randyc

Wish I had some of those WW transfers we were talking about - working on a car that needs them!

I wanna see that! I don't wanna build it though - you do that!

Thanks for that tip about the 55s. I have looked to see if they were the same. I *might have a 60 Ford chassis. not sure the juice would be worth the squeeze either way on the transplant chassis. I do olike the sturdiness of a diecast chassis - in most cases. The later Mint cars with working suspension are kida fragile. Once mine go in a case, they rarely come back out. And they are up high so no one would be looking at what's under the hood. Just finshed the 59 Chrysler, and for display, can't tell the difference. Sounds good. I love the working top on my Franklin mint car. Might be nice to have the top workings for this one. All the metal struts and such. But I am going to try to make this one work from the kit parts.

1/25 I believe it says. Google Revell 1959 Ford and you should get plenty of information. I'm at work so don't have box to check.

See if this helps. To me, they look very close side by side.

Hmmm interesting. Can't wait to see it. Not sure if I remember that one or not. looks vaguely familiar though. I did build the plastic stock hardtop for an uncle that owned a real one.

You're having issues like I am recently. Maybe. If it's bubbly, that is a different issue than if it's crazing or attacking the paint below and wrinkling. I think mine is weather (humidity) related. maybe not completely, but partially. I have painted cars for 30 years and never had as many issues as this year. I also suspect newer "safer" paint formulations have something to do with paints. that's my case and opinion. And maybe too much paint (too slow passes)? But on yours, a week between coats should have given the first coat time to gas out. Or maybe too much time and it reacted? What does the label say about recoats? I've had that cause problems as well. But a week??? Should have been fine. I always try to put on first coat of anything lightly to see if it's going to react with whatver is below, even if it's same brand/line. Maybe too wet a coat and the solvents attacked the paint below. I know it is very disheartening no matter what. It's bizzare that there are some completely shiny smooth places. Did you shake well? IDK but hope you can fix it - this will be a beautiful model in that color.

I did the 60 Vette years ago and it was *mostly* ok, but had one big gap. Trying to NOT do that again.

I'm really wanting this one to work out nicely, so I'm trying to think it completely through. I've read several things about it on the net. I figure having a "surface plate" can't hurt. I have a Revell Austin-Heally multi piece after this. Wish I had the steel plate with magnetic blocks to block/lock it in place. May still use some wood blocks to hold it.

Hmmm Not sure I'm familiar with that one. I had the 1/18 hotwheels lowrider - completely over the top. Can't wait to see it.

I am always behind on building the new kits. I wait til the prices come down and reviews are in - or I just haven't gotten to it. yet. So here's my 300. In one photo you can see where I had to FILE (lol) and then polish the bubbles out of my lacquer. Yes I'm too lazy/impatient to purple pond it. can't see it on the shelf and I'm ok with it. Nice kit mostly. A bit heavy-handed in some places compared to the delicacy of the AMT 57 (which I can't find my built of). Then decals do not match the molding. Next model I'll use the foil under paint technique I think. Should have here. I'm pleased with it and there is a bonus photo or two of the Moebius with a $10 Motormax diecast 55 with the Moebius wheel covers. This kit may have the BEST taillight assembly ever committed to plastic. The whole kit looks pretty fabulous when complete. As Larry Greenburg used to say, "highly recommended"

Here's a few photos with the Moebius wheel covers and with the Moebius 56 for size comparison. They are about the same size, really.

the body remains pretty good though, doesn't it? Mine looked pretty sharp. Edges,as mentioned, as well as shape, trim, etc. And only game for now. body shape is still better than the Danbury Mint diecast - I don't have a Franklin to compare it to.

Here's a new one that I'll be working on for a bit probably. IF you're familiar, you know about the multi piece body. I read somewhere to build off the chassis plate to help make sure everything goes together squarely to have better chance of roof working properly. I have a diecast 57 Ford Mint car, so this one will pair nicely. Plus I have a Chevy and Chrysler from 59, so I need a Ford for the contrasts of the big 3 from that year. See photo - I am assembling on this piece of nice FLAT 3/4" plywood. Actually considering screwing the frame to the board to keep it in place. I can fill the hole in bottom later. I have the inner doors in place with "tacky glue" since they locate the body to chassis. Does the assembly in photo look like I'm ready to start gluing this all together? Trunk lid fits snugly and can be filed/sanded at edges later to make better. I tried to sand the front fender tops to leave the chrome trim exposed a bit like on the rest of that slab. Worked the edges to get a better fit. Just wanted someone that has built it successfully to review and let me know if you think I'm good to start gluing the 4 main pieces together. And make sure I'm on the right track here. I assume when I get this glued fairly securely, I'll go in behind and reinforce all the joints. I plan to use a combination of CA and mdel cements to make it fairly sturdy - I'm ham-handed sometimes. Needs to be sturdy. I also have a killed 55 Ford Diecast (se thrread on diecast page about 4 cars) that can give up as many chassis/engine parts as needed. Wonder if... wouldn't that be pretty cool to use that frame and running gear? May use the 55 wheels anyway. This issue of the 59 has the flippers that could go elsewhere. Inputs welcome at this point before I glue.

I hope you get it in good nick. I love that phrase. Hope I used it correctly.

Nice choice.

76 CAPRICE GASSER? lol

And that may be my issue - the SPEED that I spray. Thanks for tips guys. I recently got the 65 Grand Slam and the 2+2. Looks like the 2+2 is missing the nose beak - if anyone has an extra... Now back to the OLDs.

Well, the seller offered my guy a full refund. Soooo..... if you see anything that may be usable on these, shoot me a PM and we'll see. We are watching another Fury that says "ISSUES", so I may need some parts from the Fury? Or the engine may go in my Revell 29 Ford? Or maybe a Fury Speedster? IDK. The COLOR on the Fury is really an awful shade of white. Putty? IDK. It's pretty awful and I won't put a lot into another one. I am going to clean the 56 Ford and see how it looks. Needs a door handle and something done with the spotlights. I'm thinking of removing them and plugging the holes as if they were removed intentionally. 55 wheels may go on my Revell 59? Then the flippers can go on something else... I don't know. Will evaluate it all tonight. I just put it all back in box yesterday til I knew what to do with it. It's a new world opf possibilities.... yeah right. lol

Phew. glad it wasn't me. I try do my best when shipping.

Yup. And there's no repairing 3 of these. Newspaper is NOT a proper wrapping medium for Mint or any other model cars. The cars I have most received damaged were wrapped in newspaper or paper of some sort. I bought a 58 Bonnevvile and the whole front end had been torn off in shipping. Just because that one was NOT packed enough to keep it still in the box. we agreed to a big partial refund and I kept it and repaired it. Just don't breathe on it too hard...the whole front may fall off. Bubble wrap if pulled too tightly can also damage cars. there has to be a "feel' for what is "just right". Some folks get it, some don't. Those who don't are usually flipping from a collection bought at auction and they really aren't used to shipping models. If seller has more other stuff than models, probably taking your chances. I have received more than one car that was wrapped to [US] Football size ( and shape) in bubble wrap, then taped so thoroughly I had to cut the tape apart to figure out where to begin unwrapping. You'll likely damage it yourself with those if you aren't careful. Those mint cars are in their original styro as they are for a reason. Can't beat that if you want a car protected as it ships. But my range is usually lower than that. I did have one buyer who was very explicit in his expectations of how cars was to be wrapped for shipment. I am starting to understand their feelings. I am trying to complete another deal on "junkers" that are nice enough to fix or rob. I may just caution them to please wrap carefully and no newspaper!

Yeah I can llive with them coming with a few loose parts if the parts are still in the box and were there to start with. Not sure how they'll work this out. It's not on me, not up to me. I'm just holding them for now. My buddy didn't even open the box - he put it in a larger box with a couple plastic kits (unharmed) and sent it all to me. I'll tell him to start opening them from now on before forwarding. That wasn't the Corvette I sold you was it? If so I do apologize. I don't think I had a 66 or a Danbury though. I guess the black white car could be put in a falling tree diorama. OR a farmers insurance commercial, if you've seen those... or Mayhem?

Talk about a sick feeling. POOR PACKING! Nothing salvageable except hte 56 Ford, maybe. Others are nothing but parts at this point. my buddy did hte ebay deal so they will have to work it out. Hope seller doesn't want these shipped back and hope he cheerfully refunds my bud's money. You simply can't roll a Mint car in newspapare and pack 3 across in the USPS box with the TOP against the outside of the box. Only funny thing about it is that he put the styro bokc and protected the antennae on teh 57 but the windshield is completely busted. Everyone's cars just went up a little tiny bit. Some shard of plastic fell out of the 56 (first car) when I opened it, so I started taking photos. It was rolled in newspaper on top of the other 3 and had more paper around it. After that I took pics as I unwrapped things. May end up with some nice wheel sets and engines. Sad sad sad.

Hey that looks like a fun one to build. If it were mine, I'd spray the whole thing with dull coat to knock the shine off the bottom. Much like a demo derby car I helpoed a friend with many years ago, as far as mods go and the whole "feeling" of the car.

I'm having this issue now with the Testors one coat lacquer. Too much paint from the can for me I think. It doesn't run - it pools and bubbles. I'm just not good with cans or the lacquer apparently. Good luck getting it sorted out - looks like it will be beautiful when done.