Brett Barrow

There's a couple broken picture links edit- fixed.

It's time for another Bill and Len build!!! Really looking forward to this one, the kit and the build! I do have a question - I keep seeing these cars called "Mini Chargers", how much smaller than an actual Charger are they? Maybe you have a Charger body you could compare side-by-side?

A recent issue of Fine Scale Modeler boasted something like "120 New Product Reviews - Most Ever!" across the top. I work in the hobby industry, and it really is an explosion of not only new kits, but new products for finishing models, new tools, new accessory parts, all kinds of stuff. The hobby is changing, that's for sure. What you're seeing in car modeling is that it has to get "wider", meaning that it used to be about getting the most number of people to buy just a couple of kits, but now you're trying to sell fewer and fewer people a bunch of different kits each, and to do that, you have get wider with your subject matter and give these few guys left a reason to buy new kits by offering something different. You're going to sell fewer pieces, which means the price goes up, but new tooling sells and new tooling is what is causing this explosion you see in other areas.

I've heard of two-part urethane, so what's the third part? Love? :lol: Just kidding, I know - resin, catalyst, reducer. It really does look great, I'm not one to blow smoke.

Yes, exactly. Find those little mold seams we all know and love, and you've found where the insert goes into the mold.

I remember that article. It's always been in the back of my head. There was recently another one in Model Military Int'l http://modelmilitary.com/frames/issues/issue053.htm that brought it back to the front!

How are you selecting what colors to use? Do you use the eyedropper set to a wide sample area to get a sort of "average" for the same area in the reference? Or do you just go to the palette and find a color you like?

The tinwork under the hood is almost completely symmetrical. Based on what I read before the editing, this is gonna be a wild ride!

The spirit of the Treehugger is strong with this one I would suggest you not rag on people here for box-stock building. There are some of the most talented builders in the world on here who build out of the box. edit- I guess Harry edited the box-stock comments out. Calling someone a box-stock modeler is considered a compliment on this board.

That ought to be awesome. I've always wanted to do the C11ADF, based on the AMT 1941 Ford Woody, maybe when I finially find that magical Round Tuit?

I think there's a no thumbnails policy around here. I'll go check the forum rules. edit - well, maybe an unspoken rule. More like a set of unspoken guidelines, really...

Things are starting to make sense! It looks like you are using the eraser as the "brush" more than the brush itself. Why? Will you make the full .PSD file available when the tutorial is complete so we can fool around with it?

A new Badman using the new-tool '55 would be awesome.

Very cool!!! Thanks for taking the time to do this!!!

Looks like the rear wheels in the Maz/SWC Willys would have been a better choice. I'm probably in the minority, but I wouldn't mind building a replica of the restored car, I would just rather they pick one or the other, it seems like they used period-correct parts on the engine, but the wheels from the restoration. Either make an accurate replica of the car today, or an accurate replica of the car 40 years ago, don't mix-and-match

Molded in belts are soooooooo retro!!!

How'd I miss this? That looks great. The most famous WWII Chevy trucks would have to those of the British LRDG, they still have that instantly recognizable waterfall grille that the later military pattern trucks would lack.

Love the two-tone 210's (The roof and "fin panel" are the accent color for those that don't know out there). Can you still get to it? I'm having a hard time understanding the beltline trim in 3 dimensions. I might need some pictures from some funky angles to better understand it. This one will be something hotter, but I guarantee this won't be the last 210 I do. I'd like to do a 4-door one day, the 210 4-door was the most popular '57 Chevy.

This. Will. Be. Awesome.

When Revell recently followed-up their very nice 57 Chevy 150 Utility Sedan (aka the "Black Widow") with an equally well-done Bel Air 2-door sedan, I instantly knew I had to snag one and build it as a middle-trim level 210! Luckily Revell made it very easy for me because they failed to add the Bel Air's extra trim around the c-pillar and drip rail, they basically just took the roof right off the 150's body. They also missed the beltline molding under the windows, I'm not sure if I'll be able to add this with my meager skills, I'll probably just fake it with cut strips of foil in the end. So all I really needed to do to the body to turn it into a 210 is remove the finned aluminum panel from the Bel Air's iconic quarter panel. I wish I had remembered to take a before pic, but here's the after - Here's the body with most of the tools I used to scrape and sand away the raised detail - The bulk of the work was done by scraping with the curved Xacto and scalpel blades. I could target an individual line and the curve of the blade prevented me from touching the trim that would remain. I've also started to deepen the door and panel lines, they are very shallow in some places, especially for a new-tool kit. The trunk is especially bad. No way this line would hold up to paint and primer! The biggest changes will take place in the interior (if I decide to build it with a stock interior). Revell totally nailed the unique pattern of the Bel Air sedan, but I'll need to change it to the 210's different layout. Here's the kit's door panel, which is totally correct for the Bel Air 2-door sedan. And this is what I need to convert it to - The seats are very close out of the box, the only problem is that the seat back insert comes all the way down to the horizontal seam on the 210. Again, the kit part is accurate for what it's supposed to represent. I think I'll just leave the seats as they are, this panel is the same color as the rest of the upper seat back in the 210, and shouldn't be too noticeable(they're a contrasting color in the Bel Air). The vertical ribbing is very finely molded and there's no way I'd be able to match that if I extended it to the seam. Now comes the REALLY HARD PART! Deciding whether to build it as - #1 - a sinister Black Fuelie - #2 - a gasser similar to this one - or #3 - a 60's "Junior Stock" racer (these decals are available by Decals by Lucas) options 2 and 3 would save some interior work as I could just use plain 150 interior panels and call it a stripped down racing interior, but that Black Fuelie just looks sooooo coooool!! I'll have to see how my bodywork looks under some primer, as that black paint won't do me any favors!

Maybe I need even more basic, I mean to get this illustration look you start with a real picture and draw over top of it, right? I made my avatar by selecting the black areas, unselecting the white strips and internal details, making the background transparent, and adding a drop shadow, that's about the extent of my 'shopping skills .

I think Block held the record for a brief time. Pastrana's jump shattered the previous record by almost 100 feet - ~260ft vs ~170ft. I think Block's record jump was ~140ft.

I really want to learn how to do this! I have the latest Elements and I know how to fake layer masks, but about all I ever use it for is just crops and resizes. Are there some tutorials out there somebody can recommend?

That's outrageous! SRP for this kit is $32.95, $60 is ridiculous!

That's a possibility, because RoG boxes are the horrible flat end-opening style, they can fit larger decal sheets inside.