randyc

I will never build this one, Adam. But I sure enjoyed the write up and wondered myself about the decals. Nothing really threre to be offensive, but seems weird nevertheless. I love the reviews.

Beautiful. Realistic. What more can you ask for? Great work.

I think I remember the T bird from the other magazine. It may have been Larry that I originally read saying to treat each piece as it's own model. And yes, I'm pretty much box stock now, and it especially applies I think.

A set of drafting dividers can be set up to scribe a line. Like a compass but with two metal points. The line could be scribed to make an 'edge" for paint or foil. Or you could take a thin strip of plastic and glue it to the inner edge. Sand it down to stick out ever so slightly and shape inside and out as necessary. Cover with paint or foil.

I think I may have a couple fo that basic casting. Will try to remember to watch and see how it goes.

I just looked all the way through. Yes it does look like it will be a nice kit. I do wonder what hte SECOND version will be? Will it be a "hot rodded" version? I like the stock look, but a hot rod version of some sort would be great too. Being able to see the instruction sheet gives us an idea of what will be there anyway, til we can all sniff the new plastic. I bet there will be quite a few aftermarket parts for this one. Off Road equipment would be great!

So while we're all speculating on new kits, I was looking at the Revel site and the new bronco listing. Instructions link is available. You can at least get an idea of what's going to be in teh box. Just a thought... http://manuals.hobbico.com/rmx/85-4320.pdf

I dug out the 67 Charger last night and found the pics online of the paint scheme. Copper with copper interior. Easy - paint everything one color. lol. I love those cars that had same interior as exterior. I have built several of the Revel Coronets, GTX(?). I think I have built most all of the original issues, except Sox & Martin, maybe. I did the Drag-On Lady version instead. I did see a Dart box while I was digging thru so I know where it is. I have to keep my projects limited to a manageable number. SO the Dart will have to wait, if that's the P/S one in the box. I've got the Cuda up now and the Charger next. And a guy is supposed to be mailing me a 280ZX to finish for him. And a couple of hot rods. All this is subject to change at any time. Oh yeah and the Roth F100 in the box that I started long enough ago that the decals are turning yelllow on the white body already. Ugh. See what happens when you start digging through old boxes....lol

Nice. I love this kit. I radiused the rear wheel openings to match a picture I saw. Other than that, just like yours.

You guys keep showing these wonderful builds. Almost makes me want one. Almost. The wheels look good. Are the slots molded open? How thick are they? I'm working on teh revell 71 Cuda and whiel the wheel faces are fine, the back of the wheel is so thick, the slots practically disappear. I know these have the "chunky" centers and would be wrkng on the Cuda. But still, wheels go a long way.

Paint it, if you can make it look good. Photobucket is still trying to open on my machine. But... trim painted same as body just looks toyish, imo. Needs to be chrome or black or something. I'm not avers to the paint. If you can get it on kinda thick and blow on it, it might chrome up a little better. I read that somewhere. Works. heck I use a silver sharpie sometimes just to keep a piece from being too chrome like. Like you, it's my build and I'll do it my way. But I would paint the trim. My vote.

Looks like a late 70s/early 80s common hot rod. Except the wheels. I llike it! Keep going!

LOL. I'm working on it. Got fist coats of paint on it. Not my best work, but I'll wet sand some to get it smoother, then put another coat on it. Maybe some pics when I get there. I have one door card foiled. Didn't want to do the other right away. Leave some of that fun for later.... ugh. Engine details going on. I build and detail kinda haphazardly. Whatever part I'm in the mood for. I don't even know what hood I'm using yet. I painted them both. Also went in with small ball grinder and thinned the back of the rally wheels to look more scale. Those moldings were heavy handed to say the least. The holes are openend up more now. But the time spent on frames seems to look like a worthwhile investment on this body. Thanks for the encouragement.

WOW! I tried this one and actually gave up completely. Not even as a "someday" project. I don't often give up but I did on this one. Yours is beautiful.

Day 2 cars are the best! Awesome!

Thanks. Comes from 40+ years of model building and playing with toy cars. I was looking for the secrets to perfect models myself...

ok. just checking. Freaky how similar your stories are.

I worked my way through college in the 80s as a sign writer (painter). I love One Shot for airbrushing. Lays down slick as glass and dries rock hard in a a day. Not like hobby enamels that are still soft after years. I didn't know that lead had been removed. Whatever the formula, it used to be my favorite gloss paint. As an aside, I was recently in Boone, NC in Sept 2016. I have always made it a point to ride by Wheeler's produce stand. I lettered a sign for them while I was in college in 87 - 91. THat sign is still legible today. Barely. But that is one shot paint we used back then with a good oil based base on the plywood. This sign is under and overhang, so it has been protected from the worst of the sun. But interesting that it is still there and still legible. The business is closed now and will likely be torn down for something new. Most of Boone has been. But still there in 2016.

Mr Obssessive doesn't know it, but he is my mentor. lol His one statement that I have read countless other times is to finish each piece as it's own model. Take the time to scrape, sand, fill, etc each piece before painting. And then work it some more if needed after paint. and paint it again. My biggest peeve is seams and parting lines. These ruin so many otherwise awesome models. What good is a flawless paint job if you missed that parting line running down the side of the body? Or an intricate exhaust painted perfectly and has parting lines? Or a transmission or oil pan with a seam that hasn't been cleaned up? These are the basics that all the contest judges say they are looking for. Not that I am a contest modeler. I have won a trophy, but the bar wasn't too high. And looking at those kits now, I see so many things I am better at now. Also, as someone else said, do your research if you want it to look real. Internet has mist every piece of every car for sale or photographed somewhere. Find those details. a 72 cutlass has a chrome strip between the upholstery and the plastic back of the seat. Figure out how you can reproduce that. It makes the difference. Figure out how to paint that radio molding and those knows to look like the real deal. And be willing to think out of the box. Lately I figured if I foiled a section of woodgrain on a console or dash, then I can paint wood or color up to edge and leave a tiny line of chrome showing. These are my obsessions - getting these things right. I gave up wiring and detailing engines recently. No one ever sees that part of my builds. I do make them look as good as I can with what is given. And add pieces if it's easy and FUN for Me. Soo make it the best you can. And do it the way that keeps it fun. IT's supposed to be a hobby for most of us.

I work at a desk I bought at Goodwill and keep the center drawer with my tools in it open. Many things fall into there. After that it's the concrete floor. but things go to the craziest places. Lost a hood pin. thought it fell in drawer. Not. A few days later, something was glinting at me from the floor under the desk...yep. I can't imagine working over carpet. I haven't in many years.

I started to get on you about being too particular, but you are right. That's WAY off. I'd be having the sign company re-do that one.

Yes the Revell 70 in 1/25. Not the older 71 in 1/24. Yes those moldings are terribly soft in the kit. I looked at a lot of finished models yesterdat and the real deal too. All the complaints about other stuff and no one seems to mind that the drip moldings are like 3 scale inches wide and no definition to them. The Dart kits are so much better. I've bult 4 of them, I think, and started a pro street that's never been finished. Can't remember what the holdup was. I 'back halved" the frame, it was going well. Can't remember why I quit working on it.

Cool. Keep at it.

After much looking on the net and this site, it apparently is the body molding that is soft and not anything I did. Especially when compared to a 1:1 Cuda. If you are building this one, go ahead and be ready to spend some time cleaning up and detailing those areas. I always try to sharpen the edge of window frames using the tip of an Xacto. Sorta like scribing the door lines to give them more definition. Mark Gustavson did that on one of his customs and I always thought it reall helped clean up and make foiling easier.

Love it!