Bainford

Cripes, David, that is a doctor's order one does not want ever want to hear. Very sorry to hear about your condition, and I hope things go smoothly for you from here on out. As for the build, I like it! Roll with the punches, work with what you have. Once one digs into it, there are probably a lot of non-toxic solutions for many of the procedures we take for granted. I am looking forward to seeing how this project progresses. Cheers.

Looking good, Elliot. I agree about the stance; it's killer.

Yes, don't use that. There are some people who swear by it, but it is indeed dangerous stuff. Its safe use requires special precautions and equipment, such as fresh-air breathing supply, which must be strictly adhered to. But here's the rub; it doesn't even look very good. This is merely an opinion, of course, but I find the ridiculous degree of shine is unrealistic, and personally, quite off-putting. I realise this paint stuff seems quite confusing, and after a while all of the well-intended advice becomes a lot of noise. The fact is, it really is not at all complicated once you start to get a handle on it. It becomes complicated when many builders who have been building many years develop their own process, often employing non-hobby products, and which work very well. But along with all of these variables comes the noise. The vast majority of the advice is good, but the vast volumes of it is hard on the head. Keep it simple. Stick with plastic model related finishing products (which I very highly recommend to anyone jumping into the hobby). Then you need to pick a paint-type (lacquer, enamel, or acrylic), and then pick a trusted brand (Tamiya, Mr Color, AK, etc). Then, stick with that until you have gained some experience, and worked through the trials and tribulations of just applying paint. Eventually all (most?) of the advice will begin to make sense, and as confidence is gained, you may wish to experiment further with other systems, brands, and even non-hobby related products. As for which paint-type to choose, lacquer is perhaps the simplest and most user friendly, and generates great results. If your work area is well ventilated and there is no one in your house who has environmental sensitivities or rags on you about 'the paint smell', there is no reason to not use lacquer (there are many acrylic users who would rather use lacquer but they or someone in the house takes issue with lacquer fumes). As for brands, it is hard to beat Tamiya; widely available, wide range of products, and very high quality. Mr Color is probably the equal of Tamiya, but it is not available in my area so I haven't used it. Other Mr Hobby products are very high quality, and I have no doubt their paints are, too. I realise this is likely all just more noise, but a final comment on painting; whenever spraying paint (can or airbrush), protect yourself by using a quality half-mask with replaceable filters suitable for filtering organic solvents. I use a 3M brand mask (forget the model number) and I believe the P100 filters. The masks come in three sizes (S,M,L), so be sure to get one that fits. A proper industrial supply shop (NOT Harbor Freight) is the best place to get one, and be sure to use it. Lacquer fumes are toxic, and the effects are accumulative over a lifetime, causing potential nerve damage. The good news is, it is easily defended against by using a mask. If you can't smell any fumes at all, you are protected. If you do smell any paint at all while wearing a mask, replace the cartridge or replace the mask with one that fits. I also highly recommend using disposable gloves when handling lacquer thinner, as it can de-fat the skin causing dermatitis, and can be absorbed through the skin contributing to nerve damage. Some disposable glove materials won't withstand lacquer thinner. Gloves made of nitrile are your best bet. P.S. Apologies if this post merely adds to the noise.

The original 1960 Ford F-100 had two exactly like that. I think the 1960 Chev pickup had a couple, too. I see the new release of the 1960 F-100 shows one on the box, so there should be one or two there.

Congrats, Chaz. That's a cool project, for sure. An excellent find, and looks reasonably tidy,... on the outside, at least. Well done!

Thanks Ron. Pretty good that they are willing to stand behind it for three years. That sounds better than Molotow, my pens having gone shiny grey after little more than a year.

Cool Comet, Mike. That thing has some real mean attitude. Nice work.

Thanks for posting these trials, Ron. This stuff looks quite promising, for sure. One thing I will be interested in is seeing how well the stuff lasts in the bottle (shelf life). Only time will tell, of course.

They look so good on such a wide variety of cars/genres, on my model projects I try to find anything else that suits the build, as my tendency is to just put them on everything.

Thanks for the further info, Ron. I got to say, the initial result looks quite good.

It's not, really. As Steve says above, there are more effective areas for testing. When doing your testing, apply the paint fairly heavy. If the plastic/paint combination is prone to crazing, give it the best chance to show that it will.

Recently, while making a sizable order from HLJ, I spotted a curious tool called a decal squeegee. It wasn't expensive, so on a whim I put it in the cart. I actually expected to find it useless, and it sat neglected in the tool box for over a year, but one day during a technical decal application, with which I was struggling, I pulled out the squeegee and it saved the day. It has proven useful ever since and is now part of my standard decal routine. I find it particularly helpful when applying long, thin decals.

Oh yes, the acid test. Cheers. I knew I forgot one. 😊

Well, I'll withhold judgement until you squirt some lighter fluid on it and set it alight, pour a handful of gravel across the hood, and run it through 52 car washes to see if the water still beads. 😉

Cheers Edgar. I learned something new. That interview was interesting. Badly hacked up by a lousy translator, the answers never seemed to fit the questions.

Sweet little 5-window. I am really loving the colours. I can think of some used for that moss green, for sure.

First I've heard of this one. Looks pretty good. Cheers, Ron.

Welcome to the forum, Mon. Selling kits can be a pain, especially at places such as ebay, if it is not something you do regularly. I am not a facebook user myself, but their marketplace seems like a reasonably stress-free way to get rid of kits locally. I have a bunch of kits to get rid of myself, and I may have to swallow my pride and go that route. Trading is allowed on the site, but as Dan says, straight-up selling is not permitted. If you have a list or photos of the kits that you can make available to those who may ask through a PM, I don't think that will violate the forum rules (someone please correct me if I am wrong). It is permissible to arrange sales through Private Messaging. Good luck

Cool subject, Mark! For the last few weeks I have been watching you-tube videos of the television coverage of old NASCAR races from the mid-50s to the mid-70s. They are usually just 26-33 minutes long, and I watch one in the evenings before going off to bed. Just a couple nights ago I watched the '67 Daytona with Mario's win. It was a well-deserved win. Quite a good looking car, too, and I thought I might like to build it, but it will be years before I get around to it, if ever. I'm looking forward to seeing yours come together.

Good story, Luke, and a wonderful, cleanly built replica. Very cool stuff, indeed. It looks wicked cool.

Yeah, this is looking really good.

Good looking colour. Bummer about the paint.

Very cool. It's looking like a proper Street Freak.

Interesting question. I wasn't aware of Tamiya enamels in the 80s. They seemed to appear a few years ago in both the US and Canada, and I thought they were a new product then. People discussed them as a new product, but perhaps they already existed in other parts of the world.

They are lacquer. It is my understanding that all Tamiya spray paints are lacquer. Tamiya uses a naming-code to identify their various paints; Spray cans with the 'TS' paint code are standard hobby lacquers. Spray cans with 'PS' code are hotter lacquers for polycarbonate RC car bodies. Glass bottles with the 'LP' paint code are standard hobby lacquers. Now, for reasons that I really don't understand, the usually pragmatic Tamiya has chosen to use the code 'X' and 'XF' (for flat paints) to identify both their Acrylic line of paints, and their new Enamel line. Why could they not have used a new letter to mark their enamel paints? Perhaps the world would just make too much sense, otherwise. Anyway, the Acrylic and Enamel can be identified from each other by differently shaped glass bottles. The Acrylic is in the typical Tamiya round glass bottle, and the enamels use a square glass bottle, not very un-like the old Testors bottles.