Terry Sumner

I would like to see some properly made wrinkle wall drag slick that shows the car at rest like the ones in these photos I attached....with small wrinkles extending from the center outwards closer to the bottom area of the tire. It bugs me when modelers put those wrinkled slicks on their models that show the car under hard launch. Those heavily wrinkled slicks with one way wrinkles are just so wrong for a car model sitting at rest with no driver inside..... Of course that's just my opinion as I like some accuracy in my models...others opinion's will vary.. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

1969???!!! Oh man...... Sorry "kid" but I do not have any pics any more of my old rides. Somehow got lost in my divorce back in 1978! LOL

But it sure rode hard didn't it!

WOH! First time I checked out this build... Nice...VERY nice!!!

I remember it well too John. I was in my senior year of high school in 69/70. I had a 66 Chevelle SS 396 that I had jacked up maybe 3 - 4" by using Gabriel Hi-Jacker shocks in the rear and El Camino springs in the front. Not really high as many other cars were but it still made a heckuva difference in the handling!

So was the Gordy Foust/Ausley's 66 Chevelle!

No kidding? Gee and I always thought all the parts on a diecast were metal! Learn something new every day! LOL And I agree with you Harry....

I don't have any diecast models so I have this observation or maybe it's a question...Isn't all the chrome on a diecast actual "CHROME plating?" I mean the parts are metal so aren't they actually chrome plated and not vacuum plated like plastic parts are?

I think it's all driven by cost of tooling. Being a former tool & die maker I have some knowledge of the process. When the higher end airplane maufacturers tool up for say...a bulbous shaped one piece canopy like on an F-15, they have to use a 3 part sliding cavity mold. Because as Art said, some parts just cannot come out of a mold with any undercuts. But Tamiya and Hasegawa and others solve that problem by using a sliding cavity mold. The caveat here though again..is the cost. If car modelers were willing to pay for the quality that the airplane modelers now get they could very well do so. Same goes with those nasty attachment points of the sprue. In the case of clear canopies, there just cannot be any attachment points that would interfere with the smoothness of the "glass". So they have to take the extra care....and cost...of engineering the sprue paths so they don't attach at a bad spot. It all comes down to what you're willing to pay for....

Roger that!

That's the spirit! Keep on building...

Niko...that photo you mentioned is good. But I have a whole bunch of them in my Fotki site here.... http://public.fotki.com/tsumner/11-real-cars/mooneyes-photos/ Enjoy!

Now THAT...is about as cool as it can possibly get! Jealousy abounds here.....

Ya beat me to it Mike...I was going to suggest the same thing!

Now see...whenever I hear, "The old man" around this time of year I automatically think of Darren McGavin...from "A Christmas Story". I though the title of the thread was going to be something like....Some superglue to fix the broken leg of his Major Award!

Good morning fellow styrenists...Merry Christmas.

Yeah but George...you're talking about a 1/24th scale airplane kit! That is HUGE!!!! That would be like the 1/8th scale car kits.... I was talking about the "normal" scales.

Probably happened to most of us. My sleeve hooked onto a finished B-25 one time and it went to the floor and smashed in a bunch of unsalvegable pieces!

Niko...I don't know if this will work or not but you can give it a shot. The problem lies in the non-glossy surface that the decal was applied to... i.e. your sanded sidewalls. What I would do to attempt a fix would be to apply a little Future to the decal and try to puncture the heck out of it with the point of a new Xacto blade. What you are trying to do here is to create little holes for the Future to seep under the decal and fill in all the millions of micropscopic hills and valleys the sanding has created under the decal. If it's working you should actually see the silvering disappear as the Future is doing it's job. If that does not work...and you really want to do it right....then I would say the only way would be to remove the decals, dip the sidewalls as I explained above and reapply decals over the Future-coated sidewalls. Then spray with the Testor's Dullcote... Heck, it's worth a shot right?

Beautiful job Tony! But it's not a gasser...it's an altered. Remember, gassers had to have complete cooling systems. Your lack of a radiator bumps the car up into the Altered classes. But classification aside, that is a really nice model you've done there!

Oh yes...forgot about the Attempt! It has a better front axle too...

I think you have a talent for the understatement. "Heavily modified"?? Yeah...that's an understatement! Nice job my friend...nice job!!!

I don't know of any "current" kit with a Dragmaster frame. The old Sanitary T and Mooneyes Double Dragster kit had one in the Mooneyes kit. And the old Revell Parts Pack's had a Dragmaster chassis. You can sometimes find them on evilbay... I believe these are the only two sources for the dragmaster chassis. See here.... http://www.straightlinemodeler.org/skip.html

Best bet is to find a beat up builtup on evilbay and re-do it yourself right now... Sure would be cool if this one was reissued!

Here's some Walken in a Winter Wonderland for ya! Hosted on Fotki