Bainford

Nope. Unfortunately, as Steve suggested above, it is undersized, and not that great by modern standards. The Revell Mustang (with a corrected front end) is orders of magnitude better than this old MPC chestnut. It does have a few cool parts, such as those Minilights, and for anyone building a 68-69 Mustang GT, it has the nicest GT wheels/hub caps I've seen in 1/25. The only decent 1/25 scale alternative to the Revell 69 Mustang is the vintage AMT 69 Mustang. But beware, over the years the MPC Mustang has been marketed under the AMT brand numerous times. Most 69 Mustang kits out there with AMT branding are actually MPC kits in the box. I don't know how many actual AMT tooled issues were released, possibly only the original. If you find one and are in doubt, just ask the forum.

As Scot mentioned above, you need the Revell Boss 302 to get the corrected front end (I can see that yours is definitely not the corrected piece). However, the Boss 302 does not have the Mach 1 quarter panel vents behind the doors (nor the shaker hood, if that matters). To build a decent Mach 1 you will need to combine the front end from the Boss kit with the body shell from the Mach 1 kit.

Nice old Ford. The colours look great in the sun shine. Your windshield repair looks great. The Revell parts seem to fit very well.. Cool old cruiser.

Splendid work, and very entertaining, too, Francis. I always enjoy your updates.

There are probably different ways of going about this. If this was my build, I would trim away the BMF from the inner parts of the window frame, the portion that forms the face against which the glass is placed. This is just for tidier BMF work. Either way, in this situation, I would have no qualms about gluing the glass to well applied BMF. Visible glue is always a problem with window installations such as this. I think I would try clear paint as an adhesive, applied carefully to the window edges. It may also be possible to fit the glass in place first and cleanly flow some Future into the joint. I have a build on the go on which the windscreen fits in this manner. I have been playing with mixing white glue with black acrylic paint to make a black windscreen adhesive, similar to the mastic as used on 1:1 cars. I have done some experiments with the glue mix, but have yet to use it on a windscreen installation. Regarding the rear window, I think I would sand the edges of the glass until I had a nice fit, which mimics well the way in which the glass was fitted to these GM cars.

Cool! I can't think of the last time I saw one of these built. Great save. The zebra interior completes it. Nicely done.

Very nice and tidy Road Runner. Love the colours. Well done.

Good looking Dart, Mike. The 340 Six-Pak is a nice touch.

Welcome to the forum, Lily. East Coast Canadian here, good to see more Canucks on the board. The Ford is looking nice, cool colour. Enjoy the forum.

Yes, very good to hear.

Cool tow truck!

That's a fine looking hauler. Great period look. Love it!

I just love this little Suzuki. I would love to have this in 1:1. It appears well geared and ready to roll. Nicely done.

Lovely build of Gentleman Ned's Galaxie. Great looking stock car. Nice work.

Nice build. The '72 Plymouth was one of Petty's coolest.

Great looking race car. Very fine detailing all around. You captured the period vibe nicely.

Welcome to the forum, and welcome back to the hobby. Always good to see another Lotus on the forum. This kit is a tough one, for sure. One issue with this kit, as you've likely noticed, is it rides too high when build straight out of the box. No worries though, good looking Lotus. If I had one piece of advice; dump the Rustoleum and get yourself some Tamiya paints. They are very user-friendly, lay down thinly, and look great.

Great haul. Lots of really cool stuff, there. I'm really digging the Jo-Han swag. Where does one find this stuff?

Welcome to the forum, Jarno. Good to have you aboard.

I use Mr Surfacer 1000 or 1500, which is basically a lacquer-based liquid filler/primer in a bottle. Since I started using this stuff, I no longer fear scriber-slips; I just apply a drop on offending area, let it cure, then sand it smooth. A quick and easy repair. Note that the Mr Surfacer does shrink quite a bit as it dries, so I place a thick drop right to the damage to be sure there is enough to fill the slip-mark. If not, a second application is quickly and easily done. It dries quite quickly and sands back easily. For ragged panel lines, I have had some success painting the Mr Surfacer into the groove, letting it set, then carefully scribe a cleaner line. It may help to do this after the stuff has set up, but before it cures fully. Some experimentation will be required to get the timing right. Success may depend on the quality of your scriber. For panel lines that have been scribed right through the plastic (when you didn't want it to), the best bet might be to glue a strip of .005" thick plastic sheet to the inside of the body at the panel line to give the groove a 'bottom'. Then, if necessary, clean up the groove with some Mr Surfacer. Mr Surfacer feathers out very nicely. I frequently use it as a final step to any significant body work or putty work. It fills any small scratches and pores in courser fillers. After the body work is done and the filler sanded back, I apply a final coat of Mr Surfacer (just brush it on) then sand it smooth once it cures.

That's an impressive model. I like the graphics, has a nice clean look.

I am really digging the little Suzuki overlander. That thing is COOL!

Beautiful Shelby, Gustavo. Very clean, and that red just pops. Love it!

Superb '40. Very nice work. Great details all around, and nice finish, to boot. Oh, and the stance is killer. Very well done.

This is looking great. Classic colour.