Terry Sumner

Nice progress there Niko...doing good! May I give you a small tip. On your rear slicks, look at the "Hoosier" decals...see how they are "silvered"? By that I mean that translucent stuff you can see in between the letters? This is caused by air being trapped in between the decal and the tire. And this happened because you applied the decal onto the sanded surface. Decals MUST be applied onto a glossy surface or you will get this "silvering." You can eliminate the silvering a number of ways but the way I like best is to dip the sidewall in a shallow tray of Future Acrylic Floor Finish. Let it dry overnight and then apply your decals and use a setting solution like Microscale Super Sol. This will make the decal snuggle right down nice and tight with no silvering. On the off chance you do get some silvering you can get rid of it by applying a little more Sol and poke the silvered spot with the point of a sharp new Xacto blade. This will let the solvent get inside and work on the decal more. Then after all this is dried you can just spray a coat of Testor's Dullcote on the sidewalls and your flat surface will be fine! Here is an example of some tires done this way. This was done probably 10 years ago and I know the photo isn't the best but it does show the nice flat finish n the tires... Hope this helps! Hosted on Fotki

Tony Nancy's 22Jr is not a Dragmaster frame nor even close. The 22Jr is a Fuller chassis by Kent Fuller. If you'd like to learn a little about dragster chassis'...click on the link below for some great info prepared by Roger "Riceman" Lee. Riceman is one of the most knowledgable guys you will ever meet or know when it comes to front engined dragsters! He put together quite a little synopsis for us on the Straight Line Modelers List. The chassis we are talking about is the first one at the top of the page. Hope this helps you! http://www.straightlinemodeler.org/rice.html

Mine isn't finished yet but it's come a long ways from what I started with. I had to let it slide for a while due to other projects I had to get finished plus remodeling my 1:1 home. But I'll get back on it soon... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=41675&hl= mooneyes pickup&st=0

The ones I posted were from Youtube. In those you just copy and paste the URL riht into a post here. If it's on your own computer I don't know actually...

Where in New Mexico?

Welcome aboard to both of you!

Darin is right. Airplane modelers are no richer than car modelers...and many of us like to build both. I build cars and airplanes and have been doing so for decades. Those guys or gals who actually do build both know exactly what I'm attempting to raise awareness of. If you only build cars then of course you unfortunately don't have a frame of reference to go by. Airplane kits don't cost $100 though.. Sure there are a few that are up in that stratosphere, but those are few and far between...mainly the newer 1/32 scale kits. But 1/32 scale in aircraft modeling is a small percentage of the community. Mostly it's 1/48 and 1/72 scale. The majority of aircraft kits in 1/72 scale are down in the $6 to $15 range. But if you want the high quality Hasegawa or Tamiya, you're gonna have to pay more...like up to maybe $50 for a real high end kit. Same with 1/48 scale. You can get the majority of the kits in the $15 to $25 range. But if you want the high end Hasegawa or Tamiya kits, then you gotta pay $40 to $75 or so. There are all kinds of aftermarket detail sets for these models of course...but when you purchase one of the Hasy or Tammy kits you pretty much don't need any of that stuff as the kits are so good to begin with.

THAT my friend is nothing more than a personal opinion/preference...

Hey hey hey now.... It's no problem buddy...I have a 10,000 lb lift in my garage! Bwahahahaaaaaa... Hosted on Fotki

Even a high priced airplane kit is cheaper than 18 holes with ensuing libations and food. And then what have ya got? Just a memory and indigestion...

Ugh...I have a 1:1 of that very car in 1970 vintage in my garage that my son and I are restoring for a friend...Lot's of fun!....NOT! LOL Wish it was as easy to restore the real thing as it is to build a model of it!

Hey Chris! Good to see you too. Glad to see you've joined the best car modeling forum on the net! Welcome....

Ken...as I said in the OP, I'm talking about the kits of today...meaning new tool car kits and new tool airpane kits. And all aircraft modelers are definitely not rivet counters. I know a heckuva lot that aren't...more than are for sure. But I disagree with you that the airplane models are not engineered better because of the so called rivet counters. It is precisely why they are engineered better. The model companies will only make what sells. When an airplane model comes out and it is flawed greatly, it won't sell because the airplane modelers won't settle for mediocrity anymore and they don't buy that kit. We as car modelers though tend to accept it and buy them anyways even when they're flawed a lot. And I'm not talking about the little things when I refer to flaws. It's like Andy said.... "car modelers are more prone to take it and make it right." Why should we have to "make it right" when they have the ability to make it right in the first place? Of course this would end up costing more for better kits so maybe that is why Revell doesn't make them like airplane models.

This is kind of a companion thread to the Lazy Revell thread. This will probably cause a furor but I gotta say it. NONE of todays 1/25th scale car kits are ANYWHERE near the detail and quality of today's airplane kits. And they are twice the scale when comparing to 1/48th scale. When it comes to 1/32 scale airplane kits the difference is even more apparent! Details are very soft in car models compared to the crispness of airplane details. Just look at panel lines.... Aircraft panel lines are very petite and very sharp. If you scaled up a car model door panel line or trunk line the space would scale up to probably over an inch+ wide!!! Removeable panels in an airplane model fit the opening precisely. A car model's hood rarely fits very well. The tires in a car model continue to be molded in inaccurate vinyl whereas aircraft model tires are injection molded with excellent detail. Airplane modelers have perfected the techniques of painting plastic or resin tires to look much more realistic than our vinyl pieces of junk. Ejection seats too...the detail airplane modelers want is very sharp and precise. Car model seats not so much. I know the cost is less in car model kits but I think we as car modelers are just less demanding. There have been a few car kits that had corrections made after some complaints but nothing like the airplane models.

Got 'em both on my F-250 though!

I'm hoping my 2003 F-250 will last me the rest of my life! No way I can afford a brand new F-250 now...

If you wanna see some cool old true gassers actually running for some inspiration...look at these youtube videos! A few of the cars are from my old track where I worked...Connecticut Dragway! And BTW...the above car, The High and Mighty, is shown running at 4:14 in the video timeline! And the second...another excellent video!

Cool car indeed, but not a Gasser....it's an Altered. Not being picky...it's just that this thread is supposed to be about Gasser Inspiration and I just wanted to make sure someone who might build this car doesn't make the mistake of calling it a Gasser... )

Just for those fellas who may not be all that into gassers, just want to clarify 2 of the cars in Len's post above... The Rollin Stoned Camaro and the Revell Jungle Jim car are not Gassers! And the gorgeous blond? Well I sincerely HOPE she's not a "Gasser!" LOL

This is what happens when you bury a kit....

Geez...."VERY Angry"? and in a "rage"??? Over a plastic model kit? Methinks you need to take a step back and re-evaluate your choice of hobby my friend. No need to work yourself into a heart attack over some styrene plastic!

Is this the original car or a reproduction?

Wonder why the red fire out of the tailpipe is in the passenger side on the first 2 pics, then in the driver's side on the 3rd pic?

As compared to the Rockies...they are just little hills! LOL

Spent some time scratchbuilding a simulated aluminum front timing cover for the big block. The first photo was my feeble first attempt. Not good but I learned a lot. Second photo is the one! Some .040 sheet stock for the base, then some .010 stock cut into thin ribbons about .015 high and glued with Modelmaster liquid cement and some really thin tweezers! The round parts are discs punched out with a Waldron punch and die set... Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Here's the real one I tried to emulate.... Hosted on Fotki And this is the Waldron Punch and Die set.....front cover on the box.... Hosted on Fotki And the actual set itself.... Hosted on Fotki