Bainford

Thanks much for posting all of this, Andrew. I have just spent an enjoyable 1 hr+ going over the details. Excellent reference if I ever get around to do my long awaited 49 build, but I keep putting it off because I know I will be into a multi-year project. Best detail photos I've yet seen showing the construction of the windscreen. I have only encountered a 49 once in my life, at the Beaulieu Museum in England back in 2002. It was a quiet day and the care-taker was lavishing attention on the 49, and politely answered all my questions and filled me with interesting anecdotes, and allowed me to get up close and personal with the car. I was still using 35 mm cameras then, and car museums are always notioriously under-lit (why is that), Beaulieu particularly so, so my photos are not great. I have long forgotten what chassis number it was.

I am certainly curious. Is it a metal foil like BMF? Or something flexible like the Hasegawa stuff? Any photos of this stuff applied to a model?

Not much work to do each day. Even I could manage to get that built by Christmas. Though, door 11 has three parts to fit plus two stickers to apply... that could be a rough day.

A simply awesome build, Daniel. The Bad Man never looked so good. I always enjoy your builds. So much thoughtful, authentic detailing. You've got skills, brother. I love it. I am digging your hood pin arrangement. I have not seen this solution before, is this your idea? Either way, I have been planning a '53 Ford F-100 build that will need hood pins and I haven't worked out a decent way of incorporating them. I'll be steeling this idea. Cheers.

Good looking 442.

Yes, this is very handy to know. Further to that, it is also worth knowing that 1 mm = .040" (40 thou), which also makes for easy math; .040" = 1" in scale, .020" = 1/2", .010" = 1/4", .005" = 1/8", etc., and .080" = 2". Kudos to the OP for wanting to keep it in scale. Get yourself an inexpensive (but not plastic) set of dial or digital calipers. I much prefer dial myself, but one big advantage of the digital calipers is they can measure in both metric and imperial, which, given the above statements, can be very handy.

Cool little car. I'm digging the hinge work. I like the door handles, too. It's a cute little thing.

Excellent choice, Steve. Very interesting styling. The rear 3/4 view of a '61 Dart is just sublime. The '60 & '61 Darts are my favourite of the swoopy Mopar era. This is going to be cool. May the force be with you.

Nice looking Shelby.

Lovely work, Greg. That's one of the coolest rods I've seen on the forum. Really loving the inline six. Great colours, great stance, great style. Excellent stuff.

Pearl white is quite thin and doesn't cover well by itself. Often you need to apply a white base coat (either paint or primer) before the pearl white.

Welcome to the forum, Tom. That is one sweet wrecker. Lovely work. Looking forward to seeing more.

Really!? That's very interesting. I have not heard this, but it would be good to see Checo back in the cockpit.

Very cool display. The Roth cars look great posed together in front of his shop. Very nice work.

Very cool. Nice save.

Really glad to see this one back on the bench. I've been keeping an eye out for it. The paint is bringing it to life. The W looks good.

Nice work. I really like where this is headed.

My wife just tells me to shut up.

When you insert a photo into your post, double click on it and a window will open with the current WIDTH and HEIGHT dimensions of the photo, and you can change those dimensions to whatever you like. Make sure the box "Keep original aspect ratio" is checked, and you only have to change one of the dimensions, the other will change automatically. At least, that's how it is supposed to work, and hopefully it will work for you. It used to work for me, but for the last year or more, whenever I post a photo and change the size, it returns to its original size when I submit my post. I often set the WIDTH dimension to 1200, as in the test photo below, and it changed in the post draft, but when I posted the post, the photo reverted back to its 1495 original size. Good luck.

I don't care if they run them on monkey pee, just bring back Naturally Aspirated engines, and leave the hybrids for soccer moms and their huge, over-powered SUVs.

Welcome to the forum, Tim. Lots of inspiration to be found here. Cheers.

I am very much looking forward to watching this kit come together.

Spray! It helps to apply the masking tape to a piece of glass, and use a straight edge and sharp blade to cut a clean edge on the tape. Apply the tape to mask the stripes, burnishing down the edges well. Spray a couple very light coats, light enough that there is no liquid paint on the surface that can flow under the tape edge. Let these very light coats set up well, then spray your beauty coat. This will help prevent paint seepage, though a well prepared mask shouldn't suffer that problem.

I use CA to glue brass, aluminum, and other materials together, or to plastic. There are other times when it is used because its quick curing or great capillary action solves a strategic problem. CA comes in various viscosities. Most builders on here seem to like the thicker CAs, but I only ever use the extra thin stuff. If you get some CA, get some accelerator or 'kicker' also. After applying CA, if you want instant curing, apply a drop of kicker to the joint. It often comes in a spray bottle, but I use a pipette to draw some from the bottle and apply it directly to the joint. I primarily use Bob Smith Industries (BSI) brand. They are created for the hobby industry, come in several viscosities, and in a few sizes of bottles. And their kicker doesn't harm plastic or paint finishes. However, pretty much any CA will work. Even cheap grocery store offerings of Krazy Glue or Super Glue are perfectly fine. They also tend to be on the thin side, which works for me. Keep in mind that when CA cures, it emits a gas that will permanently fog clear, chrome, and some painted surfaces.

It's not a Holy Grail, it's just expensive. Alsa Corps Easy Chrome, created for 1:1 vehicles, is a decent chrome finish that can be handled as well as any paint. They have a clear coat for outdoor use, but on models there is no need at all to use it. Developed for the 1:1 industry, they do make the product available in a 'hobby size' kit, but it cost $229 USD. Many forum members have long said that a good looking, durable, airbrushable chrome would be the best thing ever, yet no one has ponied up and done a comparison with Easy Chrome and the known hobby chrome paints. I've been keen to try some myself, but I really don't have a lot of use for a chrome paint. My original Molotow chrome refill is still over 3/4 full, and works well enough to make the occasional chrome dot on a dash knob. Curiosity still compels me though, so I could yet buy the Easy Chrome some day. I will certainly post a review when it happens, but don't hold your breath. ( Easy Chrome | The World's Most Exotic Finishes )