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Everything posted by Brett Barrow
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This might help - http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/clear-coats-with-future-floor-acrylic/
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I have mine ratchet-strapped to my bench leg. Some people run an eyebolt into a stud and wrap a length of chain around it. I used to get tanks with a guard/handle when I'd exchange them, but my supplier rarely has them anymore. If you take your regulator off when you're not going to be using it, that would make it a lot safer as the regulator sticks out at a right angle and would most certainly break off if the tank tipped over.
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I've used a 20lb. tank for about 15 years, I get about the same results, a year to 18mos when I'm doing a fair amount of painting. At the rate I'm going now, this fill ought to last me 5 years! I've thought about getting a small tank, like a 5lb. to make it easier to take outside or maybe even to club meetings for demos. If your source is nearby, you might find the smaller tank more convenient, although at my source the fill for the larger tanks and the smaller tanks cost the same, about $15, and every 5 years you have to pay for a hydrotest, which is also around $15.
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Scratchbuilding vs. Kitbashing
Brett Barrow replied to Harry P.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
No hard feelings at all, I would never take anything anyone said over the internet personally. You can call it whatever you want to call it, my real beef is with those who think of scratch building as some sort of morally superior form of modeling. The IPMS would call it scratchbuilt, but AMPS, on the other hand, would call it "home-made" and models with "home-made" details traditionally tend to score lower than those festooned with aftermarket additions in their competitions. Weird, huh? -
Scratchbuilding vs. Kitbashing
Brett Barrow replied to Harry P.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I guess you wrote that before reading my full post, as that's exactly the example I give later as not scratch building. I said "nobody slights them for it", meaning that no one asserts that they're less of a modeler because they didn't scratch build 100% of every part on the model, or that judges dock points because they used existing parts. I'm all for giving credit where credit is due. quote "SCRATCH-BUILT models may incorporate parts from other kits, but these should be generally unrelated to their original identity, except for minor parts such as wheels, guns, etc. Models determined to be scratch-built must be entered in the proper scratch-built category. /quote That's exactly what I'm saying. Example - you need a Small Block Chevy with a Muncie 4-speed, but your kit engine has a Powerglide, so you - #1 - find an engine that has the correct transmission, chop it off and use it on your model. That's kit-bashing #2 - take a missle from an aircraft kit, and a mantlet from a tank kit, whatever you find that has a similar shape, cut and modify them, add some putty and styrene bits to create the correct transmission. Now that's scratch building. Neither part is recognizable in the finished model. -
Scratchbuilding vs. Kitbashing
Brett Barrow replied to Harry P.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
By this definition, wouldn't the models from the original Star Wars be considered kit-bashed? I think when you use and modify a kit part in a way for something it was not intended, that's scratch building. Kit parts have become your medium and your raw material. Taking a fan clutch and using it on a swamp cooler, that's scratch-building to me. You were able to look at an un-related part and see the potential in it. Are there plenty of far more impressive examples of scratch-building out there? Sure, but it's fundamentally the same thing. Scratch-builders use commercial fittings all the time, like Grandt Line or Tichy nuts and bolts, and nobody slights them for it, they see a part that fits the need for a detail on their model, and if you see a kit part that fits the need of a detail, then what's the difference? Taking 5 different car bodies, cutting them into 50 pieces and making a new car body out of them is kit bashing, because they were car bodies to start with, and they're still a car body. Is this more difficult and more impressive from a modeling standpoint than the other thing? Yes, totally, but who says kit-bashing isn't just as impressive or as difficult as scratch-building? I think it's all just semantics that we think that one is somehow superior to the other. Maybe we need to come up with a name that encapsulates both techniques, like, I don't know, calling it modeling? -
Munster Koach and Drag-U-La double kit
Brett Barrow replied to Brett Barrow's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
I didn't mean any disrespect to those out there who support their LHS, sarcasm is hard to convey across the internet. I work in a hobby shop, and I totally understand when some of our regulars buy expensive Japanese and Chinese armor and aircraft kits out of Japan or Hong Kong because they can get them cheaper, they still buy their paints and glues and supplies from us, and they still buy lower priced kits as well. Everyone has their limit on what they're willing to spend on a given kit. But buying kits from wherever is still supporting the hobby, and that can have a trickle-down effect on hobby shops, as I said, you might still buy paint and supplies from your LHS. -
Revell 1968 Hemi Dart - They're Finished
Brett Barrow replied to Len Carsner's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Now that's starting to look like something!!! I'd like to see a front tire with a little more sidewall, it's got a lot of rubber rake happening right now. A lot of the 1:1's ran the Jere Stahl tires, those things were pretty tall. -
Live long and build 'em all!!!
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Munster Koach and Drag-U-La double kit
Brett Barrow replied to Brett Barrow's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
That's kinda why I've gone through all the trouble of taking pics and scanning stuff, so people can look here first and make up their own minds. Seeing how plain white-box Blueprinter issues were going for $50+ and original "Graveyard Duo" boxings can go for almost $200, I don't think it's too bad, considering how nice the new accurate decals are. There are plenty of places selling for well under the $50 MSRP, only suckers pay retail, right? -
added October releases - 1:25 '55 Chevy Bel Air Convertible 1:25 '72 Olds Cutlass Supreme 2n1 1:25 Chi Town Hustler Charger Funny Car 1:25 '59 Ford Galaxie Skyliner (SSP)
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Not the TS, but I hope this helps - http://www.straightlinemodeler.org/research/dragsters/garlits/garmisc.htm
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crash proof motorcycle!!!
Brett Barrow replied to jbwelda's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Actually that was originally posted on a photography blog I read. It became legendary when Joe McNally made his version - -
crash proof motorcycle!!!
Brett Barrow replied to jbwelda's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
So fake! And that looooooong setup kills it's comedic value. No one would point out all that stuff unless they were going to fake the crash. Making fake crash videos is pretty much a requirment in any digital editing class these days, so there's tons of them out there. I prefer this one (not modeling related) -
Try brake fluid. It will strip most enamels, and it works on chrome by going all the way down to the gloss undercoat underneath the plating, unless it's satin chrome, which has no undercoat.
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How do YOU make castings of emblems and small parts?
Brett Barrow replied to impcon's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
I make what I call "Squash" molds. You take some epoxy putty (Apoxie Sculpt, Magic Sculpt, Milliput, etc) "squash" it on the detail you want to copy. Let it harden, then take plastic sprue and heat it over a flame until it mushrooms, then "squash" that into your epoxy putty mold. And presto! You've got a copy that you can trim off with a sharp blade. I'll be converting a 57 Bel Air to a 210 soon, and I'll show how to make copies of the window cranks and door levers when I convert the interior panels, look for a thread the start of next week. I also posted a link to a Japanese video on YouTube where the modeler makes similar molds out of 2-part Silicone putty and makes the copies with solder. Thread is here - http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=33454 -
Revell '68 Dodge Charger R/T (UPDATED 8/13/10)
Brett Barrow replied to TurboKitty's topic in WIP: Model Cars
The Lindberg Belvedere and Dodge 330's are Mr. Boyd's recommended Slant Sixes for stock applications. Both are in the current Lindberg line-up, as well as the Model-King run of Belvederes as mentioned. Since the series was only 1/25th, the Ross Gibson motor was not reviewed. -
Revell '68 Dodge Charger R/T (UPDATED 8/13/10)
Brett Barrow replied to TurboKitty's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Tim Boyd did a great series of engine articles in The Other Magazine a couple years ago, one installment was on Straight-Sixes, I'll have to dig up my copy to see what kits he recommended for Slant Sixes. The only one that pops to mind is the MPC Dodge Deora, but I can't remember if that's a good one or a bad one! -
Revell '68 Dodge Charger R/T (UPDATED 8/13/10)
Brett Barrow replied to TurboKitty's topic in WIP: Model Cars
No problem, I realized my mistake as soon as I wrote it and immediately edited it. That same issue of MCR has a '68 numbers-matching 383ci/330hp and they mention the "383 boasted the heads and intake from the 440 Magnum". There's several related threads on Mopar DG's and sites, all I'm saying is the myth had to start somewhere. The two intakes look identical in shape and design, and without knowing casting/part numbers or measuring the width would be near-impossible to tell apart. And to get back to the relevant topic, according to Paul Herd's "Charger, Road Runner and Super Bee Restoration Guide" all '68 B-body 383's and 440's would have been Turquoise. -
Revell '68 Dodge Charger R/T (UPDATED 8/13/10)
Brett Barrow replied to TurboKitty's topic in WIP: Model Cars
There are 2 383's, a B-block and an RB-block - oops, my bad, 383 RB's were '59-60 Chrysler only. I've got other references that mention the use of 440 intakes on 383's so there must be some merit to it. -
Munster Koach and Drag-U-La double kit
Brett Barrow replied to Brett Barrow's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
I've got some sprue shots up on Photobucket so you can view them hi-res (while my bandwidth limit holds out, at least!) First up is the Koach, will get the Drag-U-La up later. http://s612.photobucket.com/albums/tt205/barrowb98/Munsters%20Double%20Kit/Munster%20Koach/ Drag-U-La is up http://s612.photobucket.com/albums/tt205/barrowb98/Munsters%20Double%20Kit/DragULa/ -
Munster Koach and Drag-U-La double kit
Brett Barrow replied to Brett Barrow's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Mine will be a builder, too, and I would be disappointed if I paid the full $50 for this issue. The tires don't disappoint me that much though (the slicks at least), some folks complain that rubber tires eat the wheels, and some complain that the kit makers have been taking the trademarks off the sidewall - won't have to worry about either of those. The white plastic parts all look good and clean, but both chrome trees are very flashy in my example. I have a couple AMT rail dragsters that I may use for the front wheels and tires for the Drag-U-La, I think they'd be a good swap and be in keeping with the level of detail in the rest of the kit. I need to find donors for the Koach's front tires, they're the most disappointing of all the tires, I think the slicks will look good once assembled and painted.