military modelers' work. that's when i began to understand how effects of weather & use should be used in a rationalized manner. as an aside in the "same thing but different" category, i remember at the tender age of seven my older cousin explaining to me "you don't need to use every decal on the sheet." i was devastated . . . and to this day . . . . . .

one of the benders* i purchased came with a couple of 1/8" thick smoked acrylic pieces about 4" square. although not hopeful they will improve my life, i must find them and try some day. *i know "real" modelers use a single edge razor blade & steel rule. sometimes you have to support the cottage industry, too. https://youtu.be/-ZU_vNRJyyM?si=-u_vM8mN39KSgiWx

crosley basketweave https://youtu.be/QCTNbcSQZUY?si=mIBkbldSQBiXzc-3

mini-wicker @ 1:03