Bainford

Hopefully this 're-labelling' will result in Tamiya primers and sprays returning to Canadian hobby shelves.

Cheers Noel. I have worked in and around machine shops all my life, though my actual operating experience is limited to very basic turning or mill work (my trade is Mechanical Fitter, currently employed as a Mechanical Technologist with the Canadian branch of a UK engineering firm). Thanks much for the recommendation on the book. I will look into that, for sure.

Is this kit identical to the '67 version, save for the grill?

I've noticed the roof issues, too. I have had a weird project rattling around in my head for a dozen years or so, which would require me to chop a '39 coupe. The bulbous roof has prevented this project from hitting the bench. The roof looks like a difficult chop (for me, anyway), but beyond that, it would need further correction to remove the 'roundness' across the top and reduce the 'hump' at the rear end of the roof. The problem is, I don't see a way to make the corrections without complete reconstruction of the roof, and not being a 'body man', that may be beyond my capabilities. If a cheap '39 coupe lands in my lap, I have a go.

Lovely work, Scott. Great attention to detail. Everything is looking 'right'.

Interesting about the Peatol brand. Unfortunately the Taig website, which looks good and is well stocked with accessories, is difficult to discern the differences between the various lathe kits. There are many different 'kit' options, and is a bit weak on descriptions, making decisions difficult, but they do sell complete kits that include chucks and a motor. When I started writing this reply, I was going to tell you to refer to the website of the Canadian distributor, Lee Valley Tools, but I see they no longer deal in Taigs. This is a shame, as their website laid out the various options and accessories in a non-ambiguous way. I plan on buying a lathe myself in the next couple years, as soon as I sell enough of my stash to fund the purchase, and spent the last hour on the Taig site, but I came away with more questions than answers.

That's one sweet short tracker. Very nice detailing and weathering. You nailed it.

Mods, please delete.

Nothing. Give me a stock '73 Sportsroof with a flat hood and hubcaps/trim rings, omit the licensing hoopla, and I'm happy. Though, if they include a stock Cleveland with accurate 'Power By Ford' valve covers, I'll be ecstatic.

Welcome to the forum, Don. Don't be afraid to ask those questions. Aside from showing-off, that's what we are here for. Cheers.

Cool old hot rod pick-up, Michael. Good looking colours. Where did you get the Cragars for this one?

Very cool old Ford pick-em-up. Love the colours, and really digging the Cammer. Awesome stuff, Chuck.

That is one sweet Bronco, James. Nice work all around.

Well, that explains a lot. The '69 Rebel has been at the top of my 'want-list' for quite a few years now, and I have yet to find one. I am certain that when I do, I won't want to part with the money being asked for it. Just as well perhaps, because if I get one, I am building it.

Yes, one can obtain great paint from a rattle can. Keep in mind though, that the path to achieving great paint is a journey. Even the best builders can be tested by a paint job. It is a career-long pursuit. To start, use quality products intended for model building, Tamiya and Mr Hobby paints are highly recommended, as are others. They are not the cheapest, by far, but they will be the most hassle-free, and will eliminate many of the variables that non-hobby paints will throw at you. Once some experience has been gained, you can experiment with other brands, such as Duplicolor, etc. Great paint jobs begin at the preparation stage; eliminating mold lines and block sanding across panel gaps, filling sink-marks, and other body corrections, but I wouldn't get too wrapped around the axel on this stuff if you are at beginner level. I would focus on getting rid of the mold lines, scuffing and washing the body, and using a compatible primer under your paint. And remember, if you screw it up, there are several effective methods of stripping paint from a car body. If you want to get deeper into prep, there is a lot of info on this forum, or just ask the group. Truley great paint will require advanced techniques such as cutting (colour sanding) & polishing, as well as years of trial & error. It all depends on how far you want to go with it, the level of greatness you strive for. Don't get discouraged, and ask questions if problems are incurred. If you are at all serious about the hobby, consider a good quality (not necessarily expensive) airbrush. Then, the trials & tribulations really start.😉

Have a look at Taig lathes, too. Often cheaper than the Sherlines and Unimats, but a full range of accessories available, including milling attachments, and they are more than capable of the work done in scale modelling. They are US made, and there is good online community support, as well.

Yes, I have found the very same.

Yes, Yes, nicely done! Nice integration and style. Well done.

This kit has been on my want list' for quite some time. I'm digging your plan for the build. Looking forward to seeing it come together.

Beautiful Toronado! Lovely paint work and the colour is perfect for this car. Very nice!

Nice, tidy build, Kaci. Well done.

I don't drive daily. I own a Subaru. I can only drive when it is working, and that certainly is not every day.

This phenomenon is called 'ghosting'. It is quite common when using 'hot' paints over sanded-off body features. Though I haven't tried it, I have heard that painting on a layer of thin liquid model cement over the sanded surface before final sanding and primer can prevent this from happening.

Correct, the result being that it doesn't look like either one.

All the Evergreen products mentioned by Greg and me are rectangular cross-section, which is what you want. Also, judging by Greg's example above, I would definitely stick to strip that is .020" wide. For .010 thick strip use Evergreen #100 For .015 thick strip use Evergreen #110