Brett Barrow

i certainly enjoy a full rack ;) :D :lol:

Thanks, I'm going to give them a try next thing I do that needs that type of belts

Paint racks are the lifeblood of a hobby shop. Any owner that refuses to get with the time and get a new paint rack in there is just throwing money away. Same thing with an owner that doesn't keep their racks filled. First thing I look at when I walk into a shop is the paint racks. If they're dusty and empty or outdated I know that shop's not doing too well. I could tell the days were numbered at one of my (now closed) LHSes when their racks started going empty.

They don't typically, but because they dry faster you can add more coats sooner. Some acrylics brush better than others, I've never had much luck brushing Tamiya, but Vallejo brushes out great if they're applied over a primer or another paint, they don't like bare plastic at all. Model Master Acryl is a decent brushing paint, they have a lot of the automotive colors in the line, like Chevy Engine Red and others. I'm a long time convert away from enamels, I'd say I was still a teenager, so it's been almost 20 years since I switched. I still use enamels for certain things, like weathering effects and washes and the occasional handbrushed details, but not for coverage coats anymore. I tried using a dehydrator to speed up the drying time of enamels, but I found I just got hot paint, it still didn't dry!

Enamels can take a looooooooong time to dry. If that's all you have access to, go ahead and use them, but there are quicker drying alternatives out there, like acrylics and lacquers, I prefer the Tamiya and Testor's Lacquers in spray cans and the Testors Model Master Acryl line, Tamiya Acrylics, and Vallejo Acrylics in bottles for handbrushing or airbrushing.

We carry them where I work, they look great flat on the sheet. Have you ever had any problem with the paint flaking off when you bend them?

Ah, good ol enamels!!! Why do people still use them???

The right rear wheel looks pretty wonky, I'd try to make sure the wheels are all straight and aligned on the next one.

Just add some of the red paint into white primer, if they are compatible paints.

There is a write-in box at the end for what you want them to do next. I'm not too exited about what they've got coming up either, except for the 09 Yamaha MotoGP bikes and the Rossi figure.

That turned out killer! I was a bit skeptical when you started with the snake skin, as I really liked the paint job the way it was, but now I think it works as a race car. I think for a street car it would be over the top. How did you like the Eduard PE belts? I've used their aircraft seat belts for years, but I've yet to try the 24th scale ones.

Nice model. A note to those also wanting to build this car, Perry's Resin sells a transkit that also includes decals. I can't speak for the rest of the transkit, but I have the Minilites and tires and brakes that come with it and they're very nice. http://www.perrysresin.com/catalog/cat_sportscars.htm

Tamiya USA's having a survey for new kit ideas - taking it earns you a 25% off coupon for use on the site. I voted for next year's Ducati MotoGP bike which will be ridden by Valentino Rossi You can take it here.

I found out today that Carol at The Modelhaus broke her leg yesterday, it sounds pretty bad as she says it needs to be pinned and they can't do that until Fri after the swelling's gone down. I don't know them personally, I was just checking on an order I had placed, I thought those of you who know them better than I do would like to know.

I've never seen cars that were that offset before, these things must of never came down to my neck of the woods!!!

I've seen 24/25th models that the pulleys and fan would turn when you spin the rear wheels, giving the illusion of a running engine.

Subscribed!!! I've got this one in the stash, too, really looking forward to seeing what you do with it.

They've had all sorts of problems with this car. I hear the high-beams come on when it gets cold.

I just need more practice, or maybe a different mouse or pad, because I can't draw a smooth curve at all!!!!

Thanks so much for putting this together!!! I found the source photo and I've been playing around with it. I just need to get a little smoother with the mouse, or maybe I need to try a pen and tablet?

If we're talking shiny stuff (cars & motorcycles) I have 1 finished here at the house, and there are 5 Moto GP motorcycles I built and sold that I presume are still on display in the customers' homes, I have about 50 kits unbuilt, and I'd say all 50 of those are in some sort of advanced planning stages in my brain, if not actually opened and started Research and planning are my favorite parts of the hobby! There's probably still a box or two at my mom's place in VA that has my childhood/teenage builds in it, I's say I did about 50 shiny things back then. I have and will continue to rob finished builds of parts, for me it's about the journey and not the destination, you know?

Now that kinda stuff happens all the time!!!

Tamiya Clear Red (TS-74) over Tamiya Mica Red (TS-39) makes a very nice and much easier to apply "faux" Candy Red finish. I stole that from a Tim Boyd article in the other mag. edit - Mr Boyd also added a layer of TS-13 Clear over the Clear Red so that any sanding or polishing would not change the intensity of the red layer.

Eighties indeed! Gotta wear shades to look at that paint job!!! I'm working on that same kit right now. Rep & Min Co of MD sells a back seat for the 150, BTW, so you don't have to buy a whole kit for the seat, but I'm glad you did because that turned out a very nice model!

Could have just been a really, really bad short shot. I work for a model distributor, we see 1,000s of kits go through the place every month, it's rare to see one missing a body. I'd be suspicious. Bodies, clear parts and decals, too, they're all the things modelers screw up the most, so it's suspicious when they're missing.