Bainford

Lovely little '32. The colour suits beautifully. Nice work.

Nice, tidy 40. Good looking street rod.

I appreciate the problem, here. It is my practice to eliminate all body detail features such as door handles, wipers, door locks, etc during body prep (scripts and detailed side trim excepted) to facilitate cut & polish of the paint, and re-create them later. There are a couple of options for replacement 'printed' rivets, both self-adhesive and printed on decal film. I would be tempted to (or at least, tempted to consider) remove the rivets and develop a solution to restore them onto finished paint. There is no doubt this would be a huge nuisance, and one would have to consider carefully how to proceed before beginning (such as experimenting with the various rivet sources available, mapping or photographing the existing rivets before removing them, develop a method of installing them accurately). In the end, that all seems a bit much. One might only do this on a high-end project, and is probably much more work than 99% of builders are willing to undergo.

A Torino with a Cobra Jet...Cool!!

Yes, as Joe says, the hoods don't open, no engine included. And chassis are one piece. Generally speaking, that goes for all promos.

Stellar! This is how one sweats the details. Excellent work here.

I always use white primer under red if I want the red to be bright. For more muted tones I use gray primer.

Welcome to the forum, Mark. Beautiful builds.

That is one tough looking Countach. The printed details really bring this model to life. The printed details are impressive, and nice work all around.

Nice old roadster. These old kits can be a lot of fun. I had no idea this kit had posable steering, which seems like significant feature from a Monogram kit of this era (or any era). The Indycal decals look to be quite well done, and really bring this old racer to life. Good work all around.

Welcome to the forum, Anthony.

Welcome to the forum, Mark.

Nice clean work. Good looking Lincoln.

Welcome to the forum, Steve, and welcome back to the hobby.

Nothing wrong with second guessing. Heck, I did it three times just this evening at the hobby store.

From your photo, it looks like your attempt to cut and polish has been successful. I don't see a problem with it. If it was mine, I would carry on.

If the model is assembled, you might be up a creek. If the windscreen has been heavily waxed, you might be able to scrape it of with a chisel shaped toothpick or similar, though in my experience CA adhesion is not affected by wax. The only real CA removal method I know of is to sand the glass until the glue is gone, then polish back to clear & shiny. Obviously, a clean job of it can't be done on a finished build.

What is a 'dovetail' hauler? I think your comment regarding many being home built is on the money. Almost anything running around this area in the 60s or 70s was home built, or built-to-order from some local welder/fabricator. Nonetheless, I am interested in haulers of that era so I'll be watching this topic to see what I can glean.

I can't comment on the 1k clear, but I always apply metal transfers after all clear coating, colour sanding, and polishing is done. The same with decals in many cases if, on the 1:1 the decal represents a sticker that is applied to the car, such as a contingency sticker or factory applied vinyl stripes, etc. This often demands trimming away all of the clear carrier film from the edges of the decal image before application. If the decal represents a painted graphic, I always put it under the clear coat. Like anything, there are exceptions. On my current build, which represents a car with a lot of factory applied pin stripe tape, I chose to apply the decals before clear coat as the very thin pin stripe decals were very delicate. Also, with some more complex finishes, the decals are applied when the process demands it, or allows it. There are no hard rules here, though. Many builders put all decals under clear coat, and that's cool, too.

Good question. I am not really wire-wheel savvy. There are subtle differences between one wheel and the next (aside from actual spoke-count) as occasionally discussed by knowledgeable forum members, but I don't know what these differences are or where to look for them. 15" wires are offered in Aston Martin, Jaguar, and Classic British configurations, but aside from the knock-ons they all look similar to me. Perhaps the knock-ons are the primary difference between them all. If that is the case, the Jag wheels most closely match the photo you posted of the Cobra. One thing I can say for sure; all of the Italian wheel offerings are not correct for the Cobra.

NICE!

Welcome to the forum, Ryan. Some cool builds there. Nice hobby room, too.

Have a look at USCP. They have some very nice wires on offer. 3D Printed Wheels 1/24

Good looking Impala. Nice foil work.