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roadhawg

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Everything posted by roadhawg

  1. Looks very nice, but I, too, would like to see more pics! Yes, there certainly are! Working on a few short track cars myself.
  2. Thanks again, guys! Your comments are too kind!
  3. I could use a few of those myself....I need one right now to build a car driven by the late Buck Simmons. I heard Fred was still casting stuff for a few of his close friends. Good luck, let me know if you find a source.
  4. Thanks guys! Correct, but Nascar didn't aquire the All-Pro series until 1992. Before that, it ran as an independent organization with Alabama's Bob Harmon running the show, sort of the south's answer to the ASA series. "Uncle Bob" was one of the best promoters in history. Great cars, great drivers, great racing. Nascar slowly ruined it after taking it over. Scott, that is the Revell Senneker ASA kit. The Senneker and the Waltrip kits have wide five wheels and hubs (although I use my own) and a V-8, while the Butch Miller kit has the Nascar style wheels and a V-6. The Butch Miller kit also has a different Z-28 style hood. Davey's #23 would make a cool model. Davey also drove Neil Bonnett's #12 house car a time or two.
  5. Thanks, guys! Mark, the decals I design in Corel draw and have a friend print them on an Alps printer. I've had to make some of those contingency decals too, since I couldn't find any....like Larry Shaw Race Cars. Darrell Brown's #58 car was white, so I might be able to print those on a inkjet....we'll see.
  6. One of my favorite racing series was Bob Harmon's All-Pro super series that ran from 1979-1991 on asphalt short tracks in the South....actually, Nascar took it over in '92 and ran it as the Slim Jim All Pro Series, but it lost that Saturday Night short track feel and wasn't as much fun....too "corporate", I guess. One of the most popular drivers in the original series was veteran racer Freddy Fryar. Fryar drove several cars in the series, but this one, from the 84-85 seasons, was my favorite. Built from the Revell ASA Camaro, I tried to rework the headlight area and the grill to make it resemble a Firebird. Being primarily a "shelf model", I didn't add any wiring or plumbing, but focused more on getting the right look. Paint is a 50/50 mix of Testors Chevy Orange and Italian Red. Seat belts and window net are from Detail Master. I've got a few more cars planned from this series, including Mickey Gibbs' black Camaro, 1984 series champ Darrell Brown, and the infamous "carbon fiber" Gary Balough car. Havin' fun with these! Thanks for looking. (By the way...I wasn't really sure where to put this....it's not exactly Nascar, but it WAS associated with Nascar and a lot of the Nascar drivers ran here, so if this is in the wrong place, somebody move it. Thanks.)
  7. I guess the PC movie people are ok with that whole bootleggin'theme, as long as the car don't have a flag on it....
  8. For what it's worth, Wingnut Wings is owned by movie producer/director Peter Jackson (Lord Of The Rings), who is a huge WWI aircraft fan. There were no models of that era that met his standards, so he just started his own company. I've seen a few of these kits up close and they are flawless.
  9. I think it turned out very nice. The last time I had decals crack like that, I just weathered it like it had just finished a hard race, and nobody ever noticed, lol. Do you need some tire decals? I have a few I can send you if you like.
  10. Looks great, I had forgot about that ride! When you said Mark "The Kid", I thought it might be when he was REALLY a kid, lol......
  11. Check with Detail Master. They have photoetch "Radiator Face Panels" made for that. 5 or 6 bucks.
  12. Looks great!!! This is a REAL race car! I hope to see those other cars you plan to build. BTW...see my avatar picture? That was taken in 1976 at my home racetrack, Athens (Ga.) Speedway during filming of the movie "Greased Lightning", the life story of Wendell Scott...who was played by Richard Pryor.
  13. Here's an example.....the first picture shows the artwork sized and printed on white decal paper.... then you just cut out the image and apply..... In all honesty, this particular project didn't work out too well, and I ended up having to get them printed on an Alps, but you get the idea....
  14. A little trick that some have used is the print on white decal paper, but put a border around your artwork in the same color as the surface you're applying it to....if that makes sense. Works so-so for some stuff. Short of printing on an Alps, thats you're best bet. Good luck.
  15. Looks good so far, and almost makes ME want to build a Nascar racer, lol. Back in the 80s, Anderson SC Speedway had just went from dirt to pavement, and we were running dirt late models on asphalt tires on Friday nights. Every week we parked next to Ernie...he was running #5, if I remember correctly. It was just him and another older guy, I believe it might've been his dad...not much of a crew, but he ran good. He never had much to say, never knew if he was just quiet or anti-social, lol. Minor suggestion....if you want to get rid of half the shocks on the rear, you'll be ok. They haven't ran dual shocks since the 70s.
  16. Inkjet ink is translucent, so decals printed on clear decal paper will virtually disappear on anything but a white (or VERY light) surface.
  17. Beautiful build, Nick! Love the red!
  18. If T-tops make a difference, the AMT/MPC kits have the Hurst tops (which would be right for a Bandit T/A), the Revell kit has the Fisher tops. If it doesn't matter, definitely the Revell kit.
  19. Not really. Here, I've done the hard part for you (if you can call 3 minutes hard, lol.)....all you have to do is size and print them.
  20. Personally, I don't see why a well made decal wouldn't work just fine, especially on a darker colored car. It would give the appearance of vents without all that tedious work, and you couldn't tell the difference without actually touching it. Since it would be black, you could consider printing them yourself.
  21. You mean something like this? Drew, this isn't as far fetched as you might think. Several organizations have sprung up for racing not only restored vintage race cars, but vintage type bodies using modern parts. I was told that Studie up there currently runs in a regular street stock division somewhere in Indiana. They use modern parts, but have no rules on the vintage of bodies, other than they must look stock. There was also this Hudson that ran in Illinois a couple years ago...Hudson body, jig chassis, small block Chevy engine, modern running gear.... So don't say your Challenger will be impractical.....it could very well run with these guys! Is that contraption going to be dirt or asphalt? Looks awesome so far!
  22. As far as a regular supplier, no. How many do you need? I probably have some of my own I can spare.
  23. Very nice!! I love REAL race cars.....back when they had character!
  24. This stuff: http://papilio.com/spray%20clear%20flexible%20decal%20fixative.html Unlike other clear coats (which you CAN use, if you want to), this stuff is made specifically for decals, will remain flexible when dry, and will not crack. I've also used Model Master clear lacquer. Inkjet ink is water soluble, so if you don't clear it with something, you'll have a mess on your hands.
  25. I think Accel, the company that made the wires you're probably thinking about, started around 1970.
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