Bainford

Excellent point, and quite possibly the original problem. I have had this occur in the past. I trimmed the end of my siphon tube on an angle to avoid this very problem.

As mentioned, Zona makes a very similar square. Amazon has them here Zona 37-434 L-Square, Stainless Steel, 3-Inch x 4-Inch : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

Yup, that's it exactly. I quite like modern Mustangs (well, the ICE ones, anyway). Very good road cars. I like driving them, great for road trips. As Bill pointed out, my comment was of a general nature regarding all modern American performance cars (and perhaps, more generally, most modern cars). If a car such as yours weighed 2000 lbs less, it could be fitted with a 200 hp, 2.0 litre engine and run circles around your current car. It would use 1/3 less fuel. Tires, brakes, and some suspension components would last twice as long. It would out accelerate, out corner, and out brake a 4500 lbs car by a huge margin. And it would be all-round easier to drive. In fact, many of the post-car show wrecks that inspired this thread would not have occurred without the added inertia of an overweight modern performance car. To take the point to an extreme, my ancient-technology Lotus Europa weighs less than 1500 lbs and is fitted with a 113 hp engine and skinny tires, and it will absolutely embarrass many 400+ hp modern cars on a twisty country road. Bloated Corvettes are a favourite. Oh, and Subaru WRX too. I don't know what it is with those guys, but they all want to tangle with the Lotus, they all try to stick with it in the corners, and they all create a huge dust cloud in my rearview mirror from which emerges a much slower travelling Subaru with a driver who needs to change his shorts.

This cannot be overstated! This stuff is nasty x 10. DO NOT use it indoors. ALWAYS wear chemical resistant gloves, a proper respirator, and safety glasses. DO NOT allow it to come in to contact with skin or clothes. DO NOT inhale the fumes. Seriously, when handling muriatic acid, regard all recommended cautions. It may be best to dilute it 50/50 with water, but NEVER add water to acid, ALWAYS add acid to water. Otherwise a violent chemical reaction can occur causing the acid to froth up and boil over. Years ago I had heard that this stuff is great for removing rust from steel car parts, so I gave it a try. I put some in a plastic container, full strength, and set a very rusty crusty brake shoe into it as a test piece. Bubbling began almost immediately, and in five minutes it was boiling. After 10 minutes I pulled the brake shoe out and it was perfectly free of any rust, and the bare metal was already being eaten by the acid. I'd guess in about an hour there would have been very little left of my brake shoe. The off-gassing was indescribably nasty. DO NOT allow yourself to inhale the fumes, as it will combine with the moisture in your throat and lungs and reconstitute as acid, causing very serious chemical burns. I'm not trying to be the model building nanny here, just letting those without experience handling strong acids know that this stuff is no joke.

That's one tough looking Oldsmobile. Nice work.

This might be the saddest statement made in this thread.

Nice looking Chevy.

Good looking Galaxie. Bummer about the decals, but a handsome cruiser nonetheless.

Welcome to the forum, Steve.

The badger 200 is a great all-round work horse. I cut my teeth on one at the age of 15, and used it as my only airbrush for the next 39 years with hardly an issue. The only thing that occasionally annoyed me was the throttle response with the siphon feed under certain conditions. I only bought a different airbrush a few years ago when I finally pulled the trigger (so to speak) on a much-coveted gravity feed, which, from an engineering standpoint, makes a lot of sense. If Badger had created a version of the 200 IL as a gravity feed, it just might be the ultimate model builder's airbrush.

I guess there are different ways to approach this. My recommendation when buying any precision instrument, including an airbrush, is to always buy quality. Especially true if one has no experience with an airbrush. This doesn't mean buying high-end, but it does mean buying a quality brand name. When anyone is on the steep end of the learning curve, buying quality eliminates many potential performance variables and second-guessing, and support is available when needed. Not to mention, parts availability and service advice. Given the plethora of surprisingly inexpensive airbrushes from the big name brands, there is little reason to buy a knock-off whittled out of chinesium. Additionally, a quality-brand airbrush, even an entry-level model, will perform well for a life-time. When buying a cheap knock-off, you are on your own. And any performance issues could quite possibly be poor manufacturing quality. Or not. Without experience, how do you know. Furthermore, it is worth considering supporting the people who make our hobby the joy it is, rather than those who are out to make a quick buck at our expense, while simultaneously ripping off those companies who put the hard work into engineering and manufacturing a proper airbrush.

Yes, and manufacturer support is frequently poor, or not at all. That includes parts availability.

Haha, cheers Michael. Having recently completed final assembly on a very long term build, I can attest to the validity of the statement.

Welcome to the forum, Michael.

What is the new airbrush?

Cool project. I'll be following along. I have a clean Green Hornet original issue re-builder with which I plan to do something similar. I plan to build as originally designed, but add a little detail and some better looking parts for improved shelf-appeal. I think I have a clean Black Widow from the same builder, too.

Me too. For the last week or more photos frequently fail to load, and take a very long time when they do.

It's really a matter of personal preference. I always put foil over clear, and decals too in many cases. If the decal represents a painted graphic, or if it is particularly delicate, I clear over it.

One of the nicest builds I've seen of this kit. Your colour mix looks nearly perfect, and is perhaps the most hansom colour for Mopars of this vintage. Very cool Challenger.

Agreed. That colour combo rocks.

Very Impressive, Francis!! I only view your thread when I have the time to properly absorb the details. Always a treat. Cheers.

Welcome to the forum, Adam.

Welcome to the forum, Don.

Welcome to the forum, Charlie.

That's a neat looking machine. How big (small?) is it?